Last post on Nov 25, 2013 at 2:27 PM
You are in the Lincoln MKS
What is this discussion about?
Lincoln MKS, Sedan
#2956 of 2980 MKS Stabilization
Jan 28, 2013 (7:26 am)
2013 MKS. Stabilization package comes with the deal. The Lincoln continuously controlled damping (CCD) continuously adapts to road conditions. It gives you a choice of 3 ride set-ups: Comfort (and it is), Normal (drives like a Taurus to me--and that's good), Sport (solid--like a train on rails). I select "Comfort" for my "D" position on the shifter, and "Sport" for the "S" position. I drive over the mountains on some of my trips and when I drop to the "S" it becomes a whole different car. The steering response is quicker and the transmission stays in lower gears for control (you do have paddle shifters if needed) and the suspension really tightens up.
#2957 of 2980 Re: Bluetooth phone [hey_tinkerbell]
Jan 28, 2013 (9:39 am)
I agree it should not have to be done - but if you want to fix it sans an appointment with the dealer and all that inconvenience - reboot the car.
It ain't just Ford, BTW, my BIL is moronic enough to own a new Malibu that frequently goes into limp mode on trips. His suggestion from Government Motors is to "reboot the car" the same way. Sure enough, it works. Beats calling a tow truck once a month.
#2958 of 2980 Re: MKS Stabilization [jowillie]
Jan 28, 2013 (10:31 am)
Was Stabilization offered on the 2010, 11, & 12 models or is 2013 its first year?
#2959 of 2980 Re: Bluetooth phone [nvbanker]
by Kirstie@Edmunds HOST
Jan 28, 2013 (1:17 pm)
Is that the "reduced engine power" message? We have a whole discussion dedicated to that problem on GM vehicles. If so, it'd be interesting to hear how to go about re-booting. Edit: I see now that it's disconnect/reconnect battery.
#2960 of 2980 Re: Bluetooth phone [kirstie_h]
Jan 29, 2013 (6:19 am)
Kirstie, sometimes it might call for that drastic disconnect. The 09 Malibu and electronic toy laden 11 Lacrosse required, "pull over, shut down, restart." Regardless, that is unacceptable. So far, 28K miles, no such issue with my MKS. At least not for major items such as traction control, electric power steering, and the entire navigation system. I did do it one time for bluetooth phone and it worked, but that may have been an anomaly. I noticed the couple of times I had a bluetooth phone connect issue that the phone was only half charged which may have led to a weak signal. And some having phone connect issues should obviously try another phone. Besides bluetooth 2.0, 2.1, 3, & 4, etc. there are classes within each of them. Three I think, and that indicates the distance it will cover. I have a 2.0 device within the class that is good to over 100 feet. So far I have not been able to find any devices of that class for Bluetooth 3 or 4.
Is there a spec that tells what Bluetooth class and version is used in these vehicles?
Jan 29, 2013 (6:28 am)
I don't know what they did at dealer for my complaint of hard pedal, poor braking, if pedal was reapplied within a couple of seconds, but they noted the rear pads were worn very uneven. One side at 3mm and the other at 6+mm. They said they lubed the caliper slides, but pretty sure it was more than that. And likely involves TSB that was for brake drag on rear for 09 & some 10.
After the service, I now have to be a bit more cautious and readjust my driving when stopped in traffic. Letting up on the brake, the vehicle starts rolling. I don't want to bump anyone, but also appears to demonstrate brake drag was present. And so far it appears I've gained about 0.8 MPG on local driving. Good braking, good news. Better gas mileage, good news.
Mar 01, 2013 (4:55 am)
Rockauto now has a available a carbon impregnated replacement by ATP. Avoid the NAPA 4068 EnviroSheild, it is treated with Biosheid 75 and emits a lungs and eyes irritant as well as an odor. Look at Biosheild website. The chemical works because it has many tiny spikes on molecule that puncture cell of microbial and very likely human cells as well. I certainly can not think of a reason it would not. It may also cause itching.
Apr 29, 2013 (4:22 am)
Last time in they replaced pads and a caliper and turned rotors on rear at 28,000 miles. I'm a bit unhappy that they turned instead of replaced which means when the rears are up for service it will mean new rotors out of my pocket instead of just turning. The reason was odd wear on rotors, not to the outside edge, an apparently drag since one side was worn more than 3 mm more than opposite side.
I also have been noting for a long time a bit of instability in suspension effecting tracking unless on glass smooth road. Gave me the impression of someone not professional at using a Pogo stick.
Now 29,948 miles, when braking I feel the vehicle point left a small amount and return when brake is released. Brake drag? Possibly but it gets more complicated. The Pogo stick control has advanced to the point that it is worrisome for keeping it between the lines traveling with traffic. It gives me the impression of loose joints on arms, bad ball joints, or loose wheel bearings. Really hard to say if one cornered causing all of it or it is all four corners.
If that is not enough instability, add in that I'm now feeling slight play on input side of rack. (I think this vehicle uses rack and pinion) On older vehicles that had power steering strong enough to hold against road bump input, this likely would not be an issue. With this setup and not perfectly smooth road I have to constantly adjust to keep it between the lines and even get slower than prevailing traffic.
Has anyone run into these issues, individually or in combination? I'm not sure what is going on, only that it is becoming very disconcerting.
Recap: Car takes a slightly left heading when brake applied and returns when brake released. Brakes or bearings or suspension?
Car feels unstable as a small bump catches one tire and seems to pass that energy to the other corners in an unvertical fashion. Bushings, joints, or what?
Steering input has slight play allowing or adding to wandering on the road. Rack and pinion (too much play between rack and pinion gears), play in U-joints on steering shaft, or play in steering column shaft?
Someone please tell me they did not use that same crappy shaft tensioner they used on all the Taurus except first generation. Those vehicles had more holding by the power steering than this one so if they used the same junk it is little wonder it is failing by 30,000 miles. Those Taurus would fail for me around 60,000 miles. That is three of them. The first generation used spring steel clips and was still good at 150,000 miles. The rack and tie-rod ends had failed on it. All of the earlier generations of Taurus used the same design stabilizer bar links on front. And they all would fail early because of the poor quality of rubber boots. The boots would desintegrate allowing dirt and moisture in wearing the joints out.
Any input will be helpful.
#2964 of 2980 Re: Brakes and Control [e_net_rider]
Apr 29, 2013 (1:37 pm)
That pull to the left when you apply the brake. Does the temp make a difference? My 2012 Mustang does this, especially when I first drive the car and it's cold out, but it doesn't feel like the usual brake pull, I think it might be the electric power steering. My car only has 6000 miles. I talked to a co-worker who has a 2013 Escape, he has a similar issue.
It's not enough of a bother that I have gone back to the dealer, it seems much better now that the weather's warmer.
#2965 of 2980 Re: Brakes and Control [toomanyfumes]
May 01, 2013 (6:43 am)
Temp not connected to my issue.
Although temp changes can affect some issues, example, ice forming adding unbalanced weight, a grease or lubricant that has been applied unequally from wheel to wheel and is stiffer when colder. Coefficient of expansion might cause some rare situations especially where there is a difference of material at a connection point or nexis. Example, ABCM, the electro-mechanical portion. If engineering did not properly design for temperature extremes including allowable tolerances of machining or fit, the housing being of one material, bored for pistons that actually controll the fluid/pressure to individual calipers, one of the pistons might be at the maximum allowable design tolerance and it binds when the temperature reaches a certain point. That would give uneven brake apply.
One thing for sure, with the addition of ABCM, that is anti-lock, traction control portion, stability, the brake system has become a lot more complex. Just because you feel a pull to the left when braking, you can no longer assume it is the caliper on the right not applying, but possibly a malfunction in the ABCM or its control module or a sensor.
Is it the same on all road surfaces? Make sure tire pressure is even, at least within 1/2 PSI of each other. Has a RFB, road force balance been done. They are really good at eliminating tire issues. But just rotating tires, because of existant wear patterns, can alter how the vehicle feels, even if there is not eye-ball detectable difference. If the problem moves after rotation, then it is likely tire/wheel related.
What temps? Why do you think EPS?
As with mine, if you are rolling straight and stays straight when releasing steering wheel, however applying brake veers toward oncoming traffic, it is braking related. But bad/loose part in suspension, a bad wheel bearing, could be shifting under the force of braking resulting in the veering to a side. Still, you say temp related so I'd chase that to the end.