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Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair

318 messages,  Last post on Aug 30, 2009 at 9:55 AM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Jeep, Diesel


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#310 of 318
Tip in case of alternator failure... by caribou1
Nov 14, 2008 (1:45 am)
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Just in case you intend to replace your alternator, get hold of a 7mm hex key plus a 7mm closed ring wrench (offset or flat) before you start.
 
To remove the alternator, there are two long bolts:
- One is close to the engine (where the serpentine belt passes); you will need to pass the hex key through the ring wrench first and use both tools to remove this soft steel bolt. This is a pain because 7mm hex is not really standard and the low profile female hex bolt head should have been made a little harder
- The other bolt uses standard sizes (13 and 15mm).
 
The ring wrench can apply torsion onto the hex key right next to the head of the bolt without the risk of widening the female hex. The complete alternator changing time including battery disconnection / re connection, serpentine belt removal and reassembly took me less than 30 minutes once I had the 7mm hex key in hand.
 
Once I re started the engine, I measured the new alternator output:
- Idling voltage immediately reached 14.20 Volts A/C was still 'ON'
- With front and rear fog lights + headlamps + blower set to '4' + mirrors and boot de-icing I measured 13.70 Volts at idle speed.
- There is no voltage loss between the alternator body and vehicle ground. The same applies between the '+' terminal of the alternator and the '+' of the battery.
- Measured AC ripple is less than 25 mV with the new regulator. This value was measured 9 times higher (.23V) when the regulator had gone.
#311 of 318
Re: New guy! [caribou1] by andymcrey
Dec 27, 2008 (11:01 am)
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Replying to: caribou1 (Sep 08, 2008 11:44 am)

Hi caribou1,
Sorry I haven't replied before now, yes I have had the mod for for securing hoses although never had a problem with it anyhow. I have disconnected both the EGR and air flow meter to try and get some more mpg as the price of fuel here is crippling, can stretch out to about 34 mpgbut a lot less when towing.Off roading here is very different to the US thanks to all the 'friends of the earth' I use mine to get me to rural areas where I shoot wild game and am really pleased with its off road ability, as good as a Land Rover Defender but with creature comforts!
#312 of 318
Problems with EGR Valve on 05 Liberty CRD by jraguilar86
Jun 09, 2009 (3:38 pm)
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Hey everyone,
My first post on this issue, thought I could get some help. My EGR valve keeps messing up. My check engine light keeps going off every time this happens and it always codes for an EGR problem. This will be the 3rd time I replace the EGR valve in the past 2 years. The second time it was replaced under warranty, but I'm tired of having to change this same part so many times. Why does it keep going out? and what can I do to prevent it?
#313 of 318
Re: Problems with EGR Valve on 05 Liberty CRD [jraguilar86] by siberia
Jun 19, 2009 (8:49 am)
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Replying to: jraguilar86 (Jun 09, 2009 3:38 pm)

At 22K miles engine codes indicted that EGR valve had failed and dealer replaced under warrantee. I saw the part that was replaced and it did not look bad having only a light coating of soot, apparently stuck in closed position. Anyway, over the past 43K miles the engine light has occurred several times and the codes indicated EGR valve problem. I used my scan tool to clear the codes and just drove it. Right now I am at around 12K miles since the last engine light. My guess is that (in my case) under certain conditions when systems are in transition the computer reads information that indicates a problem when none really exists.
 
Also, I drive sometimes to clean out the valve. What I do is run 55 MPH with overdrive off for a few miles. According to my scan tool, intake manifold input air temperature is high under this condition indicating that the EGR valve is pretty much wide open. Then I floor it up to around 70 MPH to fully close the valve – still overdrive off.
 
I am just telling you my situation and not trying to say that this is your problem or that what I am doing will work in your case. You could have a different problem and replacing the EGR valve is not the solution.
#314 of 318
Re: Problems with EGR Valve on 05 Liberty CRD [siberia] by caribou1
Jul 08, 2009 (11:19 pm)
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Replying to: siberia (Jun 19, 2009 8:49 am)

Hi Siberia,
Last week I cleaned the engine compartment for the first time : this is my 150,000 Km service.
 
I desperately checked for leaks and inspected the Boost Pressure Sensor. Since I disconnected the EGR (about 5 years ago) there is no soot on the sensor anymore.
 
I have a slight diesel fuel smell after one hour of travel but no trace of leak around the engine. All injector connections were tight and dry.
 
The only corrective action I had to take was to clean a 'solid' deposit that had formed inside the fuel filter bowl, under the heating element. This took me 15 minutes and one dozen Q-Tips
#315 of 318
Re: Problems with EGR Valve on 05 Liberty CRD [jraguilar86] by tony_eye
Jul 15, 2009 (3:32 pm)
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Replying to: jraguilar86 (Jun 09, 2009 3:38 pm)

Hi,
I'm new to this forum and also have problems with the EGR valve on my 2005 Jeep Liberty. At 50,000 miles the check engine light came on and there was a loss of power at low RPM. When the engine was cold there was almost no throttle response from a stop, then a huge power surge and an equally huge black cloud behind me. My local Jeep dealer (where I am employed) replaced the EGR and cleaned the system. Everything worked great until 68,000 miles. I now have the exact same problem. I have noticed on this forum that several people have disconnected their EGR valve. I talked to our technician about that and he said he could do it but that the check engine light would be on continually. Is there a way around that?
#316 of 318
Re: Malfunction Indicator Light [farout] by carwash
Aug 04, 2009 (2:42 pm)
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Replying to: farout (Nov 12, 2006 12:31 pm)

Farout
Re engine light remaining on (after 3 warmups) If it is a glitch in the system, try this: Hold the mileage rest button in and turn the key to the stop before starting. You will see a self test occur with lights, and dials sequencing, and if a glitch, may cancet the engine light.. It worked on mine on a couple of occasions in the past.
Not this time though, as I have a P1140 code, but have not tried all the suggestions mentioned above. Hope it cures your engine light on, problem.
#317 of 318
Timing Belt Change Parts Sources by ddvman
Aug 29, 2009 (1:27 pm)
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Hi,
   It's time to change the timing belt on my 06 CRD Liberty.
The dealer quotes almost $900 in parts to do the job.
In light of all the current problems at Chrysler, I'm looking for sources for parts for this engine. I'm open to any suppliers in the U.S. or Europe. Was this engine used by any other manufacturers? It is the 2.8L 4-Cyl. Turbo Diesel Engine (CRD).
 
Any help would be greatly appreciate.
 
Thanks!
 
Dan
#318 of 318
Re: Timing Belt Change Parts Sources [ddvman] by caribou1
Aug 30, 2009 (9:55 am)
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Replying to: ddvman (Aug 29, 2009 1:27 pm)

Hi ddvman,
You're being asked 1/2 of what I had to pay to have the work done at 60,000 miles, so welcome to Jeep's rich owners club
This morning I met a retired couple from Great Britain who got rid of their Liberty because of prohibitive cost of maintenance beyond 100,000 miles. They were looking at my CRD because their brand new Honda CRV had a problem and no parts were available yet on the continent. Sad but true, they have to drive 700 miles to get back home in a rental Fiat. The lady said she preffered the Jeep to the Honda.

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