Last post on Nov 15, 2013 at 8:17 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck
#10 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [hoodlatch]
Jul 16, 2006 (4:29 pm)
Yes, I did ensure the timing marks on the camshaft gear and crank gear were aligned with the marks that so happen to be on the tensioner itself. Since the post, I have pulled the timing cover off and rechecked that to make sure. Then, for the sake of curiosity to see if I was out of time 180 degrees, I lined up the marks on the gears, then turned the crank one complete turn, which put the cam gear at one half turn OFF the mark, pulled the gear and chain off and realigned the camshaft so my camshaft gear would be properly aligned once again with the crank and reassembled everything. It started up and ran the exact same way....like hell. SO, I ended doing a compression check and found that cylinders 3 and 4 were zero. I called the local chevy dealer and they said that the 2.2 is NOT an interference engine, however, there have been incidences where there have been contact between pistons and valves. I think it was because i was rolling along at 65 mph.
I just got the head back from the machine shop with a full valve job. They replaced 4 bent valves on cylinders 3 and 4.
I have never done a timing chain or belt on a distributorless engine. It's weird not being able to see which cylinder my distributor is supposedly firing on.
Any tips on this?
#11 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [chacon64]
Jul 16, 2006 (4:31 pm)
Your timing on the 2.2 according to the Chiltons manual is not adjustable because it is computer controlled. No timing adjustment is necessary or possible.
#12 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [vikan]
Jul 20, 2006 (6:10 am)
Distributor out, crank sensor in, time marches on. Progress takes time to adjust. Remember when we use to get the tack/dwell meter out and fidget with duel points?
Sounds like your 2.2 is one of those projects that turns into never ending, where one thing leads to another, fun, fun, fun. That's usually my story.
Were the tops of the pistons and push rods ok? Did the machine shop change out the valve stem seals with new ones while they were in there? I had to replace mine last summer (seals) because it was puffing smoke on start up. I did mine with heads on but its alot simpler if you already have the heads off.
#13 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [hoodlatch]
Jul 22, 2006 (7:20 pm)
I took the head in and got a valve job as well as replaced 4 valves (on cylinder positions 3 & 4). No bent pushrods and the pistons were barely touched although you could see where the contact was made. The bent valves on the intake side were visible with the naked eye while still mounted in the head but the exhaust valves that were bent was so slight, you could only see it when the valves were out and on the bench. Cost: $278 at the local NAPA machine shop which I've used before.
I'm still hesistant on the whether or not I should have the number 1 piston at TDC when my timing marks on the crank and camgear are aligned properly. If no timing adjustment is possible, doesn't it make sense to just line up the gears and let her run? I'm thinking that the crank sensor is what compensates for the advance/retard on the timing.
I do remember messing with tach and dwell meters with the old point ignitions. I also remember sync'ing carbs every weekend as well....don't miss it!
My sonoma HAS been an ongoing project. I've got but a few pages left in the manual that hasn't been touched. The brightest side to this vehicle is 1) handy little truck 2)excellent gas mileage....and 3.... well ...two out of three isn't bad huh? hahaha...
I'm looking at a 2001 Nissan Frontier as a primary driver now and will keep the SON-O-MA Bleep as a spare. Sad...yes I know.
thanks for the input!
#14 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [vikan]
Jul 24, 2006 (1:25 pm)
Looks to me you're on top of your game with your Sonoma project. The procedure you described is the way I would go about it also. I'm not a 2.2 engineer but I would have to assume timing is orientated around #1 cylinder. Therefore, my assumption would be, with timing dots on cam and crank coming in alignment at the same time #1 is coming up on compression (TDC)then you got it nailed. Being a shade tree mechanic I haven't gotten into any exotic machinery yet like Variable Valve Timing and Lift but the 2.2 seems fairly basic. Maybe someone else out there in edmunds.com land can answer that one for us.
My 92 S-10 is also an ongoing project. Like you said they're handy to have for occasional chores and putzen around. At present I'm going round and round with the fuel pump relay signal from ECM. The pump works fine, the relay works fine (new), but no voltage from the ECM. I took the ECM out of the dash and fondled and caressed it for awhile. I even removed & plugged back in it's removable chip. After determining there wasn't anything I could do to make it feel better I put the ECM back. What's bizarre is when I jump the relay to activate the pump, I then get signal voltage from the ECM. I'm at the point now to where I'm going to install a toggle switch and indicator light in the dash until the real problem surfaces. The truck runs good when I jump the relay.
My son had a 03 Frontier with turbo. He liked the power but had poor fuel mileage. He traded for 05 Frontier 4dr, 4.0L, 6sp manual. He said it gets 25mpg on hiway and plenty of zip.
Good luck &
Keep' em Trucking
#15 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [hoodlatch]
Jul 26, 2006 (1:09 pm)
Well, I finally got my Sonoma up and running on sunday. I stuck with the game plan and it worked. That thing runs quieter now than when I first bought it used. I'm happy with the outcome but am still purchasing the 2001 4 cyl frontier for a mere 9K 55K miles. You know, after looking back at it, it wasn't a very hard job. There were a few things I would have done differently but that's in the category of poor planning for me. Like bolting the EGR valve and plate to the head BEFORE I installed the head. Also, I'd surely bolt up the fuel line that connects to the rack towards the back of the head also. Those were the two most things that made me say bad words. hahah.. Well, it's all done now and I'm glad. I did set the #1 piston to compression stroke and once again, checked the timing marks on the crank and cam gear to ensure they were right. Fired up with no problem.
You talk about your fuel pump on the 92. Well, I had a very weird encounter with mine on this same truck. About a year ago, I'd be driving and it would suddenly lose power where it would only idle. I immediately thought my fuel pump (in tank) quit. However, If I shut off the engine and restarted it, it ran fine for another couple miles and do the same thing. So, I shut it down, turned the key on to listen to the fuel pump prime up. I sounded fine. Then I thought to change the fuel filter thinking a big piece of something might be making its way up to the filter to block the passage of fuel and when I shut it down, it floated away far enough for it to pass fuel once again. Keep in mind, I had an 88 S-10 blazer that had a fuel pump quit on me. So, I figured if the fuel pump ran, it was fine. I was under the impression that the in tank pump either runs or it doesn't run at all. Wrong. I finally tapped into the fuel line by using a T fitting just after the fuel filter so I could eliminate that possibility as well and duct taped a pressure gage to my drivers side window. Lo and behold, when I lost power, the gage would be steadily dropping to zero. I'd pull over, shut it off and restart and shazam! The pressure gage would read 40 lbs or so of pressure once again. I changed the in tank pump and all it's attachments that were hooked to it while it sits in the tank and all was well. So, I learned that those in tank pumps can get weak / hot / and sort of work and not necessarily just quit altogether. That one threw me for a loop. To change it was pretty simple. I unbolted the bed, disconnected a few wires and semi spun the bed to gain access to the tank, then pulled out the old pump and put in the new. Pretty simple. Later on, I talked to one of the chevrolet mechanics and he told me that the best policy is to keep a half tank of fuel in it to help with the cooling of the pump. So, I pretty much do if I can help it. It's better to see a 15 or 20 dollar tab at the pump nowadays anyway instead of the 30 to 40 dollar tab it takes to fill up. hahah... Makes ME feel better anyway.
Thanks for the responses. Let me know how your fuel problem comes out. I'm curious to hear what happens.
#16 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [vikan]
Jul 29, 2006 (9:07 am)
Got my S-10 running again. It purrs like a kitten. As it turns out it was like you said, the fuel pump. I too thought that with electric fuel pumps they either worked or didn't, like a light bulb. That's what threw me for a loop. Well, it's all behind me now. On to bigger and better things. A side note; if I had it to do over again I would have went about it the way you did by detaching the bed and sliding it out of the way. I used the procedure outlined in the book and dropped the fuel tank from the bottom. That was a wooly booger to deal with, but I persevered. I believe that to be a successful DIY'er sometimes you need to be stubborn as a weed and hang in there. Of course there is that 10% rule, you know, where one needs to be 10% smarter than the equipment there working on. Ha Ha The 10% rule is what trips me up. That's where these forums help me wether I'm working on cars, trucks, or tractors as to where someone else out there has been down that road ahead.
Keep the faith!
#17 of 240 Re: S10 1995 2.2 JUST DIE / pls help [hoodlatch]
Jul 30, 2006 (9:05 pm)
I'm happy to hear you're back on the road again. What ever way you got the pump changed, the results are good right? When I did mine, my tank was over half full so I knew I had to try something different. Yes the 10% rule does come in handy. haha.. I have done a lot of reading on these forums to see if people out there have had the same symptoms and problem that I'm experiencing and have had some success. I really enjoyed conversing with someone like you who just by reading what you write, i can trust the suggestions and advice and actually understand the train of thought. I thank you very much. Since this last problem with my truck, i've gotten on Ebay and purchased the full factory service manual set from a guy that is brand new for 20 bucks. Yes, I am anticipating more problems with this kitten. hahah.. Thanks again Hoodlatch. Don't hesitate to write if you have any question I may be able to help you with. My main job is computers so I can help with that too.
#18 of 240 1993 S-10 4.3 dies at idle problem
May 31, 2006 (8:45 am)
#19 of 240 1993 S-10 4.3 dies at idle problem
May 31, 2006 (8:45 am)
Recently my truck has began to die when coming back down to idle. In looking at the fuel injection, I can see the injectors stop injecting fuel. After it dies, it is very hard to restart unless it is left alone and cools a bit. If the IAC is unplugged, the engine will run at high idle fine. When plugged back in, the correct idle resumes and it may run a few seconds or a minute before it dies. I am getting fuel to the injectors. Any ideas on what is wrong?