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Chrysler Town & Country: Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

156 messages,  Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 7:02 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chrysler Town and Country, Chrysler, Engine, Van


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#147 of 156
Re: Chrysler [mswann1] by crisismp
Sep 22, 2009 (9:52 am)
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Replying to: mswann1 (Mar 31, 2007 4:37 pm)

Hi Guys,
I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2
#148 of 156
Re: Chrysler [crisismp] by xwesx
Sep 22, 2009 (12:08 pm)
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Replying to: crisismp (Sep 22, 2009 9:52 am)

I am not sure if you stated this already, but did you replace the plug wires? If not, I recommend doing so. If you have replaced them, the problem is likely in the ignition module. It sounds like poor spark. You should be able to check resistance on both of those items (plug wires and ignition module) with a multimeter.
 
I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary!
#149 of 156
Re: Chrysler [crisismp] by crisismp
Sep 22, 2009 (2:34 pm)
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yeah i changed the plug wires i just want to make sure how would i connect the multimeter to test
#150 of 156
Re: Chrysler [crisismp] by xwesx
Sep 22, 2009 (6:38 pm)
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Replying to: crisismp (Sep 22, 2009 2:34 pm)

I have not done it myself, but here are the instructions in my Haynes manual. Actually, reading it, it sounds like the ignition coil (not module, as I had said) is likely the culprit because two cylinders (one on each side of the engine) are paired on each coil. As such, you may have one bad coil in the ignition coil. Here goes:
 
On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.
 
1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
 
And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification:
 
First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right:
 
1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6
2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4
3. B+
4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5
 
The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus:
 
315
642
 
Ignition coil resistance specifications:
Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms 70 to 80 degrees F
Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms 70 to 80 degrees F
#151 of 156
Re: Chrysler [xwesx] by crisismp
Sep 25, 2009 (6:41 pm)
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Replying to: xwesx (Sep 22, 2009 6:38 pm)

thanks for the info i ended up changing the ignition coil and it still burned up the spark plugs then i took it to auto zone and they pluged into the ecu to check my check engine and found that my egr and my 6 fuel injector was bad so i changed them both and got another fuel injector since the othe plug was burning still nothing my car is like a roller coaster bouncing all over the place and now some times stalling any other ideas
#152 of 156
Re: Chrysler [mswann1] by silky2003
Oct 07, 2009 (11:03 am)
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Replying to: mswann1 (Mar 31, 2007 4:37 pm)

I have a 1996 town & country.
I replaced the starter, cam and crank sensor, fuel pump and both Pcm's and it still will not start, and also replaced the coil pack.
Any other suggestions.
#153 of 156
Re: Chrysler [silky2003] by xwesx
Oct 07, 2009 (11:11 am)
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Replying to: silky2003 (Oct 07, 2009 11:03 am)

What does it do?
#154 of 156
Re: Chrysler [silky2003] by srs_49
Oct 08, 2009 (3:01 am)
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Replying to: silky2003 (Oct 07, 2009 11:03 am)

I'm with xwesx. Tell us what it does do.
 
Does it crank? Does it try to run and then just dies? Do you have spark at any/all of the plugs? Do you have fuel flow into the fuel injectors (that is, is the fuel pump working)? Was it running fine one day, then just suddenly decided not to start the next?
 
Tell us a bit more about the vehicle? How many miles? What engine? Any previous history of a problem like this?
#155 of 156
Re: Chrysler [srs_49] by silky2003
Oct 08, 2009 (6:29 am)
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Replying to: srs_49 (Oct 08, 2009 3:01 am)

My Van Has 197,000 miles on it. It has a 3.3 V6 Engine. The engine cranks but will not start. It is not getting any spark. Like I said I change the coil pack, crank and cam sensors, Fuel Pump. The engine is getting fuel. I replaced Both PCM's but I replace them with used ones from the junk yard. Before I replaced both pcm's the van only had a problem with the starter.
#156 of 156
Re: Chrysler [silky2003] by srs_49
Oct 09, 2009 (7:02 am)
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Replying to: silky2003 (Oct 08, 2009 6:29 am)

OK - thanks for the additional information.
 
Unfortunately, I can't tell you where to go from here. I assume the PCM (ECU) is getting +12V?
 
I had the 3.3L in our '94 DC, but never had any problems with the ignition, so never had to replace or troubleshoot the parts you've already replaced.

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