Last post on Jun 11, 2013 at 7:56 AM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
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#5647 of 5872 Re: 2005 vs 2006 -- which to pick? [mr_gone]
Jun 09, 2011 (12:34 pm)
I agree with you about Honda styles. I have an '05 Accord EX-L Coupe which I really love. However, I don't think the style is that great. After I saw the new 2012 Civic four door, I posted a comment in that forum about Honda's lousy designs. I was "blasted" for saying anything negative about Honda. I do think Honda's styles are in the negative. The 2008+ Accord Couple looks awful.
#5648 of 5872 Re: 2005 vs 2006 -- which to pick? [amy911]
Jun 09, 2011 (12:40 pm)
I have an '05 Accord 5 speed EX-L. This is the first car that I have followed Honda's recommended service to the letter and then some. I have 107,000 trouble free miles. I believe that when you keep it serviced like they recommend that you keep it in top operating condition and that it will pay off. I really don't consider that I have wasted money on that.
Jun 13, 2011 (11:59 am)
I have 106,000 trouble free miles and the car has never been to a honda dealer (aside from minor warranty adjustments in the first few months). I have done all maintenance myself - so far only oil and filter changes. Will probably change the spark plugs soon though - or at least inspect them.
#5650 of 5872 just to be safe
Jun 13, 2011 (12:42 pm)
Since my '05 (62K) is in having the faulty solenoid replaced, I am having the manual trans fluid changed also. I pretty much qualify as the severe schedule, and this falls into my "cheap insurance" catagory. Should be good to go for another year or so (coolant probably should be done by then). Only thing in the distant horizon is the plugs. Already changed the air filter and brake fluid, so nothing left that qualifies as 60K maintenance I don't think.
#5651 of 5872 New Sway Bar and End Links & TSX wheels
Jun 13, 2011 (1:10 pm)
So the sway bar is swapped. The Honda End Links, well, suck. They are a one-time use part. To remove them, the instructions say to slip a 5mm allen key into the bolt and then use a 14mm wrench on the nut. The bolt is of less than stellar quality and corrodes to the point you can't get the nut off without excessive force...which invariably strips out the allen head in the end of the bolt. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is the only way to go. I'm amazed at how much more difficult the 2007 is to work on than the 1993 (although we will see when I do front brakes). Anyway, I now have Moog end links and an Acura TL rear sway bar.
At ~62k the tires are finishing up. I scored some Acura TSX 17x7 wheels off eBay and will be installing 215/50R17 tires. I am hoping those upgrades (tires/wheels/sway bar) help the car feel a little more lively. Now I just have to figure out what 3-season tires I want; the stock rims (or 15" steels) will have winter tires.
Jun 13, 2011 (1:47 pm)
what year and make and when did you change the timing belt or dare I ask have you?
#5653 of 5872 Re: - [michael2595]
Jun 13, 2011 (3:01 pm)
It is an Accord as per this thread. Model year is 2007 and it does not have a timing belt. The car runs perfectly, brakes have more than 50% all around. Clutch is still like new, mpg is stellar. I did add a little bit of coolant - may change that out soon, but it still looks like new when you open the cap.
I exclusively use Mobil 1 0w-20 with Pur 1 synthetic oil filters, and change at the maintenance minders reccomendation - about 8 or 9k. Not sure I am going to change the brake fluid anytime soon. I am pretty easy on brakes so the fuild never gets hot - it should last indefinately. I am almost more worried about contaminates getting in when it is changed than I am about older fluid. In some of my past cars I never had any brake issues until shortly after the fluid was changed - VW Scirocco to name one.
Jun 13, 2011 (4:01 pm)
The concern with brake fluid is not how hard you use your brakes, it's the fact that the fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. Humidity and the absorbtion of water is the issue, not wear and tear from use.
Jun 14, 2011 (6:20 am)
For the brake fluid, I would think not getting them hot might be worse, since it won't get rid of the water! But I could be wrong there.
anyway, had they evap valve solenoid (which was actually a fairly large size box) replaced. Took a return trip, since the CEL came back on as soon as I got home. Turns out that when the old one failed, something shredded inside, and some debris got into the line and was blocking the airflow, so the computer flagged it again. Took off the line and blew it out, and seems to be fine now.
Also seems to shift smoother, but that could all be in my head. The real test will be how easy it is to get into reverse (occasionally that could be balky), but that might not have anything to do with the fluid.
#5656 of 5872 Re: update [stickguy]
Jun 14, 2011 (6:32 am)
>the brake fluid, I would think not getting them hot might be worse, since it won't get rid of the water!
The brake fluid is a closed system. No water can escape. The brake fluid and water together are called an azeotrope IIRC: water in the fluid lowers the boiling point of the fluid. So if brakes are used hard and the fluid in the caliper or wheel cylinder gets hot enough, the combination boils causing loss of ability to compress the fluid and apply the friction material--loss of braking--just like an air bubble would do if the brakes weren't bled. When the fluid cools, the bubble of water vapor condenses back into the fluid.