Last post on May 07, 2013 at 7:55 PM
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Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
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#5493 of 5868 Re: Honda quality????? [Mr_Shiftright]
Dec 15, 2010 (9:37 am)
Regarding the coolant, unless I'm mistaken, w/ the 2004 Accord i4, per the manual you had to do the coolant at 120k miles and then every 60k miles. Why do it earlier? I'm not sure about my family's other Hondas ('07 CR-V AWD and '07 Accord EX i4) but I thought they were something aroudn the same. They use the maintenance minder thing so usually I use the edmunds maintenance guide to figure out where I should be and what I should be doing.
#5494 of 5868 Thinking I need to replace wife's 07 Accord i4 Battery, now at 41k miles
Dec 15, 2010 (9:50 am)
Thanks for starting the discussion on the battery. A couple months back My wife's '07 Accord i4 battery had died over the weekend and needed to be jumped. It's been feeling weaker on start so I'm thinking about replacing it. The car's at around 41k miles now and was bought new in September '07. I think it's outside any warranty window now. In June, when the car was at 33,611 miles and less than 3 years old, I had the battery tested from the dealer as part of a package I had done w/ oil change and other inspections. They reported it good (rating 410 CCA, 12.90V 477CCA) so at that time, I think if they had noticed something it could have been done under warranty.
I'd of course like the get the best battery I can for her car. I'm wonder if I'm still the same group 54 as you in my '07 i4 and could go the same route you did. I'm nervous about anything too complicated since I'm not very familiar w/ car battery replacement. So when you say "take out the battery box," is that something I can do? How much is a replacement box from the V-6 that you're planning to get? or aftermarket?
If you think doing what you did is not for the faint of heart, what's the easiest/best way to go? In my old 2004 i4 Accord (which is now my sister's), I think I put in a battery from sears many years back and as far as I know it's still in there. I guess it's doing ok, I'm not really sure. I'll post details on that later
Dec 15, 2010 (11:24 am)
As some of you know the rotors on that car are made of tissue.... turned them twice and are now pulsing... Back rotors are fine.. I am changing the fronts and not with Honda rotors.. Do I also need to change the back rotors.. People tell me in this situation it would not be good to use OEM rotors
Any suggestions as to what type of rotors, or anyhting else I should do would be deeply appreciated.. Never expected this from Honda .. I may have 18k miles on it.
#5496 of 5868 Re: 2007 Honda Accord [michael2595]
Dec 15, 2010 (11:35 am)
Are you sure it's an 07? I've read the stories about the current generation (08-present) but the previous generation was pretty solid. My 06 (identical to the 07) is well over 80k on the original brakes and rotors. No tissue here.
Dec 15, 2010 (11:48 am)
i like that car
Dec 15, 2010 (3:46 pm)
97k on my original brakes and rotors. The rear are about half worn and the front about a third.
having said that they do have a very slight pulse that shows up sometimes if you are braking extremely lightly as you coast to a stop you can just feel the brakes grab and release a little as the tires rotate. I know better than to fix this since cutting the rotors will just make them thinner and they will be much worse after a few weeks. No reputable shop should have turned them twice and expected them to get better. New rotors are the answer.
I actually just went through this on my wife's Sienna as well. She wanted (not needed) new front brakes at about 92k. The shop said it would be fine to turn them I said I just wanted pads don't turn. They gave me some gobbldegook about safety and said they had to turn them. Sure enough they warped within a week after they were turned even though they had absolutely no pulsing before the brake job.
They replaced the rotors with some generic brand (I just paid the difference for the new rotors) and they are fine again.
As far as changing the battery goes it is simple. All you need is a 10 mm wrench. Undo the terminals to the battery and the two nuts on the battery hold down (4 10 mm nuts total). Remove the hold down and remove the battery. The plastic cover for the battery is in two pieces. The top piece will come out with the battery as it is just sitting on top of the battery. The bottom piece is then just sitting on a steel plate and can just be lifted out.
If you want the simplest procedure possible to install the new battery do what I did (since it was 5 degrees and I didn't want to mess around too long). Just place the battery on the steel shelf and bolt it down with the original hold down. You will need to bend one small tab on the hold down to make it fit better.
I will install the hold down from the V-6 (about 3 bucks) for a perfect fit as the I4 hold down does not contact perfectly (still plenty good to hold the battery, but not ideal). You can either leave the battery naked or buy new upper and lower covers from Honda. The lower is about $25 and the upper is about $15. The covers help protect the battery from engine heat and maybe keep it a little warmer in the winter (you could argue they protect it from engine heat then as well).
Being a cheapskate I will probably cut the lower cover to fit the new battery and then buy the upper cover.
The battery I wound up with was an Everstart Max from walmart as it was well rated by Cr and wal mart is everywhere and always open if I have a problem. The Bosch batteries that pep-boys sells and the duralast (top model) from autozone (I think) were also top rated as was the diehard gold (more expensive).. This is for a group 35 battery.
Also - I made a mistake about the original size it is a 51r not a 54. Part of the problem with the 51 is that it is so thin that nobody makes their premium batteries in that size.
I was a little disapointed that my original only lasted 3.5 years (it gave me problems last year at 2.5 years, but I nursed it through the winter) as my Integra original battery lasted over 7 years under the same conditions.
One other note. Some battery gurus feel the Johnson Controls versions of the Everstart Max are better than those made by Exide. Walmart carries both.
Dec 15, 2010 (6:50 pm)
Make sure if you are going with a group 51 battery that you know if you need a 51 or a 51r. This happened to me a few years ago. (I'm pretty sure that the sizes involved were 51 and 51r, but it might have been a different group size.) They are exactly the same size, but the terminals are reversed on the 51r with respect to the 51. You have to know which one you need so that your cables will fit on the proper terminal of the battery.
Dec 15, 2010 (8:44 pm)
>Some battery gurus feel the Johnson Controls versions of the Everstart Max are better than those made by Exide.
The Everstart MAXX from Walmart that I had put in my Buick had a 9 year warranty and only lasted about 7.5 years. Walmart prorated the replacement! Actually, I was impressed. That battery lasted longer than any battery I ever had before.
I searched for a Johnson Controls battery for my replacement in my newer car. Walmart didn't make the battery for my car. Advance Auto parts had a battery that was vented for use in my car under the seat--by Johnson Controls.
#5501 of 5868 Re: - [dudleyr]
Dec 17, 2010 (1:13 pm)
thanks for the breakdown. suggestions on where to buy the hold down, upper, and lower covers? dealer?