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Sedans Volkswagen Passat Volkswagen Passat Sludge Issues
272 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 10:26 AM
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I am the unlucky owner of a 2002 Passat, which I got almost new w/ 4,000 miles from a relative. I've kept up w/ most of the major tune ups (only at the dealership) but haven't had oil changes every 5k miles. Now I've been told at 37k miles I need a new engine ($8,500) because of oil sludge. This is incredible, if not maddening!!!! I've called VWoA and was told it is not under warranty because I cannot prove I had the oil changed EVERY 5k miles. Of course, the dealership will not help me at all! Has this happened to anyone and if yes, do you have any advice/recommendations as to how to best handle?? I've also been in contact w/ a mechanic who told me it's a engine malfunction because of the size of the engine is too small and the turbo causes it to run hot and create sludge. Half of me wants to seek legal action because there are owners who have changed their oil every 5k miles and STILL had sludge. VW has been open about the problem, extending the warranty to 8 years, but only if you can prove you've had oil changes every 5k, which I haven't. Also, up until a few years ago VW had been using non synthetic oil for service, possible unknowingly fueling the sludge problem themselves. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Replying to: pjp9999 (Mar 06, 2006 4:16 pm) I don't think you have any legal recourse, though I wish you good luck, as you will be needing it. ~alpha
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Replying to: pjp9999 (Mar 06, 2006 4:16 pm) You might see if you can find someone to put a rebuilt or used engine in for less $$$. |
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Replying to: pjp9999 (Mar 06, 2006 4:16 pm) |
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Replying to: goodegg (Mar 07, 2006 5:20 am) Maybe there is a defect since he said even some cars that had the oil changed on schedule had the same problem. However, he needed to not exceed the maximum oil change interval if he was interested in keeping the warranty in effect.
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Replying to: jaxs1 (Mar 07, 2006 6:09 am) Change your oil every 3K or 3 months, drain and refill coolant at least every 24K or 2 years, and change your ATF every 24K or 2 years. If you follow this schedule, or something similar for your vehicle, you generally won't have any mechanical engine or transmission failures. Fluids are the life-blood of your engine!
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Replying to: pjp9999 (Mar 06, 2006 4:16 pm) I sugesst that you don't buy a new engine and I sugesst that you call as many junkyards as you can, and find a low mileage engine from a wreck. You should be able to buy a used engine for less than $1K. You should be able to get the engine installed for less than $800 at any smaller shop. PLEASE NOTE tell the shop to install turbo from the swapped engine. Do not keep your old turbo, because chances are it is gone as well. When a junkyard sells you your engine turbo should be included. A new turbo can cost as much as a used engine. If you can afford I actually sugesst you buy a new turbo from garrett that will fit on your junkyard supplied engine, ask garrett what you should buy and than try to find this new on either e-bay or froogle or whatever. Try to buy turbos that are ball bearing and have both water and oil cooling, and when the shop installs it make sure that they know that you want both water and oil cooling for the turbo. Why? Because turbine is the one that distroyed your oil and cooked it to a sludge. Any turbo engine requires good oil. If you are cheap and don't want to spend extra money on the new turbo and don't really care for performance you can keep your old turbo (from the junkyard not your engine) and make sure you install an aftermarket turbotimer ($100-250) in your car. Turbo timers are used to keep the car running even as you exit the car and lock it so that turbo has enough time to cool down by having oil circulating through it, this also slows the process of oil from boiling and turning into sludge. Speaking of oil, I think you will remember from now on that it is STUPID to try to save on high-quality oil. With that in mind keep buying good oil. Who makes good oil? Almost everyone. Mobil1 is most common, but it is no better than many others, it really doesen't matter who makes it, what it matters is what SAE/ACEA and API requrenments it passes. Since your car is 2002, AND turboed, I suggest you use either oil that satisfies ACEA E5 or if you cannot find ACEA ratings than use API SL or even better API SM. Now the oil thikness. This is important. The number that stands next to the W tell you how well the oil is suited for WINTER therefore W. So my advice to you is to change oil during the winter and summer times regardless of whether you have or have not went 5k miles in between. For winter I would use 5W-40, so change to 5w-40 before winter like in November or so. And during summer you should really get oil that is like 5w-50, but since this does not exist, you should use any oil that has the second number 50. 15w-50 would be a great choice. So you know why I tell you these things, I'll try to put the stuff in terms almost everyone should understand. The first number tells you how easy it is for oil to move through the engine the first number tells you how well it is suited for winter driving. Oil should flow with a lot less resistance (low viscosity) when it is cold so a low frist number is good for winter, and the high second number after the w should be high for summer. The second number tells you the propensity of oil to thin out at higher temperatures, that is it tells you that the higher the number the higher the weight of it. This is good for hot summer days when idling. If you chage your oil with full synthetics and with the schedjule I told you your engine will last over 150,000 miles with most certanty, all the while it is saving you on gas. I am sorry for your misfortune, but there is really nothing you can do. |
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Replying to: ibudic1 (Mar 07, 2006 10:15 am) Volkswagen Approved Engine Oil (gasoline engines), and Choosing the Right Oil—gasoline engines at: http://www.vw.com/owners/serv_care.html (I would guess that using 15W-50 in summer would not cause a problem...just thought it was worth pointing out exacty what VW requirements and recommendations are)
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Replying to: ibudic1 (Mar 07, 2006 10:15 am) 
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