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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

693 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 12:30 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#521 of 693
Re: '94 Dakota Transmission problem [orangedakota] by extremustang
Feb 10, 2009 (6:37 pm)
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Replying to: orangedakota (Mar 28, 2007 5:20 pm)

theres a metal gasket under the intake manifold thats goes bad, i would start there, mine cost around 650 to get replaced.
#522 of 693
HELP by cragan
Feb 11, 2009 (4:07 pm)
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im stumped, and i dont know where to turn and i need help, my tranny is bout to go its slipping really bad and shifting hard, and fluid is really gritty too, i would like a manuel tranny but dont know what kind will work, i dont want to rebuil the automatic either, i have a dakota r/t with the 5.9 360 please i need help im stumped!!!
#523 of 693
Re: '94 Dakota Transmission problem [extremustang] by bpeebles
Feb 11, 2009 (6:50 pm)
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Replying to: extremustang (Feb 10, 2009 6:37 pm)

Just to be specific... the ol' 1960s-based "LA" small-block V8s (318CI and 360CI) would fail in such a way that the intake-manifold gasket would leak and "suck oil" into the intake.
 
It is usually easy to see if your engine has this issue by looking down thru the throttlebody into the intake plenum. (use a flashlight) If you see oil "puddles" in that area... you have the problem described above by (extremustang).
 
Unfortunately, the labor to replace the $8 gasket is over $600 because the entire top of the engine must be dismantled.
#524 of 693
95 dodge dakota trany problem by joefre
Feb 12, 2009 (11:18 am)
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Ok here it is, first it was not wanting to go from 2nd into 3rd once it was warmed up. It shifted fine when it was still cold. Then reverse started making wierd noise and not having any power like it is slipping bad. I changed the filter and fluid with the correct fluid. Now it shifts right through pretty good in forward gears but reverse is getting worse by the day. What do I do or try next? I don't have money to throw away and the truck was cheap to start with. Also if this has 1st, 2nd and drive why does it sound like it shifts 5 times when going down the road just easy cruzing along.
#525 of 693
Re: HELP [cragan] by dustyk
Feb 15, 2009 (5:44 am)
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Replying to: cragan (Feb 11, 2009 4:07 pm)

A New Process...er...I mean, New Venture NV3500 is the manual transmission used in a Dakota. Finding one shouldn't be a problem and the tranny will fit right up. But I'm not sure about driveshaft lengths, the PCM is much different and so is the electrical wiring. You'll need to hang a clutch pedal and I think you'll find a plethora of small little things that are different enough to possibly frustrate you.
 
Rebuilding a 46RH or 46RE is not a big deal. If you properly maintain an automatic you shouldn't have problems with it, even at high mileage.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#526 of 693
Re: 95 dodge dakota trany problem [joefre] by dustyk
Feb 15, 2009 (5:57 am)
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Replying to: joefre (Feb 12, 2009 11:18 am)

Joe,
 
Your hearing five events because there are five events in a normal shift sequence. Dodge truck transmissions of that vintage (either 42RH/RE or 46RH/RE) are four speed automatics. The fifth event you are hearing is the torque converter locking. At very light acceleration the torque converter should lock around 42 MPH.
 
Unfortunately, I fear that your filter and fluid change came too late. While it appears to have fixed the shifting problem going forward, you might have a worn Direct Clutch, a bad Overdrive Thrust Bearing, or a broken Direct Clutch Spring.
 
A loose Rear Band will cause slipping, but they generally don't make any weird noises.
 
Can you describe what kind of debris you found in the pan when you changed the filter? How many miles on the vehicle? What engine?
 
Regards,
Dusty
#527 of 693
dodge dakota trany problem [dustyk] by bpeebles
Feb 15, 2009 (6:24 pm)
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Replying to: dustyk (Feb 15, 2009 5:57 am)

On a related note... when I was going over the sales-broschure considering which options to order on my Dakota.... I decided AGAINST the automatic for several reasons
 
1) It was over $800 added cost.
2) It *requires* frequent PM (Preventive Maintenance) such as fluid-changes and filter changes.
3) Significantly more complexatly and risk of failures.
4) Lower MPG.
 
Before ordering my Dak, I also went down to the service-area and asked about the COST of the frequent automatic xmission PMs. It became obvious to me that ordering the automatic xmission was not cost-effective over the life of the vehicle.
 
Instead, I opted for the manual xmission which was zero added cost the the purchase-price. Over 95Kmiles, I have changed the fluid ONE TIME... and that was solely to 'upgrade' to RedLine synthetic which made the xmission shift like butter and never need another lube-change again.
 
BOTTOM LINE: Unless you have some kind of physical impediment which keeps you from using a clutch.... a manual xmission is a MUCH better choice.
 
The Manual xmission coupled with track-loc rear end, 4X4 and Semi-hemi V8 makes for a MEAN truck. I like the fact that I can "light up" both rear tires with my big toe.
#528 of 693
2001 Dodge Dakota 4.7L with the 545RFE transmission by rresa
Feb 16, 2009 (4:43 pm)
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I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota (4.7L 4x4 w/ 545RFE) with 70K miles that I've owned since it was new. I routinely drive short distances to work (11 miles each way). On my last few "long" trips, I have encountered a recurring issue. After driving approximately 60 to 65 miles at freeway speeds, the transmission began to shift from overdrive to drive then back to overdrive, repeating continuously back and forth. This continues and the shifts get harder (larger fluctuations in the RPM gauge) as you continue. I stopped, let the vehicle rest for 20 minutes and started again. After another 20 minutes, the same thing happened again.
 
Could this a simple TPS issue or could this be a more serious mechanical issue, such as a torque converter or solenoid. Also, when the vehicle is started in cold weather (less than 30 degrees), it won't shift into OD until the engine is warm. Don't know if the two issues are related or not. The fluid is full and clean, with no "burnt" smell.
#529 of 693
Re: HELP [cragan] by dustyk
Feb 17, 2009 (7:01 pm)
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Replying to: cragan (Feb 11, 2009 4:07 pm)

I would recommend a rebuild by a qualified and Mopar friendly technician. Off the shelf rebuilds often have an initial mortality if it's not a quality product. A rebuilder must make it right before they deliver the vehicle to you. If you buy one out-of-the-box and there's something wrong, you'll be the one saddled with taking back out and dealing with a delay.
 
Another advantage of having a good rebuilder recondition your existing transmission, is you can do a number of upgrades to enhance durability and long term reliability. Dodge truck trannies are easy to work on and upgrade to stronger planetary gear sets that use more pinions, more and stronger clutch and steel sets, and even high performance valve body revisions, among other enhancements. These are very easy to upgrade this way. You can go as far as making a 46RE equivalent to a 48RE in terms of strength and durability if you want to.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#530 of 693
Re: 2001 Dodge Dakota 4.7L with the 545RFE transmission [rresa] by dustyk
Feb 17, 2009 (7:13 pm)
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Replying to: rresa (Feb 16, 2009 4:43 pm)

On a 545RFE, shifts to fifth gear are prevented until the automatic transmission fluid reaches 36 degrees F. Torque converter lock-up will not occur until the ATF reaches 80 degrees F.
 
Have you replaced the battery recently? If this is the original battery it may be causing intermittent loss of PCM or TCM memory keep alive. You might need to reflash the PCM. In fact, since your 2001 was manufacturered, there have a few transmission flash updates issued.
 
An open IOD fuse in the fuse panel (on the instrument panel) will cause irratic shifting problems.
 
And, yes, a defective Throttle Position Sensor can and will cause irratic shifting issues as well. In fact, this is a fairly common problem on older Daks.
 
Lastly, if you haven't done so yet, I would recommend that the transmission filters be changed. A partially clogged Cooler Return Filter may cause pressure loss after being driven for a while.
 
Regards,
Dusty

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