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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

685 messages,  Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 9:37 AM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#519 of 685
Re: Transmission story.beware of transmission shops [dustyk] by morganv
Feb 07, 2009 (5:24 am)
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Replying to: dustyk (Feb 01, 2009 7:38 pm)

Dusty. well theyve driven driven the dakota around for better than a week and things seem fine. my husband says they're going to pull the pan down in another week about 300 more miles, and see how things are doing. since my daughter's boyfriend now has a job hes wondering what he can do to make sure this transmission will last as long as it can.is there something we can use to flush out the transmision? Also the engine hes says it doesnt' use ant oil but it runs rough when its cold. the spark plugs were replaced about 4 years ago. sounds like this truck has not received much attention. thanks again for your help1 Morgan
#520 of 685
Re: Transmission story.beware of transmission shops [morganv] by dustyk
Feb 07, 2009 (10:28 pm)
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Replying to: morganv (Feb 07, 2009 5:24 am)

The problem with solvents or chemical additives to cleanse the transmission is that there is a huge potential that the solvent will work too well, loosening excessive amounts of material that can clog servos and passages in the shift body. When high mileage trannies get very dirty from lack of maintenance, I would recommend a displacement or bladder flush. This process uses the pumping pressure of the transmission itself to "displace" ATF stored in a rubber reservoir, thus allowing a relatively low pressure flush.
 
ATF+3 contains detergents that will scrub out material, and a suspension catalyst that will hold and carry the unwanted material out when drained or flushed. ATF+4 actually has an improved detergent and catalyst package that does an even better job. The detergents in ATF+ will act upon dirt much more slowly than a force flush and prevent huge amounts of material from flooding the system all at once.
 
Unfortunately, this means that dirt in an elevated dirt environment will be present for a much longer duration, requiring more frequent and shortened filter and fluid change intervals. The best way to avoid problems is regular, scheduled maintenance. Despite a reputation that is not correctly deserved, I've seen hundreds of Mopar trannies 150,000 miles and more without repair or rebuild that had routine maintenance. And by the way, this goes for other makers transmissions, too. The majority of transmissions that develop a problem or fail are due to lack of maintenance.
 
As far as engine performance, submit another post in the engine or other area and we can comment there.
 
Best regards,
Dusty
#521 of 685
Re: '94 Dakota Transmission problem [orangedakota] by extremustang
Feb 10, 2009 (6:37 pm)
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Replying to: orangedakota (Mar 28, 2007 5:20 pm)

theres a metal gasket under the intake manifold thats goes bad, i would start there, mine cost around 650 to get replaced.
#522 of 685
HELP by cragan
Feb 11, 2009 (4:07 pm)
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im stumped, and i dont know where to turn and i need help, my tranny is bout to go its slipping really bad and shifting hard, and fluid is really gritty too, i would like a manuel tranny but dont know what kind will work, i dont want to rebuil the automatic either, i have a dakota r/t with the 5.9 360 please i need help im stumped!!!
#523 of 685
Re: '94 Dakota Transmission problem [extremustang] by bpeebles
Feb 11, 2009 (6:50 pm)
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Replying to: extremustang (Feb 10, 2009 6:37 pm)

Just to be specific... the ol' 1960s-based "LA" small-block V8s (318CI and 360CI) would fail in such a way that the intake-manifold gasket would leak and "suck oil" into the intake.
 
It is usually easy to see if your engine has this issue by looking down thru the throttlebody into the intake plenum. (use a flashlight) If you see oil "puddles" in that area... you have the problem described above by (extremustang).
 
Unfortunately, the labor to replace the $8 gasket is over $600 because the entire top of the engine must be dismantled.
#524 of 685
95 dodge dakota trany problem by joefre
Feb 12, 2009 (11:18 am)
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Ok here it is, first it was not wanting to go from 2nd into 3rd once it was warmed up. It shifted fine when it was still cold. Then reverse started making wierd noise and not having any power like it is slipping bad. I changed the filter and fluid with the correct fluid. Now it shifts right through pretty good in forward gears but reverse is getting worse by the day. What do I do or try next? I don't have money to throw away and the truck was cheap to start with. Also if this has 1st, 2nd and drive why does it sound like it shifts 5 times when going down the road just easy cruzing along.
#525 of 685
Re: HELP [cragan] by dustyk
Feb 15, 2009 (5:44 am)
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Replying to: cragan (Feb 11, 2009 4:07 pm)

A New Process...er...I mean, New Venture NV3500 is the manual transmission used in a Dakota. Finding one shouldn't be a problem and the tranny will fit right up. But I'm not sure about driveshaft lengths, the PCM is much different and so is the electrical wiring. You'll need to hang a clutch pedal and I think you'll find a plethora of small little things that are different enough to possibly frustrate you.
 
Rebuilding a 46RH or 46RE is not a big deal. If you properly maintain an automatic you shouldn't have problems with it, even at high mileage.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#526 of 685
Re: 95 dodge dakota trany problem [joefre] by dustyk
Feb 15, 2009 (5:57 am)
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Replying to: joefre (Feb 12, 2009 11:18 am)

Joe,
 
Your hearing five events because there are five events in a normal shift sequence. Dodge truck transmissions of that vintage (either 42RH/RE or 46RH/RE) are four speed automatics. The fifth event you are hearing is the torque converter locking. At very light acceleration the torque converter should lock around 42 MPH.
 
Unfortunately, I fear that your filter and fluid change came too late. While it appears to have fixed the shifting problem going forward, you might have a worn Direct Clutch, a bad Overdrive Thrust Bearing, or a broken Direct Clutch Spring.
 
A loose Rear Band will cause slipping, but they generally don't make any weird noises.
 
Can you describe what kind of debris you found in the pan when you changed the filter? How many miles on the vehicle? What engine?
 
Regards,
Dusty
#527 of 685
dodge dakota trany problem [dustyk] by bpeebles
Feb 15, 2009 (6:24 pm)
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Replying to: dustyk (Feb 15, 2009 5:57 am)

On a related note... when I was going over the sales-broschure considering which options to order on my Dakota.... I decided AGAINST the automatic for several reasons
 
1) It was over $800 added cost.
2) It *requires* frequent PM (Preventive Maintenance) such as fluid-changes and filter changes.
3) Significantly more complexatly and risk of failures.
4) Lower MPG.
 
Before ordering my Dak, I also went down to the service-area and asked about the COST of the frequent automatic xmission PMs. It became obvious to me that ordering the automatic xmission was not cost-effective over the life of the vehicle.
 
Instead, I opted for the manual xmission which was zero added cost the the purchase-price. Over 95Kmiles, I have changed the fluid ONE TIME... and that was solely to 'upgrade' to RedLine synthetic which made the xmission shift like butter and never need another lube-change again.
 
BOTTOM LINE: Unless you have some kind of physical impediment which keeps you from using a clutch.... a manual xmission is a MUCH better choice.
 
The Manual xmission coupled with track-loc rear end, 4X4 and Semi-hemi V8 makes for a MEAN truck. I like the fact that I can "light up" both rear tires with my big toe.
#528 of 685
2001 Dodge Dakota 4.7L with the 545RFE transmission by rresa
Feb 16, 2009 (4:43 pm)
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I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota (4.7L 4x4 w/ 545RFE) with 70K miles that I've owned since it was new. I routinely drive short distances to work (11 miles each way). On my last few "long" trips, I have encountered a recurring issue. After driving approximately 60 to 65 miles at freeway speeds, the transmission began to shift from overdrive to drive then back to overdrive, repeating continuously back and forth. This continues and the shifts get harder (larger fluctuations in the RPM gauge) as you continue. I stopped, let the vehicle rest for 20 minutes and started again. After another 20 minutes, the same thing happened again.
 
Could this a simple TPS issue or could this be a more serious mechanical issue, such as a torque converter or solenoid. Also, when the vehicle is started in cold weather (less than 30 degrees), it won't shift into OD until the engine is warm. Don't know if the two issues are related or not. The fluid is full and clean, with no "burnt" smell.

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