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Honda Fit Cargo Space

118 messages, Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 7:47 PM
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Replying to: jonniedee (Apr 25, 2006 7:46 am) |
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Replying to: jsuess (Apr 24, 2006 1:21 pm) It's gradual. In the rear compartment (back seats up), at the narrowest point between the wheel wells, there's just over 40" of width. But about half the wheel well section is wider, about 42.5", gradually increasing toward the rear. The last few inches of the rear, with no wheel well at all, is almost 51" wide. Similarly, as you go up above the wheel well, width increases in stages. At about 13" high, you have about 45" of width. At about 23" high, you have almost 49" of width. Then width starts to decrease again as the car slopes in toward the roof. |
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Replying to: fitsearch (Apr 25, 2006 10:27 am) What are all of the dimensions for the cargo area? In particular, what is the depth of the cargo area, both at its widest point (between the base of the seats and the hatchback) and the narrowest (between the top of the seats to the hatchback). The depth of the cargo area (seats down, along the floor) is about 55-56" (plus possibly some overhang if you and your passenger aren't so long-legged that you need to move the front seats all the way back). As you elevate from that point, the measurement will vary depending on the position of the front seats. With the front seats all the way back with a normal slight recline, you have about 52" at the least deep point, so that's about worst case. Also, what is the height from the floor of the cargo area to the top of the seats? About 30" to the top of the front seats. About 40" of height overall through most of the cabin. The remaining dimension, width, is just over 40" at the narrowest point between the wheel wells. In front of the wheel wells, it mostly varies between about 45" and 48" if measuring ground surface, though you can make use of a little extra overhang there as well. It's actually about 50" between the rear doors armrest-to-armrest.
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Replying to: anotherscott (May 06, 2006 12:32 pm) I have already used this space to transport my 22" telescope (that's the width of the mirror), plus ladder and accessories and I only filled up half the volume at most. What a terrific vehicle. |
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Is there any way to fit a bike into the Fit without removing the front wheel? God, how I hate removing the front wheel... don't ask me why.
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Replying to: rosenatti (May 07, 2006 10:48 am)
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Replying to: backy (May 07, 2006 12:39 pm) My road bike, a 56 cm crit frame (short wheelbase), measures 65" with the front wheel attached. With the front wheel removed, it's about 53" from the front of the fork tips to the rear-most part of the rear wheel. Despite a longer wheelbase and a fairly typical 20" frame, my mountain bike is about the same overall length. In both cases, they are happy when the fit seats are in utility mode and the front wheel (of the bike!) is removed. With the front wheel attached? No way...
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Replying to: nemichael (May 07, 2006 1:59 pm) Or you could take the front wheel off! A fancy bike like that must have quick-release levers on the front wheel, yes? |
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Replying to: nemichael (May 07, 2006 1:59 pm) |
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Replying to: rosenatti (May 07, 2006 2:07 pm) In a variation of Backy's suggestion, the Fit might be able to swallow your bike with the front wheel still attached if you use utility mode, angle the frame to make the best use of the cargo area (the hypotenuse of the length/width triangle), and turn the front wheel so it is perpendicular to the frame. The cargo area is certainly tall enough, but the bike would be rather unstable in this contortion. Put a blanket between the bars and the top tube in order to keep the bars from slamming into the top tube if the wheel "drops" from the upright position. Personally, I expect to just remove the front wheel from the bike each time I use the Fit bring me to the trail head. However, I can understand how some folks are uncomfortable removing and replacing the front wheel before each ride. There are two things you can do that might alleviate your fears: 1) Take some time and get to know the interface between the wheel and the fork. Get a feel for how tight the quick release needs to be before it is closed. Practice releasing and reattaching the brake cable if needed to remove the wheel. 2) If it makes you feel better, most non-custom bikes sold these days have a retainer lip that prevents an improperly installed wheel from inadvertently coming off of the fork. The downside here is that the quick release function is somewhat impaired. The knurled nut opposite the level has to be backed-off a few turns to release the wheel. This is a major hassle during a race, but not too big a deal for most folks.
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