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231 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 2:24 AM
You are in the Ford Bronco Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: labronco (Jan 19, 2008 3:06 am) http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/441108_1 see parts #23 Gearshift Selector Tube Spring 7379 (Automatic Only) 24 Gearshift Lever Pin 7G357 (Automatic Only) 25 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 7212 (Automatic Only) 26 Screws N806584 (Automatic Only) 27 Gearshift Tube Bushing Clamp 7E400 (Automatic Only) 28 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 7335 (Automatic Only) 29 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 7A216 (Automatic Only) 30 Screw N806584 (Automatic Only) 31 Shift Lock Actuator 3Z719 (Automatic Only) 32 Shift Cable and Bracket 7E395 (Automatic Only) etc, try a junk yard for parts. Shift Cable Adjustment for 92-96 Source: by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/434182 |
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Replying to: fighterguy211 (Jan 18, 2008 8:20 am) for now; Those hubs, auto or manual do not like a lot of grease Ck for broken parts on da wheel that does not spin; Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ auto & manual locking hubs & BoM Source: by Dana 2.dana.com BIG PDF FILE!http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2CVSP.PDF and "How to test Ford Auto locking hubs on all TTB aplications. 1. Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction." by Gacknar! GL!
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Replying to: miesk5 (Jan 23, 2008 10:08 am)
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Replying to: fighterguy211 (Jan 23, 2008 12:40 pm) You prob. have this type of Hub; Flange-style Manual Hub Parts Break-Out Diagram, used only on 87 & early 88 F150s & Broncos by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/470240 This was a change by Ford that didn't last long; so you may have prob.s finding new parts. Some info for you: 11.3 How come the hubs on my 87-88 Bronco are different than other Broncos? This was another of Ford's better ideas. For '87 and '88 Ford used a one-piece locking hub assembly. This hub simply sits between the wheel and brake rotor and is held in place by the wheel studs. This type of hub is very easy to remove (simply remove the wheel), but it is different from all other Broncos and therefore parts and replacement hubs are expensive and hard to find. To convert your 87-88 Bronco to the "standard" hubs you'll need to swap all the parts from the spindle out from a Bronco or F-150. It may even be possible to take these parts from any vehicle with a Dana 44 front axle and the same wheel bolt pattern as the Bronco (5 on 5.5"). If you are considering this swap it would be a good time to consider the 8 lug axle swap you've always wanted (see section 10.2). 10.2 Can I put 8 lug rotors on the front of my Bronco? 8 lug rotors (and larger axles and hubs) can be installed in 78-79 Broncos. The axle housing on 78-79 Bronco and F-150 Dana 44's are similar to the Dana 44's used on F-250's. To install the 8 lug rotors from an F-250, you need to swap everything from the knuckle out as well as the axle shafts themselves. This is a super strength upgrade from the stock axles, and also gives you bigger brakes. The jury is still out on 8 lug upgrades for TTB axles from 80-96 Broncos. Some people have done the swap, but it required making spacers for the ball joints because the 5 lug TTB Dana 44 knuckles are smaller than the "regular" Dana 44. It's a good idea to do the rear axle at the same time and upgrade the master cylinder to match your new brakes. GL! our New Bronco Tech Links Site; http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1 |
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I have an 1980 Ford Bronco. The battery will not stay charged. I have put a new altanator on it and a new voltage regulator on it. After doing this I found a short in the wiring and fixed the problem. But the battery still wont stay charged. I have done the test of pulling the battery off to see if it will still stay running without the battery but it won't. It runs great until the battery runs out of juice. I need help! If anyone has any ideas for me to try please let me know.
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Replying to: broncowoman (Jan 24, 2008 8:17 am) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Replying to: tidester (Jan 24, 2008 11:37 am)
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Replying to: broncowoman (Jan 25, 2008 5:38 am) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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Replying to: tidester (Jan 25, 2008 11:45 am)
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i have 1995 bronco and the steering gear box on the frame is wore out at 166000 miles have any of you hade this prob?
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