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2nd Generation Toyota 4Runners (90-95)

96 messages,  Last post on May 04, 2013 at 10:41 PM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota 4Runner, SUV

Messages Page 7 of 10

#59 of 96 speed up my g/f slow 4runner by r2_4runners

Aug 04, 2007 (12:11 am)

My g/f has a 1990 toyota 4runner with the 4cyl engine that has 198,000 miles on it. It runs strong but is slow as can be, it struggles to get up to speed, hills are a joke, we live at the top of one, and the automatic trans seems to shift at awkward speeds ie; in 3rd gear by 20mph and is stubborn about downshifting to get more power. It is the truck that thinks it has more torque than it does. A mechanic friend mentioned altering the timing for more power. I also heard of larger injectors being put in but you have to upgrade other things also. Any advice four a not so expensive way to increase some horsepower, or to make it shift at higher speeds?

#60 of 96 Automatic Transmission fluid leak by dteich

Aug 04, 2007 (5:12 am)

I just bought a 1995 4Runner with only 79K miles. I love this truck. On the 1st day it starts leaking tranny fluid. Has this happend to anyone else? Any idea where it might be coming from?

#61 of 96 Re: speed up my g/f slow 4runner [r2_4runners] by toy4run

Aug 04, 2007 (8:35 am)

Replying to: r2_4runners (Aug 04, 2007 12:11 am)
I had a 1992 4runner with a 4 cyl 4wd 5speed, it wasnt fast then and we lived near hills aswell sometimes i would have to put it into 3rd gear just to get over the hill at 55 mph. I looked for stuff to improve the engine power but found none. www.lcengineering.com is a great site for 4cyl upgrades and stuff but they may not be cheap.

#62 of 96 1995 toyota 4 runer by ignacioaza

Sep 18, 2007 (8:32 pm)

it starts good runs decent not much punch power, recently it it would run a little while then at a stop light it would stall and start right up keep running then it would start to act like it would shoke, it may stall and start with little trouble till it would just stall and would not start till it seemed to cool off, a mechanic could not find the problem, he replace a couple of sensors but it did not fix the problem, he said he gave up I paid $400.00 for this and still the problem is there. Please help.">

#63 of 96 Looking to buy a 95 V6 4runner 4wd and... by keiper

Sep 20, 2007 (11:58 am)

It has significant rust underneath and the muffler needs to be completely replaced. Interior is great, engine seems to run fine and has been maintained. Not sure of towing history, but what else do I need to look out for under the hood at 188,000 miles. They are asking $3800. I mean the rust is so bad underneath that the wheel on the spare is about shot...
 
Is the rust something that can be easily repaired without spending too much?
 
Thanks for any ideas...
 
Matt

#64 of 96 removal car radio by carnoob101

Nov 11, 2007 (5:30 pm)

i would like to know how to remove my car radio; step by step; it's a 1993 toyota 4runner SR5.
 
if anyone knows how to please email me promptly.
jrhay2000hotmail.com

#65 of 96 Re: removal car radio [carnoob101] by Stever@Edmunds HOST

Nov 11, 2007 (5:52 pm)

Replying to: carnoob101 (Nov 11, 2007 5:30 pm)
Crutchfield.com or Installdr.com may help until an owner shows up and responds. More general links are in the Online Repair Manuals Guide.

#66 of 96 Re: speed up my g/f slow 4runner [r2_4runners] by don_courmier

Nov 12, 2007 (3:43 am)

Replying to: r2_4runners (Aug 04, 2007 12:11 am)
the cheapest thing I could think would be to get more air flow into the engine.
 
try driving it for a short distance with the air cleaner unhooked so its getting straight air.Dont do it in a dusty condition or for very long or you might get crud inside the engine.But for a short test to see if it will make an improvement before doing anything more it should be fine.
 
Disconnect the air filter from the throttle body and try driving it to see if more air helps. it it does then consider spending the $30 to get a high flow air filter set up.
 
thats all I can think of for cheap horses.
 
I stuck a high energy cam in my 89 with a 22re and man did that help alot.I was so happy with the way it felt, but within less than 1 year my timing chain started rattling like they do on these engines, instead of instally metal timing chain guides I just got rid of the truck.
 
The timing chain guides last alot longer if you just let the engine get up to speeds nice and easy, dont try and force the engine to get you to a speed.Who cares how fast you can go when your paying less for the fuel to move you down the road, thats all that really matters when it comes down to it.That the vehicle moves you down the road and gets you to your destination.The 22re in a 4runner is one of the top 3 for gas consuption, but you cant expect it to get good mileage and last forever if you force the engine to work past what it feels comfortable doing.If your making it go quick when it really just wants to slowly crawl to a speed, your just ruining it. You can tell if your overdoing it by feeling the engine working and only giving it just enough gas pedal to make it gradually get up to a speed.
 
The V6 version is worse on gas than a fullsize chevy blazer 4x4 is...chevy blazer 15MPG with a 350 auto
toyota 4runner 14MPG with 3.0 V6 auto trans... if you get a 4runner with a 3.0 auto...you might aswell go get yourself a chevy blazer fullsize.

#67 of 96 Parking Brake Cable by tylerh1

Nov 14, 2007 (5:15 pm)

Does anyone have the skinny on replacing a parking brake cable? 1994 4runner v6, 4wd, manual......Pulled it out the other day and it just went completely slack.

#68 of 96 90 toyota 4R,V6, Auto. 4WD Engine problem by jzim1

Nov 15, 2007 (8:28 pm)

My 4R, has 190,000 its in good condition. I recently developed a problem with the engine. It stumbles as you accelerate. It starts fine but it idles at 1500rpm when its cold. The stumbling seems worse when its cold but it also stumbles when its hot. At times you can go down the road 60-70 with no problem, there is no back firing or popping. It also idles at about 1100-1200 rpm when hot in neutral or park. In gear like in D it idles at 800-1000 rpm. I have done the plugs, wires.fuel filter, cap & rotor. My EGR valve has no vacuum coming to it. If I get vacuum to it from a different source I can get it to get very hot. So my EGR valve never seems to feel warm or hot so I do not think its working properly. Where does the vacuum come from that makes the EGR function.? I also checked the EGR modual and I cannot really tell if its working. My hood sticker is missing so i don't know the proper idle settings or timing degrees.I have not done a compression check because the plugs are so hard to get to. I have not checked the fuel injectors because they are also so darn hard to get to. How do you check the fuel pressure there is no place to hook up a gauge. Any ideas would be welcome.

Messages Page 7 of 10

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