Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 2:10 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
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Jeep Liberty, Jeep, Diesel
#355 of 364 Re: The knock that won't die. [charlottemaria]
Apr 04, 2012 (8:21 pm)
Did you have any luck with the knock?
Did you get the emergency brake Checked?
#357 of 364 Has Anyone Replaced the Catalytic Converter on their CRD w/ a Bypass Pipe?
May 21, 2012 (4:53 am)
Has Anyone Replaced the Catalytic Converter w/ a Bypass Pipe including the Sensor?
#358 of 364 Glow Plug Light - Jeep Liberty
Jul 23, 2012 (1:12 pm)
Should the glow plug light flash on even when it is warm? My wife drives the car daily and swears it always came on until we had problems and took it it into the dealer.
Last spring, we had a problem starting our 06 Jeep Liberty CRD and the dealer found one bad glow plug and had to replace all the glow plugs because they no longer use ceramic glow plug and have switched to all metal. Dealer had problems big time, fried the computer, replaced the computer and had problems programming the computer. It took weeks until they had it running again. How do we know that the new glow plugs, computer are working? We have another diesel [German] and the glow plug light always comes on.
#360 of 364 jeep liberty diesel plug
Dec 29, 2012 (7:59 am)
i would like to replace the plug on a 2005 jeep liberty 2.8l diesel to a reguarl ended plug . does anyone now the size of the plug
#361 of 364 Re: The knock that won't die. [charlottemaria]
Jan 10, 2013 (6:11 am)
I had a similar noise when braking and it turned out to be my rear u-joint.
#362 of 364 Be extra vigilant of oil leaks.
Jan 11, 2013 (10:03 pm)
I want to warn everyone. Do not allow any oil leaks to go for even a short period. With changes coming at every 6000 miles and me retired I don't have to do it as often as I used to. Evidently shortly after my last oil change the EGR which had about 100,000 miles on it started malfunctioning. That caused some oil to get pushed out somewhere such that the wind sprayed it all over under the hood. The dealer suggested it was the oil separator which I had replaced about 8,000 miles earlier.
Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.
The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.
Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.
So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.
Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
#364 of 364 Need catalytic inverter for CRD 05!
Apr 15, 2013 (2:10 pm)
Yes, you red me right.
My car was purchased fr Oregon, we did not realize it had been stripped of its cat converter, which is required in California.
I am looking or a used one in good working condition.