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Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems

75 messages,  Last post on Sep 07, 2009 at 6:45 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? GMC, GMC Jimmy, Brakes, SUV


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#1 of 75
2001 jimmy brake indicator problems by jonesvm
Apr 05, 2006 (7:05 am)
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I have a 2001 Jimmy SLT truck. i have had no major problems and I'm hoping this is not one. First, when I first start Jimmy, it seems as though my accelerator is locked. I have to push hard to pop it loose. Jimmy jerks off(of course) because I have to give the accelerate one hard pump. After then everything is fine until I cut Jimmy off and have to start again. What is this and is it an easy fix?
 
Next, The brakes seem to be fine but, the indicator light for ABS and Emergency brakes come on all of the time. Jimmy has no squeaking or scrubbing in the brakes. Is this a brake problem or a faulty indicator light problem?
#3 of 75
Re: 2001 jimmy brake indicator problems [jonesvm] by steve_ HOST
Apr 05, 2006 (8:10 am)
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Replying to: jonesvm (Apr 05, 2006 7:05 am)

Check out Stop here! Let's talk about brakes while waiting for responses in here.
 
Steve, Host
#4 of 75
Re: 2001 jimmy brake indicator problems [jonesvm] by repairdog
Apr 06, 2006 (2:38 am)
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Replying to: jonesvm (Apr 05, 2006 7:05 am)

Use the main forum - I usually never look in here.
If an SLT assume 4.3 V6 with the rear drum brakes and front discs. See if the gas pedal is binding or most likely its the throttle butterfly in the throttle body sticking from deposits so take the air housing off it and open and spray (engine OFF) and clean with a toothbrush so its clean. Also spray the cable on the side and see that the mech is free - the cruise is there too and should be free. Install the housing BEFORE starting and it will run rough for a short time till the carb cleaner is burned up!
Sounds like 2 brake problems - the emerg brake release may be sticking so after you release it see if the pedal is all the way up. Next the ABS light could be a bad front wheel sensor or wire (connects from the hub to a frame connector) so check the wires first. Rear sensor (VSS) for 2wd is on the trans and 4wd on the transfer case. ABS codes require a special code reader, so if not one of these quick fixes get the codes read to pin point.
#5 of 75
Intermittent Brake Problem by crpntrlady
Jun 27, 2006 (1:48 am)
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My mechanic is stumped about my 94 jimmy. While driving as you apply the brake they will feel spongy at first and then there it's as if there are no brakes. It is a very scary situation but it only happens every once in awhile. My mechanic has had the vehicle for 3 months and can't figure out what it could be no computer codes come up. One suggested a solenoid inside the transmission. Another the power brake module, a part that is over $600. The mechanic just wants me to trade it in so the problem will end for him. But there has to be an explanation for this problem. Can anyone shed some light? Thanks
#6 of 75
Re: Intermittent Brake Problem [crpntrlady] by repairdog
Jun 27, 2006 (2:59 am)
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Replying to: crpntrlady (Jun 27, 2006 1:48 am)

Did a search on your year and abs and here's a possible reason from the "Center for Safety". Call the dealer and run your VIN and it may be free to fix -report back here when resolved.
 
"Prompted by over 7,000 consumer complaints, NHTSA opened an investigation into ABS brakes in June 1994 on all 1991-94 S/T pickups and utility vehicles. Many drivers reported the brake pedal suddenly "went to the floor" without warning. The ABS brakes in the smaller 1991-96 Blazer, Jimmy, Bravada and S/T-series pickups and Sonomas randomly failed to stop the vehicle with consumers reporting more than 2,000 accidents and 600 injuries. In August 1999 NHTSA announced a recall of over one million 1991-96 S10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy with 4-wheel drive & EBC4 ABS to replace a safety switch that caused the vehicles to go into 2-wheel drive and increased stopping distance. In addition, 1993-96 models with 3-sensor (versus 4-sensor) EBC4 ABS were to get improved computer software for the braking system."
#7 of 75
Re: Intermittent Brake Problem [repairdog] by crpntrlady
Jun 27, 2006 (12:20 pm)
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Replying to: repairdog (Jun 27, 2006 2:59 am)

Thank you repairdog, just called the local dealership and there are no outstanding recalls for the brakes on my vehicle.
#8 of 75
Re: Intermittent Brake Problem [crpntrlady] by repairdog
Jun 28, 2006 (2:39 am)
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Replying to: crpntrlady (Jun 27, 2006 12:20 pm)

I would try them again with the data above and state your issue because the time limit and mileage are too high for them to cover a 94 - I was dreaming they might actually have someone that had been there awhile or cared - seems like you have to ask several times to get anything done. Ask for the service manager and if he can't help ask for the zone rep to review this (thats the area problem resolution guy) but the vehicle will have to go in to a dealer before the rep can step in.
#9 of 75
jimmy brakes by stumped6
Jun 29, 2006 (7:29 pm)
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My 1999 Jimmy just started showing signs of a similar problem posted earlier. If you press on the brake pedal while the engine is off, the pedal moves about 3/4" before backpressure is felt. When the engine is running, the pedal feels very spongy, even when driving. After a short drive, the brake appears to start working, and you feel the braking effect on the first push, as when approaching a stop light. On subsequent pushes, the brake pedal feels much softer, and you really have to push on the pedal to stop. I have always done my own repairs for the last 30 years, but have never come across a problem like this. The brake pads are good, and there is no air in the system. Could it be the ABS?? Any thoughts?
#10 of 75
Re: jimmy brakes [stumped6] by repairdog
Jun 30, 2006 (3:03 am)
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Replying to: stumped6 (Jun 29, 2006 7:29 pm)

Could be but would guess not. Make sure the large vac line to the power brake unit is not leaking and look at the intake end too cause that connector can be loose and rotate. But I would look at the rears as well - those rear calipers are junk and I always replace with rebuilts when doing a brake job - thay have a plastic type piston single and jam and the slide pins often are not pulled out of the bracket and greased - you have to pull them completely off to verify all this - been there and one stuck slide pin raises hell with the operation of the whole system. Easliest way is to buy "loaded" calipers that have the bracket/caliper/slide pins/pads all and you bolt it in and solves many headaches - only about $55-60 on rear each. Fronts are better cast 2 piston and I have had no problems with those except rusted bleeder screws and I replace those. After you do this reply back.

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