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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Autoride Suspension
57 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 1:58 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: 1967chevy (Oct 12, 2009 4:44 pm) Make sure you cap off the line that was going up to the front shocks. Whatever resistor you chose, would designate that the pump has to let air into or out of those lines. You need to have a closed air system at whatever resistor you chose, otherwise the pump might run all of the time....trying to 'pump up' an empty line and never being able to get the reported resistance to change.
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 12, 2009 5:11 pm) How did you determine what resistor to put in the line? Only if you put in the resistor that matched the target 'normal' resistance the controller was looking for, would your solution work. As an example, let's say (hypothetically) that the target resistance was 1,000 ohms. If the resistor you chose was different than the target, then the control would open the solenoid and either let air out of the system, or pump air into the system, to try and get the reported resistance up to the target resistance. Since in your case you have some fixed resistor, the controller would never be able to achieve the target. If you chose a resistor with the wrong resistance one way, the pump would run continuously trying to pump it up. If you chose a resistor with the wrong resistance the other way, the solenoid would be constantly energized and open all the time trying to let the air out. Only if you chose the resistor 'just right', would the controller be happy, and faked out to think the vehicle was at the correct height. In that situation it would not try to pump up the line to the shock, or release air from that line. So your random resistor might have been okay to turn the error light off, but it may be the wrong resistor and cause the pump to run continuously, or the solenoid to be energized continuously. |
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| the fronts are or were factory electronic dampend with no air lines so nothing to cap, just replaced with conventional kyb shocks, as far as the ohm measure ment i measured the old factory shock and was getting about 22.5 ohms so i bought 22 ohm resistors. i found that info on a previous thread but still checked it for myself . I hope it wont affect the pump , I have orderd a pump and bilstien replacements for the rear from Arnott ind with life time warrenty on them , i will get them installed this weekend and will let you know in about a week if things are working properly, if it does the whole thing will cost me less than $700 USD. | |
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bought an 01 Suburban a few months ago and it does not level out with a load in or on it. Where do I start to know what to replace?
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Replying to: 85suburban (Oct 15, 2009 9:43 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 15, 2009 9:48 am)
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Replying to: 85suburban (Oct 15, 2009 9:54 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 16, 2009 8:38 am)
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Replying to: 85suburban (Oct 19, 2009 12:15 pm) Well, glad you got it figured out and repaired! |
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I recently replaced the compressor for the rear shocks. They work fine now. The front shocks are giving me a rough, stiff ride now. There are no loose bolts, no leaks, & when jumping on front bumper, the car returns to normal position right away. This makes me think the shocks are OK. An electrical connection to the top of the shock mounting bolt, I assume is part of the Auto Ride. Can anyone help me out on this problem. Should I replace the shocks or is the computer telling the shocks to adjust for road conditions or ???? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love this car, it just went over 100k miles. It's Victory Red & has the #88 on the rear glass. |
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