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SUVs Toyota RAV4 Toyota RAV4 Maintenance and Repair
765 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 9:40 AM
You are in the Toyota RAV4 Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
| In other cars (like my Maxima) I'm use to resting my foot on the gas pedal and having to press on it to accelerate (duh!). However I can't "rest" my foot on my 2006 RAV4 gas pedal because it provides little resistance and the pedal is too easily depressed. I have to restrain my foot from pushing down on it! Does anyone else have the same problem and is there a way to adjust the tension of the gas pedal? | |
How many RAV4 owners have found the tailgate configuration to be a problem? It seems to me that in close quarters like dropping visiting dignitaries off at the airport, it would be a hassle. Wouldn't the opposite side opening have been better for use in the US? Does the new proposed liftgate configuration for the 2007 CRV give Honda a better setup in this regard? Sorry if this discussion has already been beaten to death. I'm newly interested in purchase of a smaller AWD SUV in 2007, and I haven't previously looked at the CRV or RAV4. Thanks. Ralph
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Replying to: ralph9 (Aug 10, 2006 10:21 am) |
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just bought an 06 rav4 and noticed that inside of windshield fogs up on left and right edges. took it back to the dealership's service mgr and he said they've seen the problems w/ cars before and it's due to dashboard needing to cure????? he said it could take up to 6 months to clear. i asked him if it was a problem w/ new rav4s, he said no. so i asked them to replace the dash, he said it wasn't advisable. i told him it only happens when i have the AC on and it takes 2-3 days before it shows up. he said it was film w/ chemicals emitting from the dash. i asked to set up an appt w/ a toyota rep. i think there may be a leak somewhere. anybody out there have any ideas. thanks in advance.. 
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Replying to: lilval (Aug 12, 2006 7:29 am) |
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i'm in northern cal and it's been hot out here lately. so it's not cold at all. i did notice that the right side is not fogging up as much as the left maybe it is "outgassing" like mentioned at earlier post... i just never heard of it.
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Replying to: lilval (Aug 13, 2006 9:56 am)
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Replying to: gregorylynn (Aug 14, 2006 9:41 am) Unlike more traditional designs which HEAT and dehumidify the airflow to the interior surface of the windshield these systems will often supply airflow to the windshield which is 20F COLDER than your temperature setpoint. Most systems, when you use the defrost/defog/demist mode, full or partial, will supply HEATED airflow to the windshield on the assumption that the driver has a firm basis for the use of the defrost/defog/demist mode, "the damn windshield has condensation on the interior surface". For some reason unknown at this time, NipponDenso, Denso US, seems to think it's satifactory to supply only COLD dehumidified airflow in this mode, even in the dead of winter when interior windshield fogging is most likely and therefore potentially the most dangerous to forward vision. So, do NOT, NEVER use, continuously, either of the defrost/defog/demist modes if you have a Toyota or Lexus with the automatic climate control system. In the above case you may have some sort of system malfunction wherein a small level of system airflow, COOL system airflow, is "leaking" to the interior windshield surface when the system is in normal operating, cooling, mode. Laying a thick towel over the windshield outlets is likely the easiest way to determine if that is the case since the airlow might be low/slow enough as to be undetectable via skin surface "feeling".
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Replying to: wwest (Aug 14, 2006 9:57 am) Does anyone kmow if you have the manual system and select defrost do we get warm/hot air to the windshield?
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Replying to: jimd4 (Aug 14, 2006 2:50 pm) If your manual "setpoint" was on or near the cooling side when you switched to defrost you will get "COOL" defrost/defog/demist airflow. And in fairly short order if you didn't previously have the A/C engaged, it is now, and the airlow to the windshield will get even COOLER. But at least it will be dehumidified airflow....eventually....as soon as the evaporator vane surface temperature declines to the dewpoint of the incoming (fresh) airflow and only if the blower speed it low enough for the incoming airflow to be cooled to dewpoint.... But what if the dewpoint of the incoming airflow is so low the A/C is ineffective at dehumidification....?? DENSO: "Gee, I guess we didn't think of that...but we do disable the A/C if the OAT is below 35F...." The manual doesn't tell you this, at least the last Camry manual I've seen, but when you need to defog/demist the interior surface of the windshield turn the heating and blower level all the way up and then switch to the defrost/defog/demist mode. If that happens to be overkill then so be it, no harm, no foul, you can now re-adjust, moderate, the effects at will. The RX300 series has a c-best option, two actually, wherein the "link" coupling the operation of the A/C to defrost/defog/demist mode can be severed. The second on allows you to indefinitely disable the A/C until the next time you turn it on yourself using the button. Prior to discovering the c-best options I simply disconnected the A/C compressor clutch wire during the winter months. In my 1992 LS400 I installed a switch that increased the resistance of the interior air temperature sensor. Before I activated the defrost/defog/demist mode I flipped the switch to make the climate control ECU think the cabin was cold, very COLD, and that resulted in lots of HEAT and high blower speed as I switched modes. Later versions, my 2001 RX300, have added another level of digital signal processing that doesn't allow sudden/quick changes in certain sensor output readings. But then the RX has a "twist" dial to set the temperature so I just give it a quick clockwise spin. |
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