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Dodge Dakota Suspension and Axles

113 messages, Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 4:47 PM
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I have had my 2001 QC to the dealer three times to fix the rearend. I am now having to go back again. Original failure was Dec '04 |
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Replying to: dodge96 (Mar 24, 2008 8:10 pm) |
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I'm following instructions in a Haynes manual for removing the front shocks on my '93 Dodge Dakota. They mention removing the top nut of the front shock. However, I can't seem to really fit a wrench in that area. Also the nut and bolt look pretty rusted and I'm sure its going to take some muscle to break it loose. So for those of you that have replaced your front shocks on a 2WD dakota, what tool did you use to remove that top nut? Did you use a socket wrench with a long extension? Did you use an impact wrench? I'm welcome to any other advice you may have for removing the front shocks. Thanks!
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota extended cab 4X4, V8. I purchased it new. To make a long story short I have had my Dakota to two different dealerships and both have found water in my rear differential. Both dealerships also claim it is a “maintenance issue”. I believe it is a design or manufacturing defect that should be covered under the power train warranty. I know when I have water in my rear differential by kind of a “groaning” sound coming from the rear end. One of the mechanics who has worked on my Dakota has told me the “groaning” sound comes from the rear differential clutch plates not being properly lubricated because of the water. It has only been 5K to 6K miles since my last fluid change and I am getting the same old “groaning” sound out of my rear end so I know I have water in it again. I only have about 35K miles on my Dakota. Has anyone else had a similar experience with their Dakota? I live in the NW so NOT driving in wet conditions is NOT an option. I do not believe I have ever completely submerged the rear differential in standing water but we have had some extremely wet driving conditions here in the NW the last couple of years. I have two years left on my power train warranty and I am concerned that once the warranty expires I will all of a sudden be told that I need my rear differential repaired or replaced.
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Replying to: GrayDak (Dec 09, 2008 12:19 pm) Moisture can and will accumulate in a differential assembly through the vent...over time. As the differential assembly heats up, internal air is expelled through the vent. As it cools down, outside ambient air is drawn back in. Over many heating and cooling cycles, moisture will build up in the fluid from outside air. Routine differential lubricant changes will ensure that the moisture content never gets to a high enough level to cause lubrication problems. If this is happening in 6,000 miles I would have to say there's some other dynamic at work here. I would check the position of the vent hose and ensure there it is correctly positioned, free of cracks, and no signs of poor hose connections that might permit water from entering at a low point. I guess it is possible that excessive moisture can build up if this vehicle is predominately driven in high moisture environments. For example, if the truck sees duty on more rainy days than dry days, then this might cause your situation. It would be unusual in my experience, but not impossible. But you'd have to eliminate all other possibilities before you could confidently declare driving conditions as a cause. Regards, Dusty |
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Replying to: clintonb (Jul 28, 2008 7:32 am) Rielly's sells one. |
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hey guys... i have a 2000 dakota QC manul 6 cylinder. i replaced the battery recently. when i drive with my headlights on...the lights start flickering. (headlights, dashlights..pretty much all the lights) also i hear this clicking when the lights are flickering. when the car is off and just sitting there, i c in the headlight that there is a very dim light that is on. i have to 2 disconnect the battery so it wont drain my battery. plz help! |
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