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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying issues
168 messages, Last post on Nov 02, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: s100614 (Mar 15, 2006 4:44 am) |
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Replying to: s100614 (Mar 15, 2006 4:44 am) Yesterday, I tore it down and my suspicion was correct. The broken chain sat at the bottom of the timing cover. I replaced the set as well as the tensioner. I started it up and it ran except it ran terribly. It's like the engine timing is severely retarded. I am suspecting that I am out of time by 180 degrees. My chiltons book did not tell me how to go about replacing a "broken" chain. It only has instructions on how to "replace" a chain which would mean the timing marks would be correct once you got the timing cover off and looked at it. I can't find any information on how to re-establish timing for this engine. It is distributor-less so I am stumped. If you are attempting to replace the timing gear/chain set, let me know and I'll send you some tips on what I've learned during the tear down of the front side of this motor. vi-kan |
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Replying to: vikan (Jul 09, 2006 8:13 am) Good luck.
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Replying to: vikan (Jul 09, 2006 8:13 am)  Hello:Would you please help me with this,i am re-building a 2.2 lt from my 1995 chevrolet s10,and i donīt know where to find the timing marks?. I bought the truck with a dissembled engine,also i am a mechanic. I live in chile,please send me some of your tips? Thank you. Rodrigo.
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Jul 14, 2006 5:45 am) I just got the head back from the machine shop with a full valve job. They replaced 4 bent valves on cylinders 3 and 4. I have never done a timing chain or belt on a distributorless engine. It's weird not being able to see which cylinder my distributor is supposedly firing on. Any tips on this? thanks, vi-kan
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Replying to: chacon64 (Jul 16, 2006 12:42 pm) vi-kan |
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Replying to: vikan (Jul 16, 2006 4:29 pm) Distributor out, crank sensor in, time marches on. Progress takes time to adjust. Remember when we use to get the tack/dwell meter out and fidget with duel points? Sounds like your 2.2 is one of those projects that turns into never ending, where one thing leads to another, fun, fun, fun. That's usually my story. Were the tops of the pistons and push rods ok? Did the machine shop change out the valve stem seals with new ones while they were in there? I had to replace mine last summer (seals) because it was puffing smoke on start up. I did mine with heads on but its alot simpler if you already have the heads off. Good luck.
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Jul 20, 2006 6:10 am) I took the head in and got a valve job as well as replaced 4 valves (on cylinder positions 3 & 4). No bent pushrods and the pistons were barely touched although you could see where the contact was made. The bent valves on the intake side were visible with the naked eye while still mounted in the head but the exhaust valves that were bent was so slight, you could only see it when the valves were out and on the bench. Cost: $278 at the local NAPA machine shop which I've used before. I'm still hesistant on the whether or not I should have the number 1 piston at TDC when my timing marks on the crank and camgear are aligned properly. If no timing adjustment is possible, doesn't it make sense to just line up the gears and let her run? I'm thinking that the crank sensor is what compensates for the advance/retard on the timing. I do remember messing with tach and dwell meters with the old point ignitions. I also remember sync'ing carbs every weekend as well....don't miss it! My sonoma HAS been an ongoing project. I've got but a few pages left in the manual that hasn't been touched. The brightest side to this vehicle is 1) handy little truck 2)excellent gas mileage....and 3.... well ...two out of three isn't bad huh? hahaha... I'm looking at a 2001 Nissan Frontier as a primary driver now and will keep the SON-O-MA Bleep as a spare. Sad...yes I know. thanks for the input! vi-kan
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Replying to: vikan (Jul 22, 2006 7:20 pm) My 92 S-10 is also an ongoing project. Like you said they're handy to have for occasional chores and putzen around. At present I'm going round and round with the fuel pump relay signal from ECM. The pump works fine, the relay works fine (new), but no voltage from the ECM. I took the ECM out of the dash and fondled and caressed it for awhile. I even removed & plugged back in it's removable chip. After determining there wasn't anything I could do to make it feel better I put the ECM back. What's bizarre is when I jump the relay to activate the pump, I then get signal voltage from the ECM. I'm at the point now to where I'm going to install a toggle switch and indicator light in the dash until the real problem surfaces. The truck runs good when I jump the relay. My son had a 03 Frontier with turbo. He liked the power but had poor fuel mileage. He traded for 05 Frontier 4dr, 4.0L, 6sp manual. He said it gets 25mpg on hiway and plenty of zip. Good luck & Keep' em Trucking
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Jul 24, 2006 1:25 pm) Well, I finally got my Sonoma up and running on sunday. I stuck with the game plan and it worked. That thing runs quieter now than when I first bought it used. I'm happy with the outcome but am still purchasing the 2001 4 cyl frontier for a mere 9K  55K miles. You know, after looking back at it, it wasn't a very hard job. There were a few things I would have done differently but that's in the category of poor planning for me. Like bolting the EGR valve and plate to the head BEFORE I installed the head. Also, I'd surely bolt up the fuel line that connects to the rack towards the back of the head also. Those were the two most things that made me say bad words. hahah.. Well, it's all done now and I'm glad. I did set the #1 piston to compression stroke and once again, checked the timing marks on the crank and cam gear to ensure they were right. Fired up with no problem. You talk about your fuel pump on the 92. Well, I had a very weird encounter with mine on this same truck. About a year ago, I'd be driving and it would suddenly lose power where it would only idle. I immediately thought my fuel pump (in tank) quit. However, If I shut off the engine and restarted it, it ran fine for another couple miles and do the same thing. So, I shut it down, turned the key on to listen to the fuel pump prime up. I sounded fine. Then I thought to change the fuel filter thinking a big piece of something might be making its way up to the filter to block the passage of fuel and when I shut it down, it floated away far enough for it to pass fuel once again. Keep in mind, I had an 88 S-10 blazer that had a fuel pump quit on me. So, I figured if the fuel pump ran, it was fine. I was under the impression that the in tank pump either runs or it doesn't run at all. Wrong. I finally tapped into the fuel line by using a T fitting just after the fuel filter so I could eliminate that possibility as well and duct taped a pressure gage to my drivers side window. Lo and behold, when I lost power, the gage would be steadily dropping to zero. I'd pull over, shut it off and restart and shazam! The pressure gage would read 40 lbs or so of pressure once again. I changed the in tank pump and all it's attachments that were hooked to it while it sits in the tank and all was well. So, I learned that those in tank pumps can get weak / hot / and sort of work and not necessarily just quit altogether. That one threw me for a loop. To change it was pretty simple. I unbolted the bed, disconnected a few wires and semi spun the bed to gain access to the tank, then pulled out the old pump and put in the new. Pretty simple. Later on, I talked to one of the chevrolet mechanics and he told me that the best policy is to keep a half tank of fuel in it to help with the cooling of the pump. So, I pretty much do if I can help it. It's better to see a 15 or 20 dollar tab at the pump nowadays anyway instead of the 30 to 40 dollar tab it takes to fill up. hahah... Makes ME feel better anyway. Thanks for the responses. Let me know how your fuel problem comes out. I'm curious to hear what happens. Good luck!
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