Last post on Mar 04, 2013 at 5:14 AM
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Ford F-150, Engine, Truck
#129 of 182 1998 F150 4.2 V6 Coolant Loss
Jul 16, 2009 (6:15 pm)
I have a 98 F150 with 83K miles that is loosing or burning coolant. Uses something like one gallon in 1000 - 1500 miles.
There is no external leaking, no white smoke from the tailpipe, no rough idle or shaking during startup or normal driving. The only indication of loss is the coolant level in the reservoir.
The truck has been to two separate shops - one inde the other a Ford dealer - and neither can figure it out. It's in a Ford shop today in fact. Both have tried to pressure test the system with cold and hot engine with no result.
I seem to recall that early 4.2 V6 problems like mine were intake gaskets or head gaskets developing a small crack, allowing leaking when the engine got hot, and a trickle of coolant to burn off.
Anyone have any info on this problem? Since the truck is 11 years old, ya think it is worth the cash it will probably take to fix it, or should I just carry a gallon of anti-freeze and check the level often?
Any answers will be appreciated.
#130 of 182 Re: 1998 F150 4.2 V6 Coolant Loss [kcall2]
Jul 16, 2009 (7:49 pm)
Coolant can disapear for a variety of reasons. Fellow mechanics sometimes forget to check the dam radiator cap for leaks when pressure testing the system. You could have a leak in the water jacket somewhere ie head gasket ect. Here is an inexpensive solution. Temporarely remove thermostat. Purchase a product called BLUE DEVIL BLOCK SEALANT. Poor this in when engine is completely cold, (very important.). Run engine at least for an hour, you can even drive around with it in there. Put your thermostat back in at some point afterwards. No need to to drain coolant out or the remaining Blue Devil. I have had excelant results with this in the field. The Blue Devil is about $69.00 a bottle but well worth it, it works!! Availible at NAPA and Autozone. Good luck.
#131 of 182 Re: 1998 F150 4.2 V6 Coolant Loss [mickeymouse2]
Jul 17, 2009 (6:52 am)
Thanks, mick. I'll give it a try as soon as I can get the truck home and let it cool off.
I was hoping there was a product that worked to seal without a teardown and new gaskets. Had considered Barrs Leak, but as I remember, it only works on pinholes in radiator.
The folks on these forums are a wealth of great info!
#132 of 182 Re: So Disappointed [idctr]
Aug 19, 2009 (4:36 pm)
I think I can help you. I have had this problem on past vehicles. I now have a 2007 Ford F150 Crew Cab and it was doing some of the stuff you were describing. I bought a set of Bilstein heavy duty shocks for this truck. I put them on front and back and the driveability improved 100%. The shocks that were removed, you could compress with one hand very easily. They had no rebound on either front or back. The Bilstein shocks are nitrogen gas shocks. They were extremely hard to compress with both hands and had terrific rebound.
Now when you hit little bumps in the road the wheels don't jump or shake. It is extremely smooth on the highway. Drives like a new vehicle should. By the way my truck only has 7,500 miles on it. By the way new factory shocks would be of little value because they do the same thing as what you are taking off. I hope this helps you, it certainly helped me.
#133 of 182 2004 F150 engine vibration
Aug 20, 2009 (4:27 am)
Please focus on certain areas when these types of quirks develop.
550 rpms - shake (not miss), 1100 rpms - shake, 2200 rpms - shake.
Notice the rpms DOUBLE each time? Dead give away !
I can just about promise it is there at 4400 too.
This is an imbalance issue. Thrown Torque Convertor weight?
I've built racing and industrial, gas and diesel engines for 40 years.
I have a 85% all Light duty Ford Truck Fleet - nation wide
Now how to get the factory on board with recognizing this and fixing it?
#134 of 182 Engine backfiring/rough idle/vibrating
Sep 18, 2009 (7:15 pm)
Hi, is there anyone out there who can direct me to a good web site that can help me figure out why my 1978 f-150 400 4wd vibrates, backfires and holdsback. Just put new plugs, wires, distributor shaft, cap and rotor, and carb. Any suggestions. Has fairly new motor, with only 30,000 miles. When I reach about 30 miles an hour it begins to backfire, vibrate and hold back. Could it be timing is bad though it was just set about a year ago. Vaccum, carb? HELP!
#135 of 182 Re: 2006 F-150 Vibration worse when towing [tdmadmac]
Oct 03, 2009 (6:03 am)
do you have any more info on what is causing the vibration, I have a 2007 E150 in my shop with the same problem, vibration at 1800 rpm, I removed the torque converter and reinstalled the transmission and started the engine, vibration still there so it's definitely engine related. I replaced the harmonic balancer, no change. Any info would be appreciated, I think it's internal.
#136 of 182 Re: 2006 F-150 Vibration worse when towing [sammor]
Nov 06, 2009 (8:23 am)
I have the exact same vibration in my 03 navigator. Anybody solved this issue yet?
#137 of 182 Re: 2005-2007 F150 5.4 Engine vibration varified in 7 trucks [tdmadmac]
Dec 18, 2009 (11:21 pm)
I have the same problem. I just bought the truck used with 22,500 miles from a non-ford dealer with a 30 day warranty. So they took it to a ford dealer for diagnosis.
They kept if for two days and took apart fuel injectors. then they replied with the truck is normal. I think their full of it and are protecting the other dealer.
But I did sit in another F-150 on the lot with a 5.4 and it did the same thing?
Prior to this I took it to my regular mechanic and he ran into the same problem in a Crown Victoria. The problem is in the Torque converter. sludge build up and it make the torque converter out of balance? I am also experiencing a loud lifter noise, and the truck sounds like a Diesel too?
#138 of 182 Re: 1100RPM and Idle shake solved. (maybe) [sml175]
Feb 01, 2010 (9:27 am)
I have a very similar problem, except mine exists down at the 500rpm range and is quite intermittant. I'm having trouble with any help from Ford or ownership from Ford on this issue.
In our case, we have a rich condition, this turned out to be a broken roller cam after almost 20 hours of diagnostics. It was actually my idea to remove the valve cover. Anyway, new cam, roller lifer on bank 1. Then we developed the occasional P0012 problem, replaced VCT out of pure frustration, maybe a bit better but still there. All the work has been done at a Ford dealer because of time and weather in Wisconsin.
Does anyone have any ideas. The truck has 90K and we started out doing a simple spark plug exchange and 100K tuneup, now $3000 later, this is nuts.