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Sedans Volkswagen Passat Volkswagen Passat Sludge Issues
272 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 10:26 AM
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Hey altair4, Thanks for your response. Like your comment about your receipts  ) Your advice is priceless and will prove very useful. For what it's worth, I received an answer from pelicanparts yesterday, they say both filters fit the same, the only difference is the brand. I went to the local Autozone last night, got Mobil 1 0W40, as well as the matching filter (Mobil 1 M1-301) they recommended. They have a deal I won't advertise here but it's worth it I think (I am NOT affiliated in any fashion). Now it's just a matter of crawling under the car.. Thanks again for your help, wish me luck.
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Replying to: bambouleee (Oct 14, 2009 8:38 am) altair4, I wanted to say thank you again. I changed the oil myself last week, so far so good. I used the oil and filter I mentioned before. As for what you called belly pan, yes, I removed that large plastic cover, also noticed there were not very many of those half-turn screws left (only 3). I was able to get to the filter (i'm skinny) without taking the hose off. You can wedge your arm in there but it's tight. I used an old leather belt to screw the oil filter on and off, worked pretty well. I checked regularly after the oil change, I have not noticed any leaks so far. I wiped the filter with a paper towel a few times, there is no leak either. I will change the oil it every 3000 miles; during the week my trips are very short (2mi), and VW does recommend more frequent oil changes in these adverse conditions. Voila  Wish me luck; good luck to other Passat owners as well.
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Replying to: bambouleee (Oct 21, 2009 6:57 pm) Regarding those belly screws...the front ones are important, especially that 10 mm nut on the front. If these fail while the car is at speed, the bellypan drops to the road surface and self-destructs. The back ones are important, too, if you live in an area that gets lots of snow. If they're missing, the pan can kind of act like a snow plow and break the belly pan. |
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I have 2007 VW Passat 2.0T with an alternator charging problem. It charges intermittently or not at all. It does not charge the battery fully. The alternator and battery has been replace, however it did not fix the problem. Wiring harness has been check and was found to have good continuity. The mechanic suspects that either the Vehicle System Control Module or the Engine Control Module is faulty. I understand electronic very well; however without schematics for the two modules, I am not able to determine how the two Control units function together. From high level wiring diagram we can see there are two wires that appear to be routed to the alternator field windings. Can you provide any suggestion of what could be the problem or an explanation of how the two unit work to maintain proper charging. B.T.W. the generator warning lamp has never turned on (even though the battery voltage drops below 10 volts). Thanks, Garyb2
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Replying to: garyb2 (Nov 11, 2009 7:41 pm) I am no expert on these things, but first let me say I think you need to get a second opinion from a reputable mechanic (VW preferably, but not at the same garage you are currently using). Second I have these thoughts on the problem... In order for an alternator to generate electricity the field needs to be energized. This is done (to start with) from the battery voltage. I would check the field terminals to see if there is voltage there when the car is running. If not you have to find out why... a loose connector on the battery? broken wire? bad ground? at the alternator? Since the alternator light is not on I expect that the alternator is working, but the connection to the battery is faulty. This can be confirmed by measuring the voltage out of the alternator... it should be around 14 volts when the car is running.. if it is working properly. If you are getting 14 volts at the alternator, check the voltage at the battery. If this is not 14 volts when the car is running, explore the connections between the alternator and the battery. I once had a Chevy Cavalier where a heavy wire had a small hole in the insulation and antifreeze leaked inside. This caused the copper wire inside to corrode and eventually disintegrate to the point where it would not conduct electricity any more. The wire looked intact but the conductor was not. I would not think the vehicle control unit would be participating in the actual charging of the battery. You do not mention replacing a regulator but then a lot of times those are actually part of the alternator. Check to see if it is a separate component, this would be less expensive to replace than the vehicle control unit. Part of the field circuit is a 'exciter diode' assembly it converts the alternating current to direct current to be fed back to the field (in case the battery does not have enough juice to properly energize the field). This is actually part of the regulator in some vehicles, in others it is part of the alternator. If your car has a separate regulator and that was not replaced it is possible this 'exciter diode' is faulty and not properly energizing the field. I hope this helps. Jim M 
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I have a 2002 Passat 1.8t that does just fine until I've been on the freeway for about an hour when the Stop Engine light comes on warning of low oil pressure. I figure it is sludge related, but I've heard more about pressure problems at idle than at 65 mph. Is this likely a coked up intake screen? Any thoughts on cleaning this kind of blockage without dropping the pan, a real p.i.t.a. and $750? thanks y'all, M
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Replying to: mark_oregon (Nov 22, 2009 11:10 am) The only time I have seen that "STOP" indication on my dash, it was accompanied with the OIL light. However, after having the codes read (they wanted to replace the cam adjuster mechanism $750 for the part!) and having the car stall and refuse to run for 10 to 15 minutes. I had a conversation with the VW technician. We came to the conclusion that the Cam Position sensor was faulty. This is on the outside of the 1.8 engine block and cost me about $250 to have replaced. That was two (or more) years ago and I have not seen the Oil indicator or the "STOP" message since. I actually ran some "Auto-RX" through my Passat and took the oil filter apart to see if there was any sludge dislodged. There was none. I have had synthetic oil at each oil change (every 5000 mi) since I owned the car more than 4 years ago. It is a difficult process to take the oil filter apart but if you are mechanically inclined it might be worth the effort to see if you do actually have a sludge issue. I hope this helps. Jim
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Replying to: majicman (Nov 23, 2009 6:24 am) Jim |
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