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Sedans Honda Accord 2008 Honda Accord Coupe and Sedan
5366 messages, Last post on Sep 18, 2008 at 6:52 AM
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Replying to: dpmeersman (Jun 12, 2008 3:58 am) Honda has had this type of transmission since the mid-90s. My 1996 Accord does the same thing; it keeps you from coasting too fast; it also holds third when climbing hills as opposed to hunting between third and fourth. If my 1996 Accord and my 2006 Accord are any window into the GLC transmission, there's not much you can do to get it to shift up except reach level ground. If you get your car into 4th gear before the hill starts, it shouldn't downshift back to third unless you hit the brakes. Otherwise, I've got nothing to offer ya, buddy. I'm sorry; hope my post at least lets you know its normal. 
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Replying to: thegraduate (Jun 12, 2008 11:12 am) |
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I have actually had a different experience with grade logic. It constantly engages on a ramp I have to go down on the way to work. It is a gradual and long ramp. I HAVE been able to get the grade logic to shift back up by letting off the brake and tapping the gas. I'm not sure why that hasn't worked for some others. Again, my situation involves a fairly gradual incline - so maybe a steeper incline does more to lock in the grade logic. Also, there was some mention above about preferring to replace brake pads, rather than putting more wear on the transmission. This is undoubtedly true. However, I can relay my experience with my old 98 I4 Accord with manual transmission. I had over 140,000 miles on that car when I sold it - and it had the ORIGINAL brake pads. The reason: I used the hell out of the transmission to brake my speed. I never abused it, but I absolutely used it more than the brakes to help control my speed. With all that work and all those miles, the transmission was bomb-proof and never had a single problem. Have I mentioned how much I liked that 98 Accord  I miss it and my new 08 is a lot fancier - but not nearly as flawless!
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Replying to: bug4 (Jun 12, 2008 1:17 pm) That may have a lot to do with it; mine works similarly to what you describe. I should've been more thorough in my description. However, I can rely my experience with my old 98 I4 Accord with manual transmission. I had over 140,000 miles on that car when I sold it - and it had the ORIGINAL brake pads. The reason: I used the hell out of the transmission to brake my speed. My 1996 got 131k out of the front pads, and still has the original shoes on the rear. That was a lot of highway driving obviously, but great nonetheless. I now have over 50,000 miles on the new pads (182k on the car) and have that many miles on the shoes. I used the hell out of the transmission to brake my speed. I never abused it, but I absolutely used it more than the brakes to help control my speed. Could you elaborate? I often use D3 in my 1996 (my 06 Accord is more willing to downshift when braking) to help slow me down, but rarely above 45 mph, and almost never into "2", unless the hill is awfully steep and I don't want my brakes to completely fade if I'm stopping from 70+ mph (such as a steep off-ramp leading to a red light). 98% of stops I just leave it in D4 and let the car do its thing, and always in the '06. After writing all of this I realize it is a little off topic. I'm not sure where it needs to go, though!
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Replying to: thegraduate (Jun 12, 2008 1:23 pm)
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Replying to: ljgbjg (Jun 12, 2008 1:30 pm)  grad - to answer your question --- my 98 was a manual and so I drove it like an 18-wheeler  If going above 70, I usually would let off the throttle until I got to 70, then shift into 4th. At about 55, I could shift down to 3rd and at something like 30-35 I would shift into 2nd to slow to about 20mph. Below 20mph or so, I would have to use my brakes since first gear was geared quite low. I still use my gears, at times, to slow my new Accord. But, as ljgbjg noted, it just seems to be a much more mechanically complicated process. |
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The main difference is the Alloy wheels. The Plastic wheels of the LX look terrible. The costs are $1000 different. Is it better (more cost effective) if I get the LX and put in the alloy myself? Thanks |
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Replying to: macno0b (Jun 20, 2008 12:51 pm) In terms of saving money however, I think your best bet is to buy the LX, and get after market alloys- a decent set can be had for prolly 300-600 depending on style/etc...
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Replying to: accordguy0325 (Jun 21, 2008 12:41 pm) Differences, 1) Steel wheels vs. alloy wheels. The plastic wheel covers on the LX are horrible. Thin and can be easily dented/bent. I can't believe that Honda chose those horrible wheel covers for an Accord. 2) Non powered vs. powered driver's seat. One caveat, the powered driver's seat on the LX-P does not come with lumbar support. The lumbar support is only found the EX and up trim levels. 3) Engine immobilizer vs. engine immobilizer plus alarm. As far as I can tell, those are the only differences between the LX and the LX-P. Are these differences worth $1,000? Myself, I really hated those flimsy plastic wheel covers, so went with the LX-P.
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Replying to: furrycute (Jun 22, 2008 6:00 am) If you were to add alloys and an alarm system on an after market basis, you're likely going to spend $1,000. Plus you get the power driver's seat with the LX-P. An alarm system and power seat are desirable features for most buyers. As long as you don't dislike the look of the OEM alloys, the LX-P is a smart purchase, in my opinion. |
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