Last post on May 29, 2013 at 8:04 AM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
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Dodge Dakota, Dodge, Suspension, Truck
#78 of 120 Dodge Dakota – Water in the Rear Differential
Dec 09, 2008 (12:19 pm)
I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota extended cab 4X4, V8. I purchased it new. To make a long story short I have had my Dakota to two different dealerships and both have found water in my rear differential. Both dealerships also claim it is a “maintenance issue”. I believe it is a design or manufacturing defect that should be covered under the power train warranty.
I know when I have water in my rear differential by kind of a “groaning” sound coming from the rear end. One of the mechanics who has worked on my Dakota has told me the “groaning” sound comes from the rear differential clutch plates not being properly lubricated because of the water. It has only been 5K to 6K miles since my last fluid change and I am getting the same old “groaning” sound out of my rear end so I know I have water in it again. I only have about 35K miles on my Dakota.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with their Dakota? I live in the NW so NOT driving in wet conditions is NOT an option. I do not believe I have ever completely submerged the rear differential in standing water but we have had some extremely wet driving conditions here in the NW the last couple of years. I have two years left on my power train warranty and I am concerned that once the warranty expires I will all of a sudden be told that I need my rear differential repaired or replaced.
#79 of 120 Re: Dodge Dakota – Water in the Rear Differential [GrayDak]
Dec 09, 2008 (5:25 pm)
Well, my friend here in Western New York State we have a fair amount of moisture and inclement weather too, but this is not something I remember hearing of unless the vehicle's axle was immersed.
Moisture can and will accumulate in a differential assembly through the vent...over time. As the differential assembly heats up, internal air is expelled through the vent. As it cools down, outside ambient air is drawn back in. Over many heating and cooling cycles, moisture will build up in the fluid from outside air. Routine differential lubricant changes will ensure that the moisture content never gets to a high enough level to cause lubrication problems.
If this is happening in 6,000 miles I would have to say there's some other dynamic at work here. I would check the position of the vent hose and ensure there it is correctly positioned, free of cracks, and no signs of poor hose connections that might permit water from entering at a low point.
I guess it is possible that excessive moisture can build up if this vehicle is predominately driven in high moisture environments. For example, if the truck sees duty on more rainy days than dry days, then this might cause your situation. It would be unusual in my experience, but not impossible. But you'd have to eliminate all other possibilities before you could confidently declare driving conditions as a cause.
#80 of 120 Re: Removing front shocks on '93 Dodge Dakota 2WD [clintonb]
Dec 17, 2008 (9:48 am)
The best thing I used is a Dremel, with a heavy duty fiber cut off disc. I've used the special shock tools, and the both broke. Shops usually burn 'em off with a torch. But I use my dremel just like a die grinder, and it's better to use the flexible extension. You'll cut the bolt/shaft right off, and away it goes. I'ver used my Dremel to cut a lot of rusted/stuck bolts off. It works great. Remember to use eye protection. The only thing is, if you will be trying to re-use the shock, then I'd soak it with some PB Blaster, or other means, use a bit of heat from a propane torch, then use a special front shock tool. K-D tools makes one as well as Lisle. O'
Rielly's sells one.
#81 of 120 lights flicker and click...HELP!!!
Jan 24, 2009 (12:19 am)
i have a 2000 dakota QC manul 6 cylinder. i replaced the battery recently. when i drive with my headlights on...the lights start flickering. (headlights, dashlights..pretty much all the lights) also i hear this clicking when the lights are flickering. when the car is off and just sitting there, i c in the headlight that there is a very dim light that is on. i have to 2 disconnect the battery so it wont drain my battery.
#84 of 120 New front struts on 06 4x4
Jan 25, 2009 (10:01 am)
I just came back from a test drive after replacing the front struts on my quad-cab
4x4. What a difference! The old struts only had 24,000 miles on them, but it's obvious now that they were shot.
The new struts have eliminated the floaty feeling I've hated since I bought the truck a few weeks ago.
I used Monroe 'Sensatrac' struts, which were pricey, but worth it.
If you've got access to a spring compressor; the job isn't too difficult, either.
#85 of 120 Edelbrock IAS is the very best
Jan 25, 2009 (11:50 am)
The 2006 dakota has STRUTS???? are you CERTAIN they are struts? (A "strut" also holds the wheel in alignment and controls camber.)
BTW: The very best shock absorbers for the Dakota are still the Edelbrock IAS (Inertia Active System). They are true MONOTUBE shock absorbers which are far superiour to the dual-tube desgn that the el-cheepos use.
I put Edelbrock IAS on my Dak within the 1st year of purchasing brand-new and have never regretted it. Not only does it RIDE better and not jump sideways over expansion-jounts... when I hit the brakes, my truck does not do a nose-dive. (Becasue IAS knows it is not a bump in the road and stiffens up the front shocks under braking)
#86 of 120 Re: Edelbrock IAS is the very best [bpeebles]
Jan 25, 2009 (1:28 pm)
'Strut' simply means the shock absorber and vehicle spring are built as one unit. Some struts DO play a part in camber and alignment, but not all. 2005 and newer Dakotas employ strut suspension for the front wheels.
I've only found two manufacturers of struts for these Dakotas: Monroe and Rancho.
The Rancos are said to 'stiffin' the ride considerably. I'm not an off-roader, so the Monroes were my preference.
I just hope they last longer than the originals did. (24,000 miles).
#87 of 120 Re: Edelbrock IAS is the very best [ESBY]
Jan 25, 2009 (6:01 pm)
Thanks for the info ESBY - I was not awre that Dodge went with struts on the newer Daks.
It is my experience that when there are not many aftermarket parts available... there may be a design flaw which the aftermarket folks do not want any part of.
For example, on my 2000 Dak, the balljoints were known to snap off. The very best balljoint manufacturer (Moog) did not list any replacement balljoints for many years... why? because the design put too much stress on the balljoints and they knew if they sold a replacemet, it would also snap.
Another example: My ol 1981 AMC Eagle would eat front shock-absorbers no matter what I installed... I ended up paying Midas to install "lifetime warantee" shocks....Midas ended up replacing those shocks at least 3 times for free. (I got my moneys-worth out of that)
Good luck with your new shocks... I hope they last the life of your Dak.