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642 messages,  Last post on Nov 09, 2009 at 9:47 PM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan Pickup, Nissan Frontier, Nissan King Cab, Nissan Titan, Truck

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#633 of 642 Re: Weird noise [restin84] by juumpmaster Jul 02, 2009 (4:44 pm)
Replying to: restin84 (Jun 15, 2009 4:11 pm) Steering wheel locked, no mine was not in the locked position when I had the problem, but I was turning the wheel sharply, kinda thought this is what you meant.
#634 of 642 1983 nissan lights by 83nissan Jul 31, 2009 (3:01 pm)
hi i have an 1983 nissan pickuptruck and i am new to nissans and my headlights don't work. i have tested all of them and they all work but they whon't work on the truck. all the other lights work(rear lights, signal lights, side markers, dash lights, interior light(which doesn't turn off). and i have a problem with the engine. it will run but when i quickly add the gas it bogs and dies, and it doesn't idle. the gas line is all rusted so i replaced it but it has a diffrent pump, the pump is from a suzuki samuri.
#635 of 642 95 Nissan 4x4 V6 by snowflake3 Oct 27, 2009 (1:47 pm)
Earlier this summer I was hit in the passenger side rear end of my truck. The insurance company decided to total it. I am wondering if anyone knows what other years of the hardbody have interchangeable under carriage parts, specifically the leaf springs, shocks, axle and housing. Thanks for your time.
#636 of 642 ignition chime by fpina25 Oct 29, 2009 (9:19 am)
I have a 95 nissan pickup extended cab, when I remove the key from the ignition the chime stays on, I have to tap the ignition once or twice to get the chime to turn off. What could this be? I have checked the wiring and fuses, they are all good to go. stumped! Replies to this message: obyone (Oct 29, 2009 8:41 pm)
#637 of 642 Re: ignition chime [fpina25] by obyone Oct 29, 2009 (8:41 pm)
Replying to: fpina25 (Oct 29, 2009 9:19 am) bad ignition switch
#638 of 642 cooling prob by chefdan Nov 01, 2009 (10:08 am)
I have a 91 nissan pickup 2x2 ,this past summer it started overheating. I checked the radiator and discovered a small hole. A friend of mine gave me some radiator stop leak and since we were at his house we just put water in it. now last month I realized that I forgot to put the antifreeze in and the water froze up. I removed the radiator and thawed it out and replaced. I went to flush out all the crud left in the motor and discovered that I have a manufactured hole without a plug. I found the plug and the hole is on the left side of the block under the aircleaner and carb. Does anyone have any bright ideas on replacing it with out removing the carb and stuff? Replies to this message: asa (Nov 03, 2009 5:07 pm)
#639 of 642 Re: cooling prob [chefdan] by asa Nov 03, 2009 (5:07 pm)
Replying to: chefdan (Nov 01, 2009 10:08 am) Is it a 'freeze plug' on the side of the engine block that you have found? These are engineered to pop so that ice in the cooling system doesn't crack the block. You can purchase a replacement, but you'll need to carefully and squarely drive it in with a hammer and driver and you'll need some room to do that.
#640 of 642 oil pump by spence35 Nov 09, 2009 (8:25 pm)
I just changed my timing chain in my 97 2.4liter se xcab 4x4. got it back together,now the oil light is on vales make noise,oil filter is bone dry. I bought a new pump,filled it with oil to prime it. installed it. still not pumping oil. I started pulling the pan to check the screen. am i on the right track. Yes i did get the chain changed with out pulling the oilpan,just had to loosen it. I was hoping for sugesstions. Replies to this message: cttoaz (Nov 09, 2009 8:59 pm) spence35 (Nov 09, 2009 9:47 pm)
#641 of 642 Re: oil pump [spence35] by cttoaz Nov 09, 2009 (8:59 pm)
Replying to: spence35 (Nov 09, 2009 8:25 pm) Not meaning to be sarcastic here at all, but are you sure you added sufficient oil to fill the sump fully after doing the job initially?   I replaced the timing chain on my 96 with the same engine at beginning of the summer, and as long as the oil pump is correctly installed (all the feed holes line up to the block), the oil pump is flush to the block when installed (so that you know the oil pump/distributor drive shaft is properly meshing with the crankshaft gear and the shaft end keys are appropriately inserted into the oil pump & distributor ends ), and your distributor is spinning/timed correctly, there isn't much else here to look at. Installing the new oil pump eliminates the pump as a variable since both units act the same.   I agree that not removing the oil pan should not be a problem - I did mine just to make sure everything was leak free when I was finished but there was no mechanical reason to need to do so. It definitely agree that it sounds like the proper next step is to remove the pan to make sure that excess silicone sealant didn't fall in the sump and is now clogging the screen. I found some crumbs in my pan when it was removed, but if I remember correctly, not near enough to cause it to stop the oil flowing.   I think there might be a slight possibility of installing the oil pump backwards at 180 degrees or something, so look closely at its alignment (though I am not entirely sure you would be able to get all the bolts in correctly, and think it would likely spring a leak since the oil pressure would surely cause the gasket to fail).   Good luck! Replies to this message: spence35 (Nov 09, 2009 9:47 pm)
#642 of 642 Re: oil pump [cttoaz] by spence35 Nov 09, 2009 (9:47 pm)
Replying to: cttoaz (Nov 09, 2009 8:59 pm) heh,yea the dip stick says it has oil in it all the way,and the four empty courts of oil bottles tell me i should at least be getting some oil in my filter. I m pretty sure i cant get the pump in backwards because the long bolts go on top an 2 shorter ones on bottom every thing fits, the truck runs. i did as scary as it sounds let it run a few min hoping it would build pressure. no dice. I even took the valve cover of and started it for a minute. poured some oil on the cam and chain. expecting to get oil all over,didnt happen.

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