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Chrysler Town & Country: Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

156 messages, Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 7:02 AM
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Replying to: mswann1 (Mar 31, 2007 4:37 pm) I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2
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Replying to: crisismp (Sep 22, 2009 9:52 am) I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary! |
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yeah i changed the plug wires i just want to make sure how would i connect the multimeter to test
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Replying to: crisismp (Sep 22, 2009 2:34 pm) On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder. 1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack. 4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications. 5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications. And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification: First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right: 1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6 2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4 3. B+ 4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5 The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus: 315 642 Ignition coil resistance specifications: Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms
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Replying to: xwesx (Sep 22, 2009 6:38 pm) |
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Replying to: mswann1 (Mar 31, 2007 4:37 pm) I replaced the starter, cam and crank sensor, fuel pump and both Pcm's and it still will not start, and also replaced the coil pack. Any other suggestions. |
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Replying to: silky2003 (Oct 07, 2009 11:03 am) |
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Replying to: silky2003 (Oct 07, 2009 11:03 am) Does it crank? Does it try to run and then just dies? Do you have spark at any/all of the plugs? Do you have fuel flow into the fuel injectors (that is, is the fuel pump working)? Was it running fine one day, then just suddenly decided not to start the next? Tell us a bit more about the vehicle? How many miles? What engine? Any previous history of a problem like this?
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Replying to: srs_49 (Oct 08, 2009 3:01 am)
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Replying to: silky2003 (Oct 08, 2009 6:29 am) Unfortunately, I can't tell you where to go from here. I assume the PCM (ECU) is getting +12V? I had the 3.3L in our '94 DC, but never had any problems with the ignition, so never had to replace or troubleshoot the parts you've already replaced. |
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