Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 4:11 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Suburban, SUV
#93 of 102 Re: New Shocks Worse Than Original [turkey1]
Apr 18, 2012 (7:03 am)
If we can follow up with your dealership on this, please email socialmediagm.com with the following information: your name/Edmunds username, current phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and approximate mileage, and the name of the involved dealership.
Look forward to hearing from you,
GM Customer Service
#95 of 102 New Shocks Worse Than Original
Apr 18, 2012 (9:07 am)
I sent email.
#96 of 102 Auto ride question
Jun 16, 2012 (7:18 am)
Does any body know what is the part number for the air pump, I have a 2002 sub, or is anybody selling one cheap?
#97 of 102 Re: Auto ride question [agumchewer]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Jun 16, 2012 (8:25 am)
We aren't set up for buying and selling on the forums - if you want a used one, try your local auto salvage yard. Maybe craigslist to find someone parting a Suburban out, but that's a long shot. And there's always eBay.
For part numbers, try RockAuto.com.
#98 of 102 ABS and air ride?
Nov 19, 2012 (7:25 pm)
does anyone know if replacing auto ride shocks with standard shocks and disconnecting the pump will affect the air bag sensors?
#100 of 102 c0660 Service Ride Control - exhaust solenoid is good
Feb 07, 2013 (11:27 am)
I replaced my compressor and rear shocks in August and that fixed my SRC message on the dash. All was peachy for 5 months. SRC message reappears, call Arnott and they shipped me a new unit. I spoke to Arnott today and the "bad" unit I sent back, both the compressor and solenoid passed their tests, so it appears my problem is a wiring fault.
Here's what I've tested:
If I jumper pins 30 and 87 on the ALC Relay socket, compressor runs and the shocks hold air
Resistance of exhaust solenoid is 18.6 ohms
I bought a replacement ALC Relay from Autozone and it made no difference. Original relay tests good - can feel and hear click.
Opened up the dryer and the desicant looks pratically new from rebuild 5 months ago.
Bench tested exhaust solenoid by jumpering pins F and B (I believe those were the pins) in the 7 Pin plug that attaches the compressor to the truck and I can hear it click.
Bench tested compressor function by jumpering pins A and G in the 7 pin plug and it kicks on
Yesterday, paid to have it scanned with Snap On Tech II and tested all the level sensors ... jacking up vehicle you can see the voltage change in a graph real time.
Code is C0660 which is typically the bad exhaust valve, but apparenlty, I'm in the .01%
Not sure how to perform these following tests:
"Test the control circuit of the exhaust solenoid valve for a short to voltage and an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems."
"Test the control circuit of the exhaust solenoid valve for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems."
Connector Part Information • 12110751
• 7-Way F Metri-Pack 280 Series (BLK)
Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
A RED 742 Battery Positive Voltage
B DK BLU 2249 Real Time Damping Compressor Exhaust Control
C BLK 407 Low Reference
D TAN 2252 Leveling Pressure Sensor Signal
E GRY 416 5 Volt Reference
F ORN 2440 Battery Positive Voltage
G BLK 1450 Ground
My wire colors on my 7 pin pig tail don't match these exactly. I have black, red , dark blue, grey, and then three little wires that run to the connector on the dryer that are orange, yellow, and green ....
From the Arnott compressor, I did blue to dark blue and white to grey and obviously black to black and red to red. Arnott suggested I swap the blue to gray and white to dark blue as a test. Going to do that, but hoping someone can help with how to perform the 2 tests above with the pins involved?
I have a voltmeter and a test lamp.
#102 of 102 Re: head ache almost over. [1967chevy]
Sep 19, 2013 (4:11 pm)
Are you sure it was 22 Ohms? I just pulled out my factory shocks, and they measured 2.2 Ohms.