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Honda Fit Real World MPG

2432 messages,  Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 4:50 AM

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What is this discussion about? Honda Fit, Fuel Efficiency (MPG), Hatchback


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#2355 of 2432
Re: [seaf] by wistlo
Mar 20, 2009 (8:43 am)
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Replying to: seaf (Mar 12, 2009 12:54 pm)

The tires' maximum pressure is 44 PSI cold, so 38 is well under that rating. Older Hondas ran with 30 and 32 PSI recommendations for tires whose maximum rated pressure was 36 PSI, so the margin of error with these babies is larger.
 
Low profile tires (for the Fit Sport, 55 series, meaning the tire is 55% as tall as it is wide) I suspect are more susceptible to damage from striking discontinuities in the road surface. The older Civic has same width (185) but are 65 series, and those tires soak up bumps with more compliance. The lower profile does give the Fit lightning-fast, go-kart like steering response. It is a true pleasure to drive.
 
We have studiously avoided the legions of potholes in post-Katrina New Orleans. I suspect the damage was done by a large unexpected gouge on I-65 N just south of Cincinnati. (Middle lane, left side).
#2356 of 2432
Re: Black 5psd. Sport MT [rterry] by pmeyers
Mar 20, 2009 (10:56 am)
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Replying to: rterry (Mar 20, 2009 7:03 am)

The computer also purports to report an AVERAGE MPG. Of course the instantaneous MPG varies all over the map. My quarrel is with the purported AVG MPG reading which, in my vehicle is around 20% higher than measured MPG. As I have reported earlier, there is no adjustment and Honda really doesn't care about the inaccuracy of this measurement.
 
BTW, my measured MPG for the first 4,000 miles or so has been roughly 36 mpg with 70% city/suburban, 30% freeway mileage.
#2357 of 2432
09 Fit Sport Report by ak_fit
Mar 20, 2009 (7:49 pm)
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About 5800 miles on 09 Fit Sport Auto in Alaska. MPG 33 using math. Computer is about 20% higher. Since Nov I've run Michelin Xi i2 snow tires (awesome) on Civic steel rims purchased form the Honda dealer for something like $55 each. Size 185 / 60 15". The Alaska cold and road conditions may influence mpg
#2358 of 2432
Re: Driving Technique For Maximum Mileage [cmobi] by bobw3
Mar 24, 2009 (7:42 am)
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Replying to: cmobi (Mar 10, 2009 9:25 pm)

Some of your MPG "tips" don't sound too right to me. Everything I've read and experienced indicates that the best MPG will come from a constant speed on flat terrain, not by hard accelarations followed by periods of coasting.
 
And if the effort of going uphill was offsetted by coasting downhill, then you might want to ask a biker if it's easier to pedal 10 miles on flat ground or up and down hills...they'll tell you that it takes much less energy to go a given distance on flat ground than up and down hills. And likewise for a car it takes more energy to go up and down hills. It's the "objects in motion tend to stay in motion" theory, so once you have a vehicle at a certain speed, it doesn't take much energy to maintain that speed.
 
What you may want to try to test this is drive a couple of hundred miles on a flat highway. Once at a constant 55mph and the other doing your accelaration/coasting method and then manually calculate your MPG and report back.
#2359 of 2432
Re: Driving Technique For Maximum Mileage [bobw3] by huisj
Mar 25, 2009 (8:37 am)
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Replying to: bobw3 (Mar 24, 2009 7:42 am)

The point is though that when coasting down a hill with the car in gear, the fuel injectors shut off. The engine is kept turning by the car moving, but no gasoline is being used during that time.
  
I've seen it firsthand with other cars too--the best tank I ever had with my old Focus hatchback was 39 mpg driving for a whole day in the mountains in Colorado. Coasting downhill with it in 3rd or 4th, I could go for miles at a time without touching the gas pedal at all, and it definitely seemed to outweigh the extra gas used during short bursts of climbing.
#2360 of 2432
Re: Driving Technique For Maximum Mileage [huisj] by kipk
Mar 26, 2009 (2:16 am)
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Replying to: huisj (Mar 25, 2009 8:37 am)

Common sense and logic dictate that if we encounter equal length and degree of inclines and declines on a trip, the mileage would be the same as running on a flat road.
 
Our "Scan Gauge" is in our Pilot. While using cruise control, on flat ground at 60 mpg, we get 28-30 mpg depending on the very slight variations in road, wind and so forth. . On a long steep uphill grade, the mileage may drop to 12 mpg and the transmission has found it's way back to 3rd gear. Going down the other side, maintaining the same speed, the mileage may show 9999 mpg, as the default. Indicating we are getting more than 100 mpg. Transmission may have stayed in 5th, or grade logic may have geared down to 4th.
 
In the case of these steep grades, common sense says that the gravity we fight going up, helps us when going down. If it was only 100 mpg going down, and 12 mpg up, the pencil average for the 2 would be 56 mpg. Which is much better than flat ground driving.
 
On rolling hills, the mpg may show 22 up and 54 going down. Pencil Average 38 mpg. Still better than flat ground. But not as good as the steep terrain.
 
These 2 examples indicate the best mileage occurs with the steepest grades.
 
All that looks good on the "Instant MPG" gauge and on paper. But switching back to the "Trip MPG" is a reality check. It doesn't reflect that great mileage.
 
I do not understand why !
 
Fact is, that in real world, the best mileage is achieved with a steady foot, or cruise, on flat ground at lower speeds. (55-60 mph). Worse mileage with the steepest terrain. At the end of the trip/day, the SG and calculator agree with this.
 
It has to do with math and things way over my head.
 
Kip
#2361 of 2432
Re: Driving Technique For Maximum Mileage [kipk] by bobw3
Mar 26, 2009 (8:46 am)
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Replying to: kipk (Mar 26, 2009 2:16 am)

Some math errors in your post:
"If it was only 100 mpg going down, and 12 mpg up, the pencil average for the 2 would be 56 mpg." You're calculating your MPG wrong.
 
If you drove 100 miles uphill at 12mpg that equals 8.3 gallons of gas used.
If you drove 100 miles downhill at 100mpg that equals 1 gal used.
So for the 200 miles driven you used 9.3 gal of gas and 200/9.3 = 21.5mpg average, not 56mpg average.
 
Or best case and you use zero gallons on the 100 miles of downhill, then for the 200 miles you used 8.3 gallons, or 24.1mpg average over the 200 miles
 
It's a common MPG calculation flaw. That if you drive 1/2 the miles at 20mpg and 1/2 the miles at 40mpg then your average MPG is 30...wrong because it's miles per gallon, not gallons per mile.
 
Now if you use on gallon of gas at 20mpg and then drive the next gallon of gas at 40mpg, then your average MPG will be 30mpg because for the 1 gal at 20mpg you'll have driven 20 miles and then the next gallon you'll have driven 40 miles, which equals 60 miles using 2 gal which equals 30mpg.
 
Just remember that MPG stands for Miles Per Gallons and not Gallons Per Mile.
 
Bottom line is that if you're only getting 12mpg on the uphills even if you shut the car off on the downhills you're still only achieving 24mpg average, which is much worse then a steady 55mph on flat terrain.
#2362 of 2432
Re: Driving Technique For Maximum Mileage [kipk] by wistlo
Mar 26, 2009 (8:53 am)
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Replying to: kipk (Mar 26, 2009 2:16 am)

It's not math as much as the first and second laws of thermodynamics.
 
First law dictates that one many not create or destroy energy, only transfer it. Hill-climbing raises the car's potential energy that is converted back into kinetic energy upon descent.
 
Second law says these processes must incur some energy loss to the outside world. For a car, wind resistance, friction, noise, heat from brakes, cooling system, exhaust are among these irreversible losses. (Hybrids achieve better mileage by capturing and storing energy that would have been dissipated by braking or rolling losses).
 
A roller coaster illustrates the first law: speeds up going downhill as potential turns into kinetic energy (momentum), then slows again on climbing as kinetic energy is stored as potential.
 
In cars, the efficiency of conversion of fuel to energy varies with load. Generally, lower power and steady-state (i.e., no change in power) yields higher efficiency. An engine running faster faces higher losses from larger volumes of exhaust, shorter power stroke duration, gearing loss in lower gears, greater heat transfer from combustion products to coolant and exhaust, etc. This translates into lower efficiency.
 
It is possible but unlikely that an engine performs better at higher load than what is required for steady-state cruising. For that case, the power-then-coast method would improve mileage.
 
But in general, given that no net energy is gained or lost from the inclines, wind and rolling resistance do not vary significantly from flat, the lower efficiency of the typical power plant on inclines will translate into lower mileage on hills.
#2363 of 2432
Trip to San Diego by byron2
Apr 08, 2009 (9:06 pm)
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Hi Everyone:
 
Just completed a road trip from our home on the San Francisco Peninsula to San Diego and back. The Sport Auto Fit worked very well as a freeway cruiser - even better than I thought it would.
 
On the way down, with three of us in the car, we averaged 39.7 (computer) despite going 80-85 mph on Interstate 5. Driving around LA and the Palmdale desert, I was pleasantly surprised to get just under 42, despite climbing a few mountain passes up to about 4k'. I did not baby it.
 
On the way home on highway 101 we got about 37. A beautiful time to drive through California. All green with wild flowers everywhere.
 
Byron
#2364 of 2432
Re: Driving Technique For Maximum Mileage [wistlo] by kipk
Apr 09, 2009 (3:33 am)
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Replying to: wistlo (Mar 26, 2009 8:53 am)

Thanks bobw3 and wistlo. More understandable now.

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