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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems
75 messages, Last post on Sep 07, 2009 at 6:45 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: steve_ (Jun 30, 2008 8:06 pm) But the rear calipers are really, really cheaply made. I have now learned that when doing a rear brake job on a Blazer, figure in the cost of rear calipers. Also, for whatever reason the rear rotors tend to warp. They can be turned and smoothed out, but I am two for two on my personal Blazers having warped rear rotors, when the fronts were smooth as glass. May have something to do with the dual drum/rotor casting. |
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Replying to: vettman1 (Jun 29, 2008 6:16 pm) |
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and one I had never seen before this one. Front caliper would release very slowly after taking your foot off the pedal. Replaced caliper, and durned if it didn't do it again! Get this, the inner lining of the rubber brake line had deteriorated and would allow fluid to flow freely one direction, but would separate and restrict the release. Replaced both front brake lines, purged the fluid to get rid of the trash in the line, and all was good. Never saw that one before or since. |
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I am attempting to change the rear break pads and rotors to my 2003 chevy blazer. how do i deal with the parking breaks. do i have to disassemble the parking breaks in order to replace the disc? if so, then how do i go about doing that and is there a special procedure to reassembling the parking break? if you have pictures that would be a huge help. thank you
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Replying to: halberto (Feb 07, 2009 10:12 am) Just remember to chock the front wheels and DO NOT apply the emergency brake or you will never get those rear rotor/drums off. It really is no more complicated than the fronts. Have fun, Jim |
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Replying to: cact34y (Sep 01, 2006 6:46 am) Did you ever get your back rotor off? I have a 98 blazer 4x4 with 4 wheels disks. I have the same issue with the back rotors. It took me a good 2 hours to get the back wheels off. I had to soak around the hob and inside the studs with wd-40. after an hour I took a hammer to the back of the tire and it finally came off. Both sides were stuck. Now that I have the caliper and bracket off, I cannot get the back rotors off. I also removed the thin lock rings around the lugs and the rotor still will not come off. I took a few bangs on the back of the rotors and front center, still no luck. Any suggestions?
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Replying to: lbeasley (Sep 06, 2009 10:19 am) I have had a case where I knew I was going to have to replace the rotor, so I soaked it for half a day and then dislodged it by tapping with an 8lb sledge. I don't mean beating on it, just a firm tap, a little more than you would use to seat a finishing nail. The mass of the sledge will impart a high amount of mass/force on the rotor and dislodge the rust adhesion. Another trick you can do is reinstall the caliper and brackets. Put the wheels back on, but leave a small (1/16") gap on the lug nuts. Move the car a couple of feet and hit the brakes. Do this forward an backward, and the force of the brakes without the wheels being tight can break loose the rust adhesion. You can usually hear it when they break loose, and with all the lug nuts on, but loose, nothing will come apart. Both of the procedures above can be performed without damaging the rotor. Good luck!
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Sep 06, 2009 5:04 pm)
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Replying to: lbeasley (Sep 07, 2009 1:39 am) |
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