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3rd Generation Toyota 4Runners 1996 to 2002

100 messages, Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 1:39 PM
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I just bought a '96 4runner with 150k miles. It's a 5 speed and I noticed right off the bat that in order to start the car the clutch has to pushed in very hard to get the engine to crank. Is there an adjustment of the switch that won't allow the engine to crank unless the clutch is depressed? I know I can override the clutch-in-to-start feature with the button on the dash.
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mine is the same way. I have wondered the same thing idly as long as I have owned it, but it has never been a problem to start so I never got beyond the idle wondering stage. If it were replaced, I wonder if the new one would be the same way. Certainly on other models that I have worked on with clutch safety switches like this one, there has been no adjustment for the switch. Wow, so we 3rd-genners now have our own thread and everything? Cool. |
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99 4Runner Limited, v6. The check engine light keeps coming on. I had the codes read and it came up with a PO171 which they said was 'System Too Lean Bank 1'. The parts store said to replace the oxygen sensor before the cat. I changed it and the light comes back on after about 20 miles. The truck seems to run fine. It has 77k miles. Any ideas what this could be. I don't want to keep changing parts. |
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Replying to: boluca (Mar 31, 2006 2:53 pm) Granted, O2 sensors are the most likely component to fail, there is still other things to look at. Clogged/dirty injectors can create all sorts of drivability problems even though the vehicle seems to run OK. Have you ever had the injectors cleaned? If not, go to your local Target or auto parts store and find a product called Chevron Techron Fuel Injection Cleaner. It's the best out there! Run your tank almost empty and add the cleaner (per instructions) and fill your tank with a good premium gas; Amoco Ultimate works well. Drive till the tank is close to empty and see if this corrects the problem. An "open" or a "short" in the heated O2 sensor (sensor 1/bank 1) circuit can cause this code. Mass Air Flow meter can also generate this code along with a faulty or weak Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. Find someone with a decent scanner that can read the wave pattern of an O2 sensor to make sure it's operating correctly. Also check the circuit for "opens" or "shorts". Do the same for the Coolant and Mass Air Flow sensors. Good luck and hope this helped!
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Replying to: bobgordon (Mar 31, 2006 4:45 pm) |
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Replying to: jshoes51 (Mar 21, 2006 8:03 pm) |
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Replying to: jshoes51 (Mar 21, 2006 8:03 pm)
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Replying to: blackrunner (Apr 09, 2006 9:52 pm) I also wonder why you don't have to push the clutch down as hard now as before - is it because you didn't use a Toyota clutch kit? And what did you repalce in the clutch job? Just the pressure plate, or other stuff too? Lastly, you say it chatters when you are out of gear, or "in gear and not on the gas but as soon as you touch the pedal it goes away". If you are in gear but not on the gas, you must have the clutch out, right? So you are already touching the pedal. Or did you mean the gas pedal? I have noticed that when mine is idling in neutral, no feet on any pedals, the transmission (specifically the clutch throw-out bearing, I suspect) is not totally silent, but I wouldn't call the sound it makes a "chatter". It is more like a slight whistle, for lack of a better word. |
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Replying to: boluca (Mar 31, 2006 2:53 pm) |
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