Last post on Aug 17, 2013 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Ford Ranger
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#39 of 304 Re: 2002 Ford Ranger power loss [mullins5251]
Nov 06, 2006 (11:08 am)
dude, you need a cat converter, or a MAF meter. Both of those will cause the exact result you are seeing. Take a thermometer(non-contact) and check before and after the cat temps while the truck is running and warmed up. THere should be no more than a 50 degree difference from the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe. If there is, then the cat is done. If they are fine, then the truck is limiting itself electronically somehow. THis would send me the direction of the Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) and in a hurry. If neither of those 2 make a difference, save yourself some money and time and take it to a dealer. They can find it quickly if those don't work. Good Luck.
#40 of 304 Re: 88 Ford ranger [vinby1952]
Nov 06, 2006 (11:10 am)
Ignition module been changed?????
#41 of 304 Re: 88 Ford ranger [modanncnr]
Nov 06, 2006 (1:42 pm)
No not yet I replace the coil but still does the same thing
#42 of 304 Re: 88 Ford ranger [vinby1952]
Nov 06, 2006 (1:45 pm)
will this correct the problem, and where would it be located.
#43 of 304 Re: 88 Ford ranger [vinby1952]
Nov 07, 2006 (6:10 pm)
Also possibly a bad cat or fuel pump. Check your fuel pressure after it starts "casping for air"
As previous poster suggested, check the cat temps with a good non-contact thermometer.
#44 of 304 Re: 88 Ford ranger [vinby1952]
Nov 07, 2006 (9:21 pm)
the pump is in the tank, or yours is early enough that it may have a lift or electric booster pump in the frame rail, driver's side. I highly doubt it is fuel pressure, becuase once the pump goes bad, rarely does it just fire back up consistently. Usually it is good or bad, not half way in between. The Cat is located at the base of the header pipe on your truck. It may even be part of the header or collector assembly. You will need to get a good therm., one that you point a laser beam and it tells you the temp. THat is called a non-contact thermometer. Also be sure to check the ignition module, MAF or MAP and do yourself a favor, go to alldata.com and get some flow chart testing procedures for a warm, dying problem, followed by a crank, no-start until cool. You should get some help there.
#45 of 304 1998 Ranger 3L No Power
Jan 16, 2007 (9:47 pm)
My '98 ranger,105K, has no power to go up hills even unloaded. I end up in third gear doing about 55 if I run at 4000rpm otherwise it's even worse, any ideas what could be wrong?
#46 of 304 Ranger intermittant power loss etc.
Jan 17, 2007 (5:32 pm)
I have an 86 4x4 that my wife picked up for a couple of hundred dollars. I am amazed at the quality of this truck....far better than my S-10s. Anyway, it has a 2.9L engine that idles and runs fine around the farm, but on the hiway it starts out great, then will stutter and lose power, then recover just as fast. When I feel the power drop, a push on the accelerator will snap it back to life. This is annoying as I can't maintain a constant speed. I am either losing power or recovering. It seems to do this mostly around mid throttle, but wide open doesn't seem as peppy as I think it should. Sometimes during acceleration, it will lose some power, and the exhaust tone will change. There is no engine light, so every time it acts up, I grab my code reader and check it. No faults are found. I did replace the computer because it showed a constant A/C fault and I don't have A/C. I read earlier that I should check the Cat and MAF sensor, are there any other checks I can do?
#47 of 304 Re: 94 Ranger transmission shifts too often [texaschuck]
Jan 17, 2007 (7:08 pm)
You could try replacing the front seal on the transmission.
#48 of 304 Re: 1998 Ranger 3L No Power [dogtank]
Jan 18, 2007 (5:40 am)
Yeah she needs a tuneup.. Change your plugs, wires, and fuel filter, and make sure you put platinum plugs back in, you dont have get the ones that are 3-4 dollars each just get the autolite platinum with the single ground. Then I would run a couple cans of Chevron fuel system cleaner through it with a couple tanks of gas. Wal-Mart has it for about $6/bottle. Its a black bottle and has the word TECHRON on it in white letters. Its the best you can buy over the counter (so says an independent company). Then after you do this initially, I would run one bottle every 2-3 tanks. I have 111,000 on my 3.0L and it still runs strong and I do what I just recommended to you. You might also try and find a spray can of FUEL INJECTOR cleaner. And spray it down your intake to clean the deposits out of there as well. I spray it right on the butterfly so that some will go through the idle air control valve, but it will start to die, so then ya have hit the throttle, and it will suck the rest through the butterfly and into the intake. Dont spray more than 30sec at a time. It can overheat your catlytic converter. Hope this helps. You are probably lookin at about $80 for just parts on the tune up.