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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Noise and Vibration
172 messages, Last post on Oct 28, 2009 at 1:49 PM
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Replying to: don14813 (Sep 16, 2008 3:13 pm) Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B Date: January 05, 2005 TECHNICAL Subject: Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) Models Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle). Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop. Cause A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition. Diagnostic Tips There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include: ^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft ^ Knock or Clunk Noise ^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580) ^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001 ^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042 ^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028 Correction Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below. Follow the service procedure below. 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection. Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint. 3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange. 4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange. 5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal. 6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press. Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint. 7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers. 8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring. 9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket. 10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear. 11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke. 12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke. 13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint. 14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring. 15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections. 16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating. 17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information. 18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint. 19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom. 20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup. 21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear. 22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear. 23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups. 24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups. Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup. 25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup. 26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove. 27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place. 28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer. 29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove. 30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case. 31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft. 32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts. Tighten Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft). 33. Lower the vehicle Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information |
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I just got a 2003 Chevy 2500HD LT that is in near new condition (30,000 miles) on the way home I started to hear this crackling noise that seems to be from the upper driverside of the windshield.???? The truck has a bug guard and on-star ant. and I'm wondering if that is where the noise is comming from. Could the windshield be loose?
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Replying to: rabown (Sep 19, 2008 6:15 pm) That has been a common problem caused by the bug deflector. Buy some window sealant from Checkers and reseal the windshield. |
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Replying to: gmcman815 (Jul 07, 2008 4:03 pm)
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| I have a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (RWD Ext Cab/5.3 V8) and started to notice a popping noise in the vicinity of the center floorboard hump. The rate of the pop doesn't increase or decrease with the engine RPMs and it doesn't increase or decrease when the truck is in gear, parked, or being driven. I opened the hood to see if the noise could be heard from the engine compartment and I listened from underneath the truck, but did not hear anything. Anyone have the same or similar problem? | |
Looking for a solution. The 2002 Sierra 1500 extended cab drives as if all 4 tires are badly out of balance. The problem begins at approximately 40 mph and felt primarily on the drivers side. So far, every experiment seems to aggravate the problem. We have consulted with a tire company, 5 GM dealerships, GM, and no experiment has helped. Considerable attentiion has be given the wheels, tires, drive shaft, mounts, and barrings. GM recommends replacement body mounts and if that doesn't work, then replace the drive shaft. GM does not know how to correct the problem. Has anyone found a solution to this problem which seems to be characteristic of this GM truck?
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Replying to: sedaman (Oct 21, 2008 7:02 am) -2 or 4wd? -When did this start? -Some of the dealerships have a vibration tracking device. Costs about $2500 so not all of them have it. Has this been used at any of the 5 dealerships?
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Replying to: obyone (Oct 21, 2008 11:27 am) 2 wd. Problem started several months ago and has gotton progressively worse. Yes, has been checked on 2 different machines-nothing found.
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Replying to: sedaman (Oct 21, 2008 12:56 pm) Hunter GSP 9700 Most harmonic vibrations start at around 50-55 mph. The fact that yours start at 40 is unusual. The only thing that happens at that mph is the torque converter locks up at 39 mph and driving at that speed had generated some amount of complaints as the engine tends to lug which might be associated with a type of vibration. Not sure if this would be the case as you've had the truck for awhile and would've noticed this sooner if it was a problem. Was anything replaced on the truck prior to this happening?
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Replying to: obyone (Oct 21, 2008 2:00 pm) |
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