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Mazda CX-7 Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

746 messages,  Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 10:14 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda CX-7, SUV


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#523 of 746
Re: [supershawn] by derrickson
Oct 02, 2008 (9:25 am)
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Replying to: supershawn (Sep 24, 2008 2:06 pm)

Hi Shawn,
Took your advice, and contacted Montgomery. Via 1st email, they quoted me $19.7K OTD, which equates to $18.5 for me (6.25 TX tax). Unfortunately, I'm located 1000 miles away!!! So debating my next move: $250 airfare + 16 hour drive / pay to have it shipped / take their quote, and see if anyone here will match/beat it. Thanks again for sharing your experience...
#524 of 746
Re: [supershawn] by oldfashioned
Oct 02, 2008 (9:42 am)
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Replying to: supershawn (Sep 23, 2008 6:27 pm)

The chicago deal has all but fell through, in the beginning I asked how much the aero package would be to add on( this was after he agreed to 7k off of the sticker) he said 1500. I thought that was outrageous because I can get it fro %295 on the internet.
 
So, I said I wouldnt be getting that, then he called back a couple days later saying the rebates had changed and he could only give us 6k off of the sticker.
 
My thoughts are this dude is playing me and was planning on recouping a grand but quoting me an outrageous price for the add on.
 
I cannot believe they are so stingy with an 08 vehicle that gets poor gas mileage.
 
I put a 500 deposit down on the car BEFORE he said the rebates changed; however, he said he cannot honar that because the car never was accepted.
 
What should I do?
#525 of 746
Re: [derrickson] by des5
Oct 03, 2008 (4:41 am)
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Replying to: derrickson (Oct 02, 2008 9:25 am)

The price you got is typical for a good dealer anywhere. Find the color you want in stock at a dealer near you, walk in with the email quote and ask them to do better.
#526 of 746
Re: [des5] by oldfashioned
Oct 03, 2008 (10:17 am)
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Replying to: des5 (Oct 03, 2008 4:41 am)

the 7k price?
#527 of 746
2008 Touring by jchilton25
Oct 03, 2008 (9:16 pm)
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Im in Texas and they are offering 6k rebate. So, I am looking at an 08 Touring (crystal white, so an extra charge of course). Equipped with Moonroof/BOSE/6 disc changer, compass and autodim mirror with Homelink and preferred equipment package. MSRP $28,380, destination charge (they have to get it from another dealer) $450....drive out $24,811 (TT&L inclusive). Does this sound like a good deal?
#528 of 746
$18,600 OTD for base sport by derrickson
Oct 04, 2008 (5:54 pm)
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hi everyone. well, finally pulled the trigger here in houston after much debate over price, mpg, other c-suv's (ie rav4, outlander, forester, rogue). many thanks to all that posted their experiences. made my 1st visit to a dlr, and sat in 1 for the 1st time tonight. today, the dealer had advertised $7K off 08 cx7's. this meant $17.4K for a $24.4 base sport, which i found hard to believe! i showed up 1 hour before close. was completely expecting them to do a switcheroo, say they were sold out of the promo, the promo was a typo, expired, etc, etc.
 
so during the test drive, the sales guy says, "dont know if you're aware, but right now we're taking $7K off our 08's." i didnt even have to mention the ad! i said, "ok, that sounds like a good price." we got back from the test drive, and he asked, "so were you just looking, or are are you wanting to write this up?" i told him to start the paperwork. he asked how i was paying, & b/c it was cash, they didnt need to run credit. 5 minutes later he walks back with the sales order. sure enough, $24,385 msrp was written up as -- $17,385 + TTL = $18,687.24 OTD.
 
obviously, a completely flawless transaction. will happily post the salesmans name & dealership after taking delivery monday. now, as long as they dont start offering $10K off msrp in a couple weeks, ill be a happy camper!
#529 of 746
Re: $18,600 OTD for base sport [derrickson] by des5
Oct 04, 2008 (7:06 pm)
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Replying to: derrickson (Oct 04, 2008 5:54 pm)

Congrats there. You did $800 better than me, but that's the difference a month can make.Here's how it works: FWD Sport with no options invoices for 22860 with destination. Take off 4000 finance discount, 1000 quota spiff, and 500 loyalty brings you to 17360. Or, the dealer's way of looking at it, 5500 discounts + 1500 invoice to sticker margin = 7000 off. Note that the dealer never takes a bath - there's still 475 holdback in there, and the sale may generate additional cumulative year-end spiffs. Also note that higher trims and options add a couple of hundred extra dollars in margin that with a flat "7K off" doesn't end up in your pocket without negotiating. That's why I always work from invoice down. This is still a very good reference point for future buyers.
#530 of 746
Re: $18,600 OTD for base sport [des5] by derrickson
Oct 05, 2008 (6:37 am)
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Replying to: des5 (Oct 04, 2008 7:06 pm)

Thanks des, and thanks for the explanation of the discounts. I agree about working back from invoice. My problem was that I had heard/read so many conflicting reports of the various discounts, & the amts, I was uncertain which ones to include in my "include this or Im outta here" price! I also wasn't up for haggling over the various discounts. For example, I dont own a Mazda, so technically would not qualify for 500 loyalty, even though it might be available to all. Overall we're content. I do need to remember your attitude about "the difference a month can make" when next we see someone post a $10K off invoice purchase!
#531 of 746
Re: [oldfashioned] by supershawn
Oct 05, 2008 (7:38 am)
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Replying to: oldfashioned (Sep 29, 2008 7:47 pm)

(sorry for the delay)
 
Wow! First of all, sounds like you were not only getting the deal, but getting it on a dealer exchange (DX). I am not as familiar with Mazda's process on this, but wow- good job. The only time either dealer really gets benefit from a DX is if 1) high demand vehicle with strong front end profit, 2) trading for a vehicle you REALLY need- maybe a first year you have low or no stock on or if you need to hit a minimum sales figure to qualify for next years inventory baselines.
 
Hail!? That dealer did the right thing (by walking away). Always say "Hail No!!" to a hail car. They look good on a sunny lot, even better if there is a light mist in the air, but wait until you see it under a fluorescent light. Plus, depending on the state, it's permanently on the title.
 
I only had one experience with a hail storm on the lot, but it was bad (East coast, near the water, not a lot of hail). Every car (250-300) received a fair amount of damage,
 
Every state is different, but for us (MD/DE/VA), we had to disclose hail damage (not in ad's, but on buyers order and addendum sheet) on all NEW vehicles. Used didn't matter.
 
At that time, we had 5% money (end of year), strong incentives, and about 20% insurance money on each car. It was a strong 2 months for profit, but I didn't like selling them. John Doe may not see/care, but once you've noticed, you see it every time. I haven't bought a used car without being able to see it under a straight tube fluorescent light (easiest way in my opinion- just sight the overhead bulb reflection and follow it, if that straight bulb gets a sudden bend in one spot, Bobs your uncle) since.
 
Not sure how your deal got that far without disclosure, but very happy you didn't get a hail car.
#532 of 746
Re: $18,600 OTD for base sport [derrickson] by supershawn
Oct 05, 2008 (7:58 am)
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Replying to: derrickson (Oct 05, 2008 6:37 am)

Agreed. A lot of discussion (including mine) has been talking about "$x off sticker", but you should always work from invoice. Invoice "is" the actual initial cost to the dealer (but you have floor plan incentives, marketing incentives, etc, etc). And not all dealers want to work that way. Honestly. I preferred it even when I was involved in sales. Everything is laid out on the table, there's no "trade for" baloney or showing extra for the trade to make them happy so they don't argue about the price (don't be sentimental about the car you are trading in, it will cost you money!). Just be honest when from the get go, if you have a trade, tell them you want to deal "wholesale to wholesale'- you want an independent prices for your trade and the vehicle you are buying.
 
Just realize three things and you'll get a "good deal" every time:
- Your trade isn't worth what you think it is. Yes, I know, you just put tires on it, and wipers, and a battery....it just doesn't matter. Sorry. the new buyer won;t pay extra either.
- A "good deal" isn't always the drop dead best price. You need service, will they give you a loaner (get it in writing, even if just on the "we owe" sheet), look at reviews for the dealership. A "good dealer" will get you every incentive he can if it doesn't affect his bottom line. Rebates and factor cash (like loyalty money) doesn't go to him anyway, he should want you to have it if he cares bout his customers.
- The dealer HAS to make a profit. C'mon, no matter what you think of dealers, it's a business. And the market isn't doing well. And you want them to be there when you need service. And the salesman has a family too. Now, that profit should be fair, and that's what you negotiate.

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