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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems
258 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 1:55 PM
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| Does a website exist where I can enter my VIN, and bring up all of the vital info of my truck, similar to that found on a window sticker at the dealer? I recently purchased a 2004 GMC 2500 CREW (6.0L), and the seller did not have the original sticker, nor did he know what gear (rear-end), or transmission that the truck has. Did GM install more than one type of tranny in the gassers for that year? I got a heluva deal on the truck, so I am not real concerned, but still need to know exactly what I have here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. | |
Who has the better repair manual, and why? Thanks.
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Replying to: jdsprad (Jul 07, 2009 8:31 pm) It is the company that prints the user manuals for the dealer. Pricey, but you have to consider the accuracy and savings of doing it yourself. http://www.helminc.com
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Replying to: akjbmw (Jul 07, 2009 10:47 pm) |
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| Typically, does the alternator get noisy right before it pukes; or just a sign of age. There is 80K miles on my original "Delphi".....is it about time? | |
| I have trouble removing the wire boots off of the spark plugs on my '04 5.3L. Does anybody know a technique that would help? | |
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Replying to: beveroll (Jul 06, 2009 1:32 pm) In answer to your question, I seem to have finally fixed my problem. After several months of fighting numerous possibilities during which I have changed the MAF sensor, throttle position sensor, EGR valve, all four O2 sensors, catalytic converter, fuel pump module, fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors; and also cleaned all grounds on the engine and frame, tried reseating the connector to the PCM. None of these seemed to fix it, at most it would go 3-4 weeks after some of these fixes before it would act up again. The last month or so it seemed to become very sensitive once the outside temperature was over about 90' F. I have an Auto Xray scantool and began tracking all the readings I could monitor and determined that it was not getting enough fuel. When it would lose power, what was happening was that the computer was sensing detonation from the anti-knock sensor and adjusting the timing to prevent this. I found that when it would act up, if I watched the timing on my scantool it would go from about 37' (normal) to 4' if I pressed down on the accelerator and back up to 37' when I released it. I was finally at the point that I thought it was the computer, so I wrote down all the codes, a list of all items I had replaced and when, and the trend monitoring I had done in the last several days and took it into the dealer with all this info. They started troubleshooting and found that the fuel pump was weak. I had checked the fuel pump at idle and it registered about 50-52 psi which is at the bottom of the limits, but the dealer did something I had not thought of doing. They attached the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail with a long enough hose that they could tape it to the windshield and watch it as they drove the truck. At idle it showed about 50 psi, under normal acceleration it would still show about 50 psi, but if you really accelerated hard the fuel pressure would drop to 10-15 psi. I modified my pressure gauge with a long hose and drove it so I could see this happening. The fuel pump module I installed was one of the first items I replaced and that had been about 1 1/2 year ago. After seeing on the pressure gauge what was going on I was skeptical that this would fix it, but it did need resolved before they could do anymore troubleshooting. So I purchased another fuel pump module. This time I bought a Delphi unit, the first unit was just what the local O'Reilly looked up, an Airtex unit. I had checked on warranty for the first pump which was only a year and had asked if the Airtex unit was the best and that is how I found out about the Delphi. Anyways, I installed the new fuel pump module on July 4th and drove the vehicle to work the next couple of days with the fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield. The fuel pressure is at 52 psi at idle, runs around 56-58 psi during cruise and goes up to 60-62 psi when accelerating very hard. The truck has not acted up since and I have even pulled a fairly heavy trailer load and it worked fine. I had noticed when it was acting up that the short and long term fuel trim values on my scantool which indicate how the computer is adjusting the open intervals for the fuel injectors were running at 25% pegged for long term and would peg at 53.9% for short term which is when the vehicle would act up. I have monitored these values since the new fuel pump and they never get above 10% on either and most times run right around 0%. I would never have thought that the fuel pump would have fixed it but it seems to have worked. Hope this helps and saves on future headaches. |
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| I HAVE A 99 CHEVY 3/4 TON PICKUP WITH ABOUT 80 THOUSAND ON THE SECOND ENGINE. I HAVE CHANGED THE FUEL PUMP SEVERAL TIMES ON THIS TRUCK AND I HAVE CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS AND THE PLUG WIRES. WHEN YOU GET OUT ON THE ROAD UP TO ABOUT 55 TO 70 AND LEVEL OUT ON THE THROTTLE, IT BEGINS TO JERK AND FEELS LIKE IT'S MISSING. ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS TO WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS? I ALSO REPLACED THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. THIS SEEMED TO HELP AT FIRST BUT NOT FOR LONG. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN YOU FIRST START OUT AND GETS BETTER AFTER YOU DRIVE A WHILE. HELP PLEASE!!! | |
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