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Older Ford F-Series (20+ years) Questions

71 messages, Last post on Sep 24, 2009 at 8:59 PM
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I have a 1978 F-250 with a rebuilt 400M. The engine has under 2k miles and is stock except for a Eldlebrock intake and carb. My issue is it is using oil at a rate of a quart a week. There are no leaks anywhere on the engine, nor are the plugs showing any sign's of burning. I run (1) PCV valve on left (passenger side) valve cover, and breather on right side. Any idea's on how to resolve this issue. Side note, this is a nonemissions engine (no EGR valve ect.) and Im drawing vacume directly from the carb to the PVC valve. Thanks!! |
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I have an 88 F150 320 dual tank, can someone please tell me which male connection (thin one or wide one) goes on which screw (possitive or neg.) on my external full pump? It shows what screws are possitive and negative but doesn't explain which flat connector goes on which screw for the female wires to clip onto. The wires with the females on them are black (to thin male) and the other one is pink with black slashes (to wide male). I know black is usually negative but I don't know for sure with these. |
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I just recently bought a 1982 Ford F150 XL. I have replaced spark plugs, and wires. Silenoid Freeze plug and ground wire. The truck was running when it was parked needing new freeze plugs. I got the truck to start once and then died. Now it wont even turn over. Any Ideas?
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Replying to: jonimaxwell903 (Apr 21, 2009 10:41 am) |
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| i have a 1982 f250 with a 6.6 400 and c6 trans that is sitting on a frame that is rusted out but i also have a 1993 f250 with a 5.8 351. i was wondering if anyone knew if the 1982 f250 body and engine/tranny would fit on the 1993 f250 frame. i realize mounts will be different and i can handle that but i am more concerned about the body fitting and the drive line fitting. and if anyone had any tips on the 400 engine because i will be restoring the whole truck my self | |
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I'm trying to replace the key lock cylinder on my 78 F-150. The only problem is; the key won't turn to the accessories position so I can release the pin. I've tried WD40 (stupid idea) and a graphite dry lube to get the key to turn but it's still doesn't work, no matter how much I jiggle the key. Is there any other option available to me short of drilling out the cylinder or replacing the entire ignition? |
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