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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems
692 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 7:13 AM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Forum. Your Host is kcram
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter V8 4x4 and I just pulled into a parking lot and immediately started to hear a clinking of sorts and it sounded like it was coming from the transfer case area. I checked the stick shift for the four wheel and it was loose as if it wasn't engaging at all. I put in the place that it should be and the noise stopped, but the stick didn't "lock" in place. Any ideas what it could be? Is there a clip or something could have come loose?
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Replying to: tbizzle (Jul 14, 2009 7:24 pm) |
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My newly acquired 2000 Dakota Quad Cab has a minor slippage occurring when seated in the drivers seat. When you brake at a light the seat shifts forward about an inch. Any ideas on repairing this. I understand this happens alot on these vehicles. Thank you 
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I just bought a 1992 dodge dakota LE 4x4 ext.cab automatic trans it drives forward fine,but will not go in reverce. You try to put it in reverce and it goes in drive.Even when you put it in nutrule it still will not go backwards its like its lock up for reverce can anybody  help????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????- - ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????- - ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????- - ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????- - ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????- - ??????????????
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Replying to: stevegoodchild (Jul 17, 2009 11:48 am) look through the Dodge Dakota Interior Issues discussion and see if others may have solved this issue. kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host |
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i have a 2005(75300 miles) dakota 3.7 with automatic trans. after driving one and a half hour, most of the time the car display the red thermometer check light. at this time the transmission stop upshifting so the RPM goes up to 5000 when running 60mph. the dealer replace an electronic module in the transmission that last for a day and said that the tranny needs a new torque converter and new seals that will cost $2700. that is the reason why i am looking for another transmission.
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Replying to: rbentsen (Jul 09, 2009 12:40 pm) I did find the 8 pin plug on my 2000 Dakota and sure enough it had fluid in it. I tried to clean it out and plugged it back in but still got the solenoid code. The Dodge mechanic said it was definitely an electrical issue and 9 times out 10 it is the solenoid. But do you think I should replace the plug first? Thanks, Paul |
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Replying to: dustyk (Feb 22, 2009 9:34 am) Is this difficult to reprogram or replace? You sure seem to know your dodge transmissions. |
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| I'm having a bit of a problem with the manual transmission on my Dakota. Sometimes it is Difficult to shift into first gear and out of third. The clutch is also making a little noise when engaging into any gear. Any Ideas??? | |
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Hi all - first post. Couple weeks ago my 2004 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab, 4WD, v8, auth started having difficulty shifting 2nd to 3rd. This happens only occasionally, some days not at all, some days a number of times throughout the day. Symptoms are you're in 2nd gear for what sometimes seems like a fraction too long, then a hard, sudden, jolting shift to 3rd. Took it into the local tranny shop, and they suspected a line sensor problem. They were 'pretty certain' that was it, but no guarantees. 3 days later, and $175 poorer, no joy. Took it back in, and now they are saying it might be the 'EPC Solenoid'. This is a $550+ part, installed. They could only give me a 50% assurance this was the problem, so naturally I declined the repair. Codes encountered are: P0932 - line pressure sensor, and P0869 - line pressure high fault. They measure the line pressure and it was around 160. Apparently normal load pressure is maybe 60. Right now I'm looking for 2nd, 3rd and 4th opinions on this. 50% is not much assurance that the near $600 is going to be well-spent, and I really don't want to get into the position of having spent nearly $800 and still having the problem. My 2nd question is - is this part, assuming I would replace it - something a guy could R&R (if they had the part) - or does this need to be done by a shop? Thanks!
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