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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

693 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 12:30 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#442 of 693
Re: 1998 Dakot 5.2 Auto, trans swap?? or stay auto.... [CharDak] by dustyk
Dec 03, 2008 (6:12 pm)
Reply

Replying to: CharDak (Dec 01, 2008 6:23 am)

I'm glad to have been helpful. I'm honored by your comments.
 
One thing I'd like to add is the importance of flushing the cooling lines after a rebuilt or a swap. The way you describe the magnet, I am worried that the cooling lines are restricted. This is a VERY common problem, and not just on Mopars.
 
Best regards,
Dusty
#443 of 693
Re: Transmission Help [findme23rls] by dustyk
Dec 03, 2008 (6:15 pm)
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Replying to: findme23rls (Nov 23, 2008 9:58 am)

Yes, this is a common symptom on older Dakotas.
 
The Shift Cable is binding or is badly out of adjustment. You could have a problem with the Transmission Range Sensor, but this is very rare and equally doubtful.
 
I suggest taking it to the dealer for repair.
 
Best regards,
Dusty
#444 of 693
Re: Does anyone know??? [dakota94] by dustyk
Dec 03, 2008 (6:36 pm)
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Replying to: dakota94 (Nov 15, 2008 12:22 pm)

If you look on the side of the transmission housing, there should be either an "RH" or "RE" in raised letters cast into the housing. You should be able to use any RH downwards to '89. The RE series is a little more complicated since there could be a computer-to-transmission compatibility issue.
 
You can't use an "RH" to replace a "RE," and vice-versa.
 
Swaping transmissions from different years is not an approach I recommend, since there are often changes and differences (axle ratio, for example) that will have a bearing on transmission performance, reliability, and sometimes suitability.
 
Good luck,
Dusty
#445 of 693
Re: 1997 Dodge Dakota Transmission Trouble [gocatsgo08] by backyardmech1
Dec 04, 2008 (7:50 am)
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Replying to: gocatsgo08 (Nov 12, 2008 6:44 am)

What you are describing sounds a lot like a catalytic converter problem. Had the same symptoms on two different trucks and the catalytic converter was clogged up on both. After putting a new one in (not inexpensive) they worked great. that may explain why the o2 sensor was appearing. Good luck.
#446 of 693
Re: Transmission Help [dustyk] by dge330
Dec 08, 2008 (10:33 am)
Reply

Replying to: dustyk (Dec 03, 2008 6:15 pm)

dUSTY I HAVE A FEW PROBLEMS WITH MY SON'S 02 DAK .FIRST IT IS GETTING TERRIBLE FUEL MILEAGE .NEXT IT CUT'S OFF WHEN IT IS SHIFTED INTO REVERSE NEXT IT HAS A SHIFTING PROBLEM IN HIG GEAR AND OD I HAVE REPLACED THE TPS SAME PROBLEM REPLACED ONE O2 SENSOR AND IT THROWS A CODE OF 0748 WHEN SHIFTING INTO HIGH GEAR AND OD .ANY SUGGESTION'S? IT IS A 2002 3.9 AUTO DAKOTA .I AM GETTING READY TO CHANGE THE PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID AND THE FILTER AND FLUID WHILE IN THERE .ANY MORE SUGGESTION'S?
#447 of 693
Re: Transmission Help [dge330] by dustyk
Dec 09, 2008 (4:55 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dge330 (Dec 08, 2008 10:33 am)

This needs problem needs to start with a pressure check. Could be a locked torque converter, broken planetary gearset, a stuck or dragging clutch, stuck valve body, there are too many things that might cause this.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#448 of 693
Re: Transmission Help [dustyk] by dge330
Dec 09, 2008 (6:01 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dustyk (Dec 09, 2008 4:55 pm)

the truck had a rod knocking and it sat for 2 years before we had the motor rebuilt .andn this is the problem we had after we installed new motor .i am going to replace both solenoids in the trans plus filter and fluid
#449 of 693
also by dge330
Dec 09, 2008 (6:04 pm)
Reply
added seafoam trans tune about 25 miles ago to try to free stuck vales if any
#450 of 693
Re: also [dge330] by dustyk
Dec 12, 2008 (8:38 am)
Reply

Replying to: dge330 (Dec 09, 2008 6:04 pm)

Here's my opinion on using transmission additives. The types that are advertised for curing worn, dried, or cracked seals and gaskets rarely work. If a seal is bad there is no chemical known to man that can repair it. A seal that has a tear will not become whole again with any chemical additive.
 
Some of the so-called "tune up" additives contain chemicals designed to loosen gum, varnish and debris deposits formed by loose clutch or other internal materials. There are two problems with these types of products.
 
One. They sometimes work! Yes, they can soften debris materials but then this material is circulating around in the system where it often moves on to other areas that were not previously affected. This can be acute in older, high mileage or poorly maintained transmission where there may be a lot of debris material built up over time. Softened debris will then be re-entered into the fluid flow as loose particles increasing component wear and cause blockage in another area or stop fluid flows altogether.
 
This can be especially acute in Chrysler transmissions because they all use a Anti-Drain Back Valve to prevent siphoning of the torque converter at cool-down. The anti-drainback valves used in most Chrysler automatics are susceptible to becoming clogged, the lone exception is the 545RFE which uses an internal anti-drainback valve and has a coolant return filter just in front of it.
 
If you have ever seen transmission cooling lines that were literally packed solid of debris you'd understand that just adding something to the fluid to "loosen things up" could have grave repercussions. In fact, in the transmission service and rebuilding industry system flushing is highly controversial for this very reason. There is a point when deposits inside the transmission are so great that the only correct way to ensure that the system is completely clean is to tear it down and bench clean.
 
Two. They de-stabilize ATF, especially ATF+. Chrysler's ATF+ series is a very specialized lubricant/hydraulic fluid. It contains a number of additives that lower the pour-point, raise the operating temperature (viscosity index), make the fluid resistant to moisture build-up, prevent foaming and oxidation, and most importantly...give the fluid a specific friction quality to match the design of the transmission clutches and other internal components to ensure design shift operation.
 
ATF+3 and ATF+4 are the easiest to de-stabilize because they are a much more complex fluid than Dexron or Type F. One quart of Dexron-Mercon will kill a Chrysler tranny in just a few thousand miles. Additives are even worse, in my opinion. When they are used you now have committed yourself to the complete removal of the additive to the transmission, which means you must flush the entire system at the very least.
 
My advice is if you think you need to put an additive in the transmission, what you really need is to have the transmission correctly diagnosed and serviced. Many times this will be less costly and time consuming.
 
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#451 of 693
Shifter Stuck in Park by fxallen
Dec 13, 2008 (9:02 am)
Reply
Had the dreaded "Stuck in Park" happen on my 2001 Dakota Sport Club Cab AWD yesterday. Happened in a friends driveway ... had to crawl under it a disconnect shift cable and manually shift it into neutral and push it out of the driveway. Have read all posts re this issue. Looks like lubricating the sliding and rotating parts on the locking pawl mechanism is the only fix??? Only way out was to push the locking pawl in with my finger, then it started working again, didn't have to step on the brake pedal. This morning after sitting all night in a warm garage it did the same thing... had to push the pawl in with my finger ... then it released again just using the key. Looks like this is going to be a real pain. Any permanent fixes for this that anyone has come up with??

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