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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair
327 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 9:33 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: ddvman (Aug 29, 2009 1:27 pm) You're being asked 1/2 of what I had to pay to have the work done at 60,000 miles, so welcome to Jeep's rich owners club  This morning I met a retired couple from Great Britain who got rid of their Liberty because of prohibitive cost of maintenance beyond 100,000 miles. They were looking at my CRD because their brand new Honda CRV had a problem and no parts were available yet on the continent. Sad but true, they have to drive 700 miles to get back home in a rental Fiat. The lady said she preffered the Jeep to the Honda. |
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My white driving lights in the front grill of my 2005 2.8 crd don't work and I don't remember them ever working. I replaced the relay and pulled one of the bulbs and it ohm'ed out fine. Anybody else experience those lights not working? |
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Cripes...I just learned something. They are not driving lights, they are fog lights. I thought they were marker lights that came on with the ignition. I read some posts and found out they are a switched light. The "half on, then pull" function of the switch got past me. So for two years I have driving "Little Bully" and didn't know he had functioning fog lights. 
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HOLY CRIPES... ok...so I read to clean the turbo sensor behind the fuel pressure sensor. It was totally easy and my milage jumped from 22mpg back up to 27.2 on a city 30 mile round trip doing errands. I should have known that because I would clean the O2 sensor on my Cadillac and the performance and mpg would jump back up. Now, I'm wondering what other sensor I can clean.?!?
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Ok, Yall...here's the story on the oil light coming on at revs over 1,500 when cold. 88,000 miles and it was the sensor. Easy to replace. It's on the back side where the oil filter screws on and you have to take to skid plate off to get to it. The skid plate it's very simple with 4 bolts and a short 3/8" extension. The dealer had a sensor in stock for $65 bucks (I could have bought it cheaper on eBay.) I love this damn Jeep. I read a post by a european bragging about how "BULLET PROOF" these VM Mitori engines are and they drive them all over their continent for decades. Their only complaint it the government mandated crap on the exterior. Now... I know... that an oil sensor in not government mandated but 88,000 miles ain't bad. I have a set of tires that are rated for 60,000 miles and I remember back in the 60's when we couldn't make the whole damn car go 60,000 miles...lol...
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Replying to: andrewjake (Nov 21, 2009 11:04 pm) That's funny! I did the same thing when I bought my CRD too. Okay, just to let you know, (cuz I had no clue) that when your fox lights don't work anymore... just replace the fuse. I had no idea that they were on the fuse. 
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Replying to: tony_eye (Jul 15, 2009 3:32 pm) I have the same problems as you do. My turbo has been replaced and my EGR valve has been replaced twice and the fuel pump too, I believe. I had no idea how to describe what was going on, and you have described all my issues. Recently, my CRD has been stalling. I figured out it's a loss of fuel pressure. I have to prime it about 20 times and than it will start. My problems don't seem to be going away. Is there something I can clean to prevent this from happening? DieselKimmie |
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Replying to: andrewjake (Nov 22, 2009 1:04 pm) Hi again, Can you tell me how to clean the turbo sensor behind the fuel pressure sensor? Or tell me where I can find instructions on how to clean it? Is there anything else I can clean to improve my CRD? I have a loss of fuel pressure and by this, I'm stalling frequently, I'll have to prime it about 20 times than I'll get her running again. But it's a pain in my butt to keep having to do this, and it's not reliable... My turbo, ERG (twice) and the fuel pump have been replaced. It's getting old. My mileage is around 22 also, when it should be more towards 30. Any help would be greatly appreciated. DieselKimmie |
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Point that I remember...For a Happy CRD 2.8 Turbo Diesel... A. Use Chevron "white" diesel (it's easier on the expensive fuel filters and cleaner on the EGR and CAT). (bio-fuel would be fun, cool, feel and smell better but where can we get that, right?) B. Drain the water from the fuel filter every 10k. C. Bleed the air from the top of filter with pump every 10k. D. Clean the MAP sensor every 10k. E. Clean the MAF sensor every 10k (I suggest a tooth brush and MAF cleaner for both). F. Clean the Turbo filter with a different clean tooth brush and compressed air every 10k or sooner if you drive a lot of dusty roads or follow on the same. G. Get a 5/8" bailer plug from marine store for the oil pan plug because some moron is going to strip it out. H. add this to the regular schedule of maintenance and I could not point to one that would be more important than the other because just about either of one of them (excluding the bailer plug) will make your CRD run like CRUD and make you think you have a lemon. BUT YOU DON'T...The VM Mitori engine is bullet proof...it's the American emissions, sensors and dirty fuel that we have to clean up and think diesel. I. "I" is for what "I" don't know yet... DieselKimmie...The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is behind the fuel pressure sensor on the right rear top side of the motor. Take the motor cover off by removing the oil cap and pull the entire cover up and off. Disconnect both the fuel sensor plug and the MAP sensor plug. Do not remover the fuel pressure sensor, you just need the extra room to work. You can pull up the wiring harness to get better access. Use an allen wrench to remove the one allen screw that holds in the sensor. Be careful not to drop the screw. The sensor pushes in and pulls out with a donut gasket. Clean it with MAP sensor cleaner or break parts cleaner and an old tooth brush. Put it back in. The MAF (mass air flow) sensor is located in front of the airbox filter. Take it out , clean it, put it back in. The turbo air filter is behind the air box. It looks like an inline fuel filter but bigger and is open to air. Take it off...use compressed air to clean or replace. let me know how it goes... |
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Hi All, I could use some help and direction. The Jeep dealer says my EGR valve has failed and they want to charge me $850.00 U.S. that I don't have. Is this necessary? I haven't noticed any performance problems other than the check engine light. I have 41,500 miles on the 2005. What do you recomemend? Can this be done by a novist mechanic? Jeep told me they have to calibrate it when the EGR valve is replaced (not surewhat that means exactly). The part lists for $220.00 U.S. can the original be cleaned? I doubt it had anything cleaned on it I bought it with 30,400 about 8 months ago and I've done nothing except for change the oil (mobil 1 0w-40) and wix oil filter and rotate the tires. Typicall I only get 23 to 24 mpg. Of course I'd like to increase that if possible. Thanks in advance |
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