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Chrysler Town & Country: Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

156 messages,  Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 7:02 AM

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#141 of 156 05 T&C starting problem by kablo Aug 26, 2009 (1:41 pm)
I have an 05 T&C eng. light came on the code was #2 scondary circute ignition coil is bad, I changed the coil/wires/plugs when started noticed #3 and 5 are crossed wire. I corrected the prob. then started the van still same code (code was cleared) was detected. shut off the eng. the check the wires /plugs /coil. everything was OK. started the eng. Battery light came on, dicounnected the Neg. wire from Battery, eng ran ok , so I thought Alt. is good. tyrned the eng. off , connected the neg. wire . tried to start nothing ahappened( no starter and no fire on plugs), after 3 atempt eng started and I checked the wures from alternator , I had to shut off and on 3-4 times. after ther 4th time starter did not work and no fire on plugs, too it 2 local mechanic , I was told ECM is bad , they changed it, it did not work, I too the van to Ansira chrysler dealer and I was told Skim madual which dealer said code reads the code on the key's chip (gray color keis), My van hs Blak key and has no chip in it.Iwas charged $365.00 for it and still no start then I was told I have to change the ECM (anothe $1100.00) and no garranty if it works( It was garrantied when they change the skim madual the van will work fin). Now my van is in drive way B/C I didnot want to pay more to dealer ,then hear that it is not starting and more more $ for dealer. Any clue to fix the van will be appriciated.
#142 of 156 1997 T&C Instrument Cluster Trim Removal by screwedbygm Sep 15, 2009 (6:28 pm)
Hi all, This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also. Replies to this message: xwesx (Sep 16, 2009 9:21 am) xwesx (Sep 16, 2009 9:34 am)
#143 of 156 Re: 1997 T&C Instrument Cluster Trim Removal [screwedbygm] by xwesx Sep 16, 2009 (9:21 am)
Replying to: screwedbygm (Sep 15, 2009 6:28 pm) A member posted the process in the "Instrument Cluster" thread. I think I kept a copy of it (I am looking now), but it involves more than just the trim around the cluster. You have to start on the bottom of the dash paneling (below the steering wheel) and work your way up. Indeed, 90% of the work is just removing all of the trim! Replies to this message: xwesx (Sep 16, 2009 9:34 am)
#144 of 156 Re: 1997 T&C Instrument Cluster Trim Removal [xwesx] by xwesx Sep 16, 2009 (9:34 am)
Replying to: xwesx (Sep 16, 2009 9:21 am) Well, darn.... I cannot find it. I downloaded a copy of the process information that the member posted, but I cannot remember his handle nor the thread in which it was posted. I did not find it in the Instrument Panel (rather than Cluster) thread.   Looking at his photos, though, all of the trim on the driver side of the dash is removed: Under the steering wheel, over it, and the bezel around the instrument cluster that includes the driver side and center air vents.
#145 of 156 Chrysler Town and Country by rcurran1015 Sep 17, 2009 (11:44 am)
My Chrysler Town and Country is acting funny when I try to start it. It acts like it doesn't want to start but it does. This just started happening recently and I was wondering what the problem would be. Replies to this message: xwesx (Sep 17, 2009 12:05 pm)
#146 of 156 Re: Chrysler Town and Country [rcurran1015] by xwesx Sep 17, 2009 (12:05 pm)
Replying to: rcurran1015 (Sep 17, 2009 11:44 am) More information, such as year, engine, etc., is always helpful....
#147 of 156 Re: Chrysler [mswann1] by crisismp Sep 22, 2009 (9:52 am)
Replying to: mswann1 (Mar 31, 2007 4:37 pm) Hi Guys, I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2 Replies to this message: xwesx (Sep 22, 2009 12:08 pm)
#148 of 156 Re: Chrysler [crisismp] by xwesx Sep 22, 2009 (12:08 pm)
Replying to: crisismp (Sep 22, 2009 9:52 am) I am not sure if you stated this already, but did you replace the plug wires? If not, I recommend doing so. If you have replaced them, the problem is likely in the ignition module. It sounds like poor spark. You should be able to check resistance on both of those items (plug wires and ignition module) with a multimeter.   I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary!
#149 of 156 Re: Chrysler [crisismp] by crisismp Sep 22, 2009 (2:34 pm)
yeah i changed the plug wires i just want to make sure how would i connect the multimeter to test Replies to this message: xwesx (Sep 22, 2009 6:38 pm) crisismp (Sep 25, 2009 6:41 pm)
#150 of 156 Re: Chrysler [crisismp] by xwesx Sep 22, 2009 (6:38 pm)
Replying to: crisismp (Sep 22, 2009 2:34 pm) I have not done it myself, but here are the instructions in my Haynes manual. Actually, reading it, it sounds like the ignition coil (not module, as I had said) is likely the culprit because two cylinders (one on each side of the engine) are paired on each coil. As such, you may have one bad coil in the ignition coil. Here goes:   On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.   1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack. 4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications. 5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.   And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification:   First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right:   1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6 2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4 3. B+ 4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5   The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus:   315 642   Ignition coil resistance specifications: Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms 70 to 80 degrees F Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms 70 to 80 degrees F Replies to this message: crisismp (Sep 25, 2009 6:41 pm)

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