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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

694 messages,  Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 7:32 AM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#454 of 694
water in transmission by Leegas
Dec 13, 2008 (12:30 pm)
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Went mudding and after two days, my auto transmission started to slip. Checked the dip stick and it had water on it. I had the trans flushed out but it still slips. it is a 2004 dakota with a 4.7 v-8. Before i spend 2000.00 on a rebuilt one, is there anything else i can try. What about replacing the transmission filter and fluid?
 
Lee
#455 of 694
Re: Shifter Stuck in Park [fxallen] by dustyk
Dec 13, 2008 (2:17 pm)
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Replying to: fxallen (Dec 13, 2008 9:02 am)

I'm not sure what "lubricating the sliding and rotating parts on the locking pawl mechanism" means to you. Although it can happen on a transmission that has a damaged parking pawl or sprag, this is very rare.
 
This problem is usually the result of an out-of-adjustment Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) mechanism that's located in the steering column, or a damaged or improperly lubricated shift cable that connects to it.
 
Remove the trim on the steering column and watch the movement as you move the gearshift lever. If the lever is moved but you see no corresponding movement in the cable, its a binding problem. Lubrication mat resolve the issue if it's not an adjustment or damaged shift cable problem. There's a special grease that must be used available from your Dodge dealer. Do not use axle or bearing grease.
 
There is a adjustment procedure, but I recommend having your dealer check this out. This is a common symptom on older or high mileage vehicles. It shouldn't take a tech. too long to fix this if there are no parts required.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#456 of 694
Re: water in transmission [Leegas] by dustyk
Dec 13, 2008 (2:32 pm)
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Replying to: Leegas (Dec 13, 2008 12:30 pm)

You have a 545RFE transmission. 545RFEs are pretty sophisticated. They are not only fully electronic but also fully adaptive, meaning they constantly adjust for driver input and operating conditions. If you've done a full flush of the system, you should've replaced both transmission filters (Yes, there are two in a 545RFE). If you haven't replaced the filters, you may have packed either one, especially the Coolant Return Filter, with water. This will block fluid flow.
 
First, can you please describe how you flushed this transmission?
 
Second, what fluid did you use when the flush was done? If you didn't use ATF+4 you may be in trouble!
 
Possibilities. You may not have flushed all of the water out of this system. In addition, if mud has gotten into the system a flush may not be adequate enough to remove all debris.
 
545RFEs compensate for clutch slippage over time by counting Clutch Volume Indexes (CVI) and internally adjusting clutch pressure. When the transmission was slipping, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may now believe there is so much slippage that the CVI has overshot. This may possibly be corrected by disconnecting the battery for one minute and allowing the PCM to reset.
 
Personally, I would recommend taking this to a Dodge dealer and having them diagnose the problem. These trannys are really tough and near bulletproof. Tear downs and rebuilds are extremely rare, and usually unnecessary.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#457 of 694
Re: Shifter Stuck in Park [fxallen] by stealthb2
Dec 13, 2008 (9:18 pm)
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Replying to: fxallen (Dec 13, 2008 9:02 am)

fxallen,
After reading dustyk post, he is correct. I had the dealer replace the shifter cable and when I went to pick up the truck, the mech could not get the ignition to unlock. After he removed the cable from the steering column, the ignition still would not unlock. His response to me when I asked what was next was, "...replace the steering column!" NO F'N WAY was mine back to him! After he isolated the problem on the lot, I thanked him and took care of it at home. I increased the tension on the return spring by adding some additional material under the edge where it hooks over closer to the driver. I cleaned the area by blowing out the dust with on of those computer canned air cans and then used some molylube on the plastic parts. After all of this, the ignition has not given me any problems. With living in a very dusty, desert climate that constantly has winds blowing from 5-40 MPH, I can not complain. I did make sure I have the correct screwdriver in the glovebox, in case it should give me a hassle. Let me know if I can be of any help. stealthb2
#458 of 694
Shifter Sticking in Park by fxallen
Dec 13, 2008 (10:28 pm)
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Seems to be no problem with the shifter cable per se ... works fine after the locking pawl is out of the way. Noticed that there is a recall on the 2001 and 2002's for roll aways due to this pawl NOT locking the shift lever in the Park position.
 
HAS to be some common problem here and I'm thinking there is too much metal to metal contact with no "bearing, sliding type material" in between these two metal surfaces. The slider is quite long and seems to be just a pot metal slider against a pot metal surface on the column.
 
Wonder what the replacement parts are for the fix for the recall??
 
Fred
#459 of 694
A Creamepuff 1989 3.9 6cyl 4x4 Automatic 104k original miles by macshasta
Dec 14, 2008 (11:20 am)
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This Dakota has been in storage for several years. After warming up to operating temperature the tachometer reading goes bonkers showing extreme rpm and the transmission goes decides to go bonkers by shifting down to a lower gear with a maximum speed of 30 or so. Shifting the transmission to neutral and then back to drive allows the process to repeat. As a newbie to MoPar, I haven't the foggiest notion of what to look for -but- my gut says it is some sort of sensor related to speed or throttle.
 
TIA
macshasta
servicemacshasta.com
#460 of 694
going, going, gone by hadin
Dec 14, 2008 (1:58 pm)
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i recently purchased a 99 dodge dakota single cab. while driving on the expressway, it would not shift out of third. rpms were roaring at 5 ( the red section) an i was only going about 45-50. while on a curvy stretch of road it did not handle curves well at all. the steering wheel would jerk if i turned it far left or right. and on the final stretch of residential streets, it would not shift out of second. i don't know much about the car and i would like to keep it, but i can't afford to spend anymore than $500 bucks. its in bad shape and i would like to get a plan together before i use the last drop of power left going to a mechanic. please advise
#461 of 694
Re: A Creamepuff 1989 3.9 6cyl 4x4 Automatic 104k original miles [macshasta] by dustyk
Dec 15, 2008 (8:05 am)
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Replying to: macshasta (Dec 14, 2008 11:20 am)

A couple of things quickly come to mind. This could be caused by a sticking Idle Speed Motor/Solenoid or you could have a cracked vacuum hose somewhere.
 
The Idle Speed Motor or Solenoid attaches to the Throttlebody Assembly. These get gummed up after a while and need to be cleaned. They will sometimes stick in the open position, which effectively raises the idle speed. You could also have a sticking/binding throttle cable or linkage. If the Throttle Pressure Pivot linkage is sticking, the return spring has rusted off, or the cable is binding, this can cause the throttle linkage to stick.
 
A split or cracked vacuum hose will do the same thing. Because of this vehicle's age and mileage, I recommend checking all of the vacuum hoses for cracking and/or splitting.
 
There are a number of sensors in the system that could contribute to this problem, the one most likely is the Coolant Temperature Sensor. This monitors the coolant temperature and feeds an input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If the PCM thinks the coolant temperature is very low, it will send a signal to the Idle Speed Motor/Solenoid to increase the idle speed.
 
Best regards,
Dusty
#462 of 694
Re: going, going, gone [hadin] by dustyk
Dec 15, 2008 (8:16 am)
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Replying to: hadin (Dec 14, 2008 1:58 pm)

I'm sorry, but its somewhat difficult to understand the symptoms here with your description. If the engine speed is at or near 5000 rpms and the road speed is at 45 or 50 MPH, then the transmission is either in second gear or the transmission is slipping. The other symptoms are either a result or coincidental, but I don't believe germane to the first symptom.
 
I would first start with checking the transmission fluid level. On Chrysler built vehicles, the transmission fluid must be checked on a level surface with the engine at normal operating temperature and the gearshift in neutral. If the transmission fluid is low or too high, you will get slipping. If the transmission requires any fluid, use ATF+3 or ATF+4 fluid only.
 
If the fluid level is okay, there are a number of things that could be at fault, such as a sticking or inoperative shift solenoid, bad electrical connections to the transmission, etc. You may need to have someone retrieve the fault codes from the computer before anticipating any diagnosis or repair. Most Auto Zone or Advantage Auto stores will check the computer for codes at no charge.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#463 of 694
Re: A Creamepuff 1989 3.9 6cyl 4x4 Automatic 104k original miles [dustyk] by macshasta
Dec 15, 2008 (8:40 am)
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Replying to: dustyk (Dec 15, 2008 8:05 am)

Thanks, Dusty. I think I mislead you regarding the tach going bonkers. The actual engine rpm is not being effected. The engine remains steady and smooth as silk. It is just the tach that shows an incorrect high engine speed and by putting the transmission into neutral, the tach drops back to the correct reading (around 3k) and the Dakota runs correctly for a few seconds - until the tach registers a high reading and then the dance continues.
 
TIA
macshasta
servicemacshasta.com

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