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Tahoe Suburban Brake Questions
75 messages, Last post on Apr 13, 2008 at 3:48 PM
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We have had nothing but brake problems with our '03 Suburban since day one. We repeatedly took it in for a "rubbing" brake noise. No cause was ever found. It has been in with e-brake problems. Had to be replaced because was hanging up. Then last winter the e-brake would freeze and we would be stuck! We were told that this can happen and not to set our brake! Well that is NOT acceptable. We finally took it back to the dealership where we got it and had them replace rotor and all. Last Friday we had park brake cable replaced because it had broke. Now last night the brake froze again!!!! I keep being told to not set it, but this must be a design flaw because we have NEVER had this happen on any other GM vehicle or truck we have owned! Any others out there with the same problem??
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Replying to: suburban6 (Jan 22, 2008 1:53 pm) |
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Replying to: bryan459 (Feb 21, 2007 2:13 pm) |
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| Hi, I just bought an 01 suburban that needed brakes in the rear the sheet metal sheild/backing plate is rusted and falling off. It looks like the axles have to be removed to replace or do they make a split or two piece plate to replace it? Has anyone had this plate rust out and any one ever replaced them themselves? Thanks | |
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Hello, noobie here. Right front rotor on my 96 Suburban separated in two (hub and disc) due to heavy corrosion. I live in the northeast. I know that there was a recall for 88-92 Suburbans used in the "salt belt" area but does anyone know if there were any GM publications covering the 96, TSB, dealership advisory, GM corporate bulletin, etc? Also, can anyone tell me how to determine whether or not the rotor is a factory original? I bought the car with 19K on it and I know that they were resurfaced by my dealer but never replaced. Many thanks AJG
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Replying to: ajg617 (Apr 04, 2008 5:17 am) I am not aware of any TSB. The front brakes are critical to keep in excellent shape, because of the vehicle weight, the rear drum brakes, and the smaller size of the discs. Do NOT go cheap on the the rotor replacement. You can get relatively cheap rotors at the chain autoparts stores, but it pays to upgrade to Bendix (they may have to special order it in). I read a comparison years ago, and the metallic makeup and manufacturing heating and cooling process reduces warping of the rotors that can occur under a heavy braking situation. I dont' remember the prices, but I think like a regular rotor is like 30 or 40 bucks, and a Bendix like 50 or 60 each Having replaced a number of the cheaper ones after warping, I can tell you the labor/hassle savings is well worth the $$'s. I personally would not consider your original equipment rotors defective having lasted 12-13 years, I'm surprised they haven't been replaced once or twice already.
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 05, 2008 4:58 am) |
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Hello, I have a 1997 4x4 Tahoe. - 5.7 The other day when I drove it, it came to a complete slow stop on it's own. When I tried to force it to move, I went about 30 feet and the brakes started to smoke along with that wonderful 'burnt brake' smell. All 4 wheels seem to be locked up. If I let it sit overnight, they release, but when I try to drive it they lock up again. It happens slowly, it's not a sudden neck jerking stop. I took out the ABS fuse ... didn't help. ANYONE have any ideas as to what this might be? Thank you. |
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