166 messages,
Last post on Aug 23, 2011 at 8:31 AM
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Maintenance & Repair Forum.
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Engine, Exhaust, Diesel, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon
This topic is for diesel car and truck owners who have not been able to find satisfactory information in the forums dealing with their particular vehicles (please use SEARCH on left of page before you post here).
#153 of 166 Re: 03 Dmax problem [arizona3]
by jdgreen
Jan 02, 2010 (3:14 pm)
go to this website. www.dmaxwrenchkit.com
#154 of 166 Re: 03 Dmax problem [cayadopi]
by jdgreen
Jan 02, 2010 (3:20 pm)
same happened to me. I went to dmaxwrenchkit.com and had my fuel filter housing rebuilt and my truck has never run better! that was two years ago.
May 06, 2010 (8:21 pm)
Are there any european diesel suvs that can be brought back to the states that are not already imported. I am interested in buying one there, using it and then shipping it back. thanks
#156 of 166 Re: european diesels [waltingram]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 07, 2010 (7:39 am)
No, if it's not certified for the USA it's not coming here without enormous difficulties and no guarantee of success.
#157 of 166 kia 2002 sedona crdi 2.9 no start no voltage to injectors
by romemaya
Jun 11, 2010 (2:09 pm)
can someone help me i have a kia sedona common rail diesel 2.9 2002 model the engine turns over and has plenty of fuel going to the fuel injectors but the injectors dont have any power (volts) going to them .i have tested the power leads and when the engine is turned over there is no voltage going to them . i have checked all the fuses and they are all ok . and all connections are ok so iam confused as i have enough mechanical knolage to fix it but its got me buged?
#158 of 166 Re: kia 2002 sedona crdi 2.9 no start no voltage to injectors [romemaya]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 11, 2010 (4:46 pm)
Oh you must be in Canada or overseas? We don't get this vehicle in the US, so I don't have a database on it.
Generally, on modern diesel the injectors are controlled electronically by a direct injection module. I think the only way to diagnose this is with a scan tool.
So can you momentarily start the engine with a squirt of starting fluid? --use very sparingly on a diesel---I'm only asking so that you can double-check your original diagnosis--it should kick right off with starter fluid.
If it doesn't start, you might check your glow plug circuit.
#159 of 166 Motor rums good but smokes bad
by iceman9272005
Oct 15, 2010 (12:02 am)
I need some advice.I have a 1989 timberjack logging skidder with a 4 cyl.cummins motor.The motor runs good and will pull a heavy load, wide open but when you let off the gas it smokes bad !! The smoke is whiteish with a strong smell of oil,but does not use any oil,and when it idles after it is hot the motor will start to miss a little.Could it be the turbo,or the head or maybe the rings.And how can I test it to see which.I would be grateful for any help.
#160 of 166 Re: Motor rums good but smokes bad [iceman9272005]
by rblack98
Oct 21, 2010 (7:15 pm)
Need a bit more info. How many hrs. on unit? Put your thumb on breather tube, should not feel over 8 - 15 psi air hose. Valves adjusted lately? Check exhaust port manifold temp with infrared temp gun...20*F +/- max with each other. Use temp gun at coolant outlet neck...195*F-230*F operating temperature. White smoke probably is from non-combusted fuel-if engine temp is ranging 130*F - 150*F operating temp this condition can occur. If low temp,check t-stat(opening to soon).
#161 of 166 80 Silverado Diesel Coolant Loss
by tilford
Aug 13, 2011 (7:30 am)
Truck is building pressure in radiator and pushing coolant into overflow jug, then out of jug on ground. I replaced thermostat and radiator cap, still have same problem. The factory temp guage has never showed hot. Any suggestions ???????????????
#162 of 166 Re: 80 Silverado Diesel Coolant Loss [tilford]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Aug 13, 2011 (8:14 am)
Gauge could be wrong. You might want to get a radiator thermometer to double-check. One thing that drives people nuts with diagnosing overheating issues is making assumptions, such as relying on the gauge, or thinking that because a part came new out of the box, then it must be good.
If in fact you aren't overheating, then you might have a clogged radiator. Have you ever put a stop-leak product in it? That'll do it.