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Honda Fit Maintenance

153 messages,  Last post on Oct 02, 2009 at 1:19 PM

You are in the Honda Fit Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Honda Fit, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Oil, Suspension, Transmission, Hatchback


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#84 of 153
Changing Oil by morphthecat
Dec 01, 2007 (4:21 pm)
Reply
Just bought a 2008 orange Sport Fit.
Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty
adamant about using their" Honda premium grade 5W20, displaying THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)".
Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the
dealer every time?
Thx for any advice...
#85 of 153
Honda oil Question by morphthecat
Dec 01, 2007 (9:28 pm)
Reply
Just bought a 2008 orange Sport Fit.
Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty
adamant using their" premium grade 5W20, displaying
THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)".
Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the
dealer every time?
Thx for any advice...
#86 of 153
How to reset Tire Pressure Monitor Warning Light? by boord1
Dec 02, 2007 (6:03 pm)
Reply
I bought my 2008 Fit Sport yesterday and while driving home from the dealership the "TPMS" warning light came on.
 
When I arrived home I checked the tire pressures which were: 42,38,40,46. This was after waiting 1.5 hrs for the dealer to prep the car!
 
Anybody know how to reset the warning light so I don't have to drive 130 miles (RT) to the dealer? Thanks in advance!!
#87 of 153
Re: FIT Dust and Pollen or Cabin Filter [kagedude] by blackej
Dec 05, 2007 (8:55 am)
Reply

Replying to: kagedude (Oct 23, 2007 11:05 am)

Okay, a dumb question. How does one remove the glove box?
#88 of 153
Re: FIT Dust and Pollen or Cabin Filter [blackej] by kagedude
Dec 05, 2007 (10:16 pm)
Reply

Replying to: blackej (Dec 05, 2007 8:55 am)

While the glove box is open and if you look on the sides, you'll notice that the glove box is held in by a spongy block/stopper. I usually just press the sides while pulling gently to let the stopper through. The glove box just unlatches so you can see behind it. It doesn't actually come off.
 
Hope that helps.
#89 of 153
Re: Honda oil Question [morphthecat] by davethecarnut
Dec 05, 2007 (10:48 pm)
Reply

Replying to: morphthecat (Dec 01, 2007 9:28 pm)

any name brand 5W20 oil (Pennzoil, Castrol, etc)
#90 of 153
Re: FIT Dust and Pollen or Cabin Filter [kagedude] by blackej
Dec 07, 2007 (2:29 pm)
Reply

Replying to: kagedude (Dec 05, 2007 10:16 pm)

Thanks CageDude. I did notice those spongy stoppers, but I was afraid to break the glove box door. I did it today and it worked like a charm. Thanks!
#91 of 153
Re: oil [flyersfan] by f0rl0rn
Dec 12, 2007 (7:46 am)
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Replying to: flyersfan (Nov 29, 2007 7:17 am)

I don't have a fit yet but I think I might be able to give you a good answer to Oil Viscosity.
 
~This is not bearing in mind extreme weather conditions~
 
The newer the car (lower mileage) the thinner the oil you want. It has to do with correct oil pressure and protectionswithin the Piston/Cyclinder.
 
A newer engine has less room between the piston and cyclinder wall. A thicker oil will not squeeze effectively into the small gap and therefore not protect your components as effectively as a thinner oil.
 
As the engine ages normal wear and tear widen the gap between pitson and cyclinder and therefore a thicker oil is necessary to 1.) Properly Protect and 2.) Maintain Proper Oil Pressure.
 
So at that point you begin increasing the thickness of the oil, i.e. 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, etc.
 
Not sure how or why you would be getting better gas mileage with a thicker oil but I believe engine life is more important than gas mileage. If the car is not worned down quickly due to racing, long change intervals, overheating etc. I have always heard around 75K is the time to jump up to the 2nd Tier, accroding to what you beginning Viscosity is. I don't know of any cars starting above 5W20 from go but assume some are out there, mayb trucks/vans, not sure.
 
I think there are a lot of myths regarding oil that are out there and it takes quite awhile to understadn it since most of us are not engine builders/lab scientists or engineers working with it.
 
Good luck. There is alos much debate between Petrol vs. Synth Oil. My only recommmendation on that is do not follow the Synth oil change interval. I would not exceed you manufacturers recommendation. And if you change your own oil I would get familiar with the timing based on color/smell.
 
Anyone feel free to correct me on anything I wrote. I am not an expert.
#92 of 153
Re: Owners manual vagueness [fitluver] by f0rl0rn
Dec 12, 2007 (7:50 am)
Reply

Replying to: fitluver (May 17, 2007 7:22 pm)

I'm guessing the Fit is an Inline Engine which makes me think it would be a chain and not a belt. Timing Belts a re usually for "Vee" engines, V6, V8, etc.
 
I think chains are better. They are easier to replace and replaced less often. Chains take longer to stretch than a rubber belt. The only downside is a chain is more expesive than a rubber belt.
#93 of 153
Cabin Filter by suzecruise
Dec 26, 2007 (11:35 am)
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I went to the Honda dealership to get my 30,000 mile check-up. They said it would cost $245. I looked in the Owner's Manual to see what the 30,000 mile check-up covered. Not much listed in the manual. Anyway, on my odometer the code said B 1,2.
So, that means oil change, tires rotated, air filter and cabin filter changed. It costs me about $80 for an oil change and tire rotation....so why are they charging an additional $165?
 
I asked the Service Manager how much an air filter costs.....$20, how much to install...no charge. Cabin filter.......$136!!! WHAT? I told him to change the air filter but not the cabin filter.
 
I went on-line and found a cabin filter for $20. When I picked up my Fit, I asked the Service Manager how much the cabin filter would cost......$60. I asked him why it was so much more expensive than on-line. He said he didn't know. He said if it was an after market part it wouldn't fit. Which I really question.
 
Any thoughts or insights?
 
Thanks,
Suzecruise

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