Last post on Aug 17, 2013 at 5:16 PM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#152 of 304 2008 Ranger??????
Jan 06, 2008 (10:11 am)
I'm thinking about ordering a 2008 2wd Ford Ranger with 4.0 & auto trans. Can I get any feed back from owners of newer Rangers w/4.0. I was also thinking about a (PLEASE DON"T LAUGH) Chevy. I've only owned Ford trucks but I got upset with my Excursion when the V-10 blew a spark plug out of the head. I'm a retired GM employee and can get a better discount on GM then Ford. I've been on the Chevy website and seems like everyone is talking about having to replace the cylinder head on their I5 & I4 engines. Any feed back, good or bad, will be a HUGE help.
#153 of 304 Help with a code
Jan 09, 2008 (4:09 pm)
I have a 99 ranger 4x4 with a 4.O litre engine.
It started missing the other day, it is giving a code 171( bank 1 too lean) and says cylinder 2 is misfiring.
Is this a bad injector on the #2 cylinder?
I was going to switch the #2 injector to the other side and see if the problem followed till I saw you have to pull the entire intake off and with injectors being as expensive as they are I don't want to change it if I don't have too.
Any help with this is greatly appriciated.
#154 of 304 Re: 4.0L engines [mickeymouse2]
Jan 10, 2008 (6:07 pm)
I've owned this truck scince new, and i've gone up against a few other rangers of the same yr and same options...its alot faster when new you couldn't stop pedal down on dry pavement and get em to spin over or pull next to a 4.3 S-10 and spank em in such a way that they are left wondering if you dropped a V8 in the confines of the V6 engine bay..it idles like its been cammed its low end torque feels like its been cammed. my neighbor down the street has the excact truck same options with 4wheel drive and auto just like mine, he's driven it..now he wants his as fast...
#155 of 304 Re: 4.0L engines [molive_35]
Jan 10, 2008 (8:24 pm)
Ok I see where your coming from now on the power issue now that you have explained it better. All you have had is an engine change so I doubt that the PCM has been modified with a power chip. There is a chance that some upgrade was done on that motor you now have. If it idles like it has a cam upgrade and now you have a comparison vehicle that has less power. You probably have a cam upgrade in your motor. To my knowledge, even though various years used the same engine, there isn't suppose to be any improvement in power in the newer stock engines. Hey, you lucked out....enjoy!
#156 of 304 Re: High RPM [sammy18]
Jan 16, 2008 (8:04 am)
I have had the same problem for a while now. But now when i accelerate under load the engine stutters severely. The engine also stutters while in third gear at about 35mph.
Still looking for answers myself.
#157 of 304 Re: High RPM [sammy18]
Jan 16, 2008 (8:48 am)
Sounds like you have a bad TPS(throttle positioning sensor. Here is how you check it. KOEO key on engine off. Verify 5volt referance at sensor. Looking at the back of the 3 wire plug, this is what each wire is for. 5v TP signal PCM(-). Location is mounted on throttle body on the other side of you throttle linkage. As throttle linkage moves, it turns this potentiometer. Works similar to a dimmer switch. All this testing is done with the key on engine off.
This should be checked with a digital graphing meter but a DVM can be used.
If you have your 5v referance, and ground, then check the middle wire for voltage while the throttle position is in idle position engine off. The voltage should be between .7volts to 1.1volts. While still conected move the throttle by hand smoothly. You should read a smooth increase in voltage at the middle wire (tp signal) When you reach WOT wide open throttle the voltage should be about 4.5volts. (engine off, key on) Understand that there is an allowable differance in referance voltage and ground of .2-.3 volts depending on the equipment being used. So if your referance voltage is 5.2 volts or 4.8 volts, thats still ok.
While in the idle position if your reading higher voltage than 1.1v, then your PCM thinks your demanding additional throttle. Some TPS are adjustable with slotted hold down screws, but most likely your tps is defective. Good luck, get back to me and repost.
#158 of 304 01 Ranger 4.0L Idle issue?
Jan 23, 2008 (8:08 pm)
Hey All! I have a little issue with my idle. Here's whats happening; the engine starts just fine when cold, the idle is at around 1050 rpm's then after about 20 seconds or so it drops to around 750 r's this is normal. Now that the engine is warmed up, like after the ride to work (20 miles or so) shut it off and everything is fine until break time (2 hrs. later) start the engine and it returns to high idle and then about 2 seconds later the idle drops to about 100 rpm's (barely running!) but doesn't actually stall, this usually lasts about 2 to 3 seconds before correcting itself and returning to normal idle speed. This has been happening since around 90'000 mi. Truck now has 97000 on it. I'd appreciate any insight anyone has to offer on this annoying little "issue." Thank You.
#159 of 304 Re: 01 Ranger 4.0L Idle issue? [dozer02]
Jan 24, 2008 (4:24 am)
Sounds like a bad IAC valve [idle air control valve]and or build up of carbon in the throttle body intake. If there are no trouble codes, this is what I would check first.
#160 of 304 Re: My Little Ranger [mmuradian]
Feb 08, 2008 (6:36 pm)
i have a 94 4wd 5-spd 4.0. i just replaced the spark plugs and wires and i saw a good jump in gas mileage. i was getting 15 mpg city before and now i am getting 18.5 city. not too shabby for a older 4wd.