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SUVs Ford Bronco Ford Bronco Problems
231 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 2:24 AM
You are in the Ford Bronco Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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vehicle starts and runs but will start to stall out from a stop. will often stall out when slowing down. did all summer. this winter i noted that the the battery gauge would start to go down first and then it would quit.the needle sits on the M but when it starts the stall outs it sits on the R. it did oscillate a couple of time at night and the gauge went up and down as the lights brightened and dimmed. one mechanic stated he thought it was the trottle sensor. but there has been a few times where after it has done the stop and i restart that it just cranked and cranked and cranked, with no restart, but as soon as i turn it completely off and hit the key it starts back up. ignition module? or stick of dynamite
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Replying to: bavington (Dec 03, 2007 5:41 pm) 17 Reference Voltage/Intermittent Valve Fault Possible Source(s): · 30 amp fuse open. · Intermittent connections to battery, main relay or ground.  driver's side radiator support and; · Main relay coil or contacts open. MIESK5 note; check relay contacts FOR corrosion pull relay again & ck ; also see Fig. 12 and on (in below LINK) for pin point tests of CODE 17 -· Open or short to ground in Circuit 532 (O/Y). · Open or short to ground in Circuit 599 (PK/LG). · Open or short to ground in Circuit 601 (LG/PK).MIESK5 note; FROM FUSE PANEL 30 amp fuse · Short to ground through anti-lock hydraulic control unit. · Intermittent valve failures. · High resistance valves. So, ck that Relay's contacts (not the relay's contacts, but the connector's contacts.) Here is Chilton's wiring diagram via autozone; you will see all above ckts and color codes in Fig. 8: 4-wheel ABS testing-1993-96 Bronco models http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/a4/89/0900823d800aa489/repa- - irInfoPages.htm Also, R values for all in Fig. 10: Read thru all of that Chilton stuff; can save you $ btw, the rear ABS sensor on the diff would give Code 57. GL!
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Replying to: madmastiff (Dec 07, 2007 11:25 pm) Take it to get a free batty, alternator, etc check at AutoZone, Also Adv Auto may do it free too; possible battery, grounds, connectors, etc. Did you do the Self TEst for Codes? if not, get it done free at the AZ and post results here. GL
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Replying to: scooter692002 (Dec 03, 2007 2:59 pm) Most likely; Could be just a head gasket which has blown between those two cylinders, sticky valve(s) etc. or worse; Another possibility is that the camshaft is broken in an area that operates valves for two adjacent cylinders. not likely.. read more here Compression Testing, Stem Source: by tradervar.com http://www.tradervar.com/Stem%20Compression%20Tester.pdf A leakdown will determine whats going on in those cylinders,look inside the radiator for any "brown foam" to see if the head gasket is blown.Aside from that the leakdown will tell you all thats going on GL! |
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Replying to: miesk5 (Dec 09, 2007 5:06 am)
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Replying to: miesk5 (Dec 09, 2007 5:10 am) electrics all check on nov. 1 as i got a new battery that day. have not tried the check the codes heading to AZ tomorrow morning.
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Replying to: bavington (Dec 09, 2007 1:54 pm)
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Replying to: madmastiff (Dec 09, 2007 11:48 pm) gl! |
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Replying to: miesk5 (Dec 11, 2007 8:08 am)
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Replying to: bavington (Dec 11, 2007 3:44 pm) Doubt that it is the brake pedal, Look that AutoZone Link I posted and go thru the pin point tests for that Code. In reply mode here, I can't view what I posted. GL! |
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