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Autoride Suspension

62 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 1:34 PM
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I dont pull boats or anything like that..... just a small to med trailer. My question is can i just replace the shocks with regular shocks and avoid the auto ride system? Thanks!!!
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Replying to: marcthomas1 (Mar 01, 2009 11:21 am) |
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| I've replaced air compressor which took care of the squirily ride in the rear. Now, I have a hard, stiff ride in the front. I don't believe the shocks are bad, could my problem be the ride sensors? That's the name I've given them. They are approx. 2-3 inch square looking, micro-switch type sensor mounted to the frame, & have a small arm connected to the upper A-frame. I'm assuming they control the ride adjustment to the front shocks, electronicly. Does anyone out there in computer land have any suggestions, & is this device available from the dealer only???? | |
bought a 01 burb a while back , i have never heard the pump running,,,, no problem i thought i will fix it when i get time. i drove i today ,when i started it up i heard a clicking from front shock and when i drove it what a mess wheel hop and shock dive in the front . can i replace the shock selinoid or is it total shock replacement?and are 06 parts interchangeable i might hit the local salvage yard.
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Replying to: 1967chevy (Oct 08, 2009 11:55 am) - A pump, which is able to pump up air pressure. - A vehicle height sensor on each wheel, which measures the distance between the frame and the axle. - An air shock, on each wheel - A solenoid (for each wheel), which will either stay shut (holding the air in the shock), open-out (open to allow the air out of the shock), open-in (open to allow the pump to pump up the shock pressure). - Some brains to monitor the heights, turn the pump on/off, and open/close the solenoids. - Some air tubing, which runs from the pump and solenoids out to the shocks. So before you go randomly replacing parts......What's not working in your system?
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 08, 2009 12:59 pm)
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Replying to: 1967chevy (Oct 08, 2009 2:30 pm) Shock dampening, is to resist all change. The shock dampening should want to slow the ability for shock to be depressed, and slow the ability for the shock to be extended.
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 08, 2009 3:24 pm)
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Replying to: 1967chevy (Oct 08, 2009 7:42 pm) Forget about the air piece of this, to start with. It is an hydraulic shock. The dampening effect, keeps the shock from extending out too fast, and closing too fast. Go to an autoparts store, and try to pull open a new shock, it is very hard to pull out. Try to compress it, it is very hard to compress. If you tried that with a worn bad shock, you would be able to pull the shock open, and close it easily. A bad shock provides reduced dampening effect. If your shock is defective from a standard shock perspective, the tire will bounce all over the place. You need that hydraulic dampening effect to keep the tire on the road. The height of your vehicle is determined by your springs. If you put in stronger springs, your height would be higher. Your shock would remain the same, still dampening up and down. Now lets treat it like the air lift shock that it is. The air lift is the same as if you put in stronger springs. When the air is pumped up it will lift the vehicle up. The lift piece, is different than the hydraulic dampening piece. If I go out in my Suburban, with the car off and sitting in the driveway, and then start loading it up with suitcases, people or stuff, it starts to squat down lower. If I then start the vehicle, you'll hear the pump turn on, and then see the vehicle raise up to level again. When it gets to level, the pump turns off. If your dampening is bad, the hydraulic shock is bad. If you are hearing the solenoids open and close, you should also hear the pump turn on.....as indicated in previous note. You may have two or more separate problems (e.g. bad shock, and bad pump, or bad sensor, or bad solenoid, or leaking hose. These shocks are not cheap.
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 08, 2009 8:26 pm)
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