Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 8:15 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#5388 of 5901 Re: 2004 Accord [edhollow]
Aug 31, 2010 (1:10 pm)
I am on the opposite end of the spectrum. I see extended warranties as a complete waste. I bought the extended warranty for my 92 EX, and never needed it. The only out-of-pocket repair that car had, after the regular warranty ran out, was an A/C temperature control knob (under $5), which cracked. When I bought the 03 EX V6 I quickly declined the offer of an extended warranty. It now has 80k miles on it, and I've only replaced a door lock actuator (under $40). Chances are, the extended warranty will cost more than the repairs needed in 100k miles. Honda has been very very good to me.
#5389 of 5901 2005 ACCORD THROTTLE BODY PART
Sep 02, 2010 (3:12 pm)
Hve a 2005 Accord EX V6, after big problems with the power failing it was determined the throttle body was the culprit. Had it changed at 99,000 miles, happened again today with 102,000, it is being re-fixed under warranty, but i am worried, mechanic said this has been the error being brought up with the computer, anyone else have anything like this??? Thanks in advance.
#5390 of 5901 Re: 2004 Accord [elroy5], [edhollow], [dan41] (Extended warranties on Honda
Sep 05, 2010 (5:20 pm)
I agree w/ elroy5 about the extended warranty on the Honda. Since 2004, Me, my wife, and dad have bought 3 new Honda cars - 2004 Accord I4, 2007 CR-V EX-L, 2007 Accord I4. Never bought the extended warranty. On my 2004 Accord, in early '09, had a problem w/.. something after the engine w/ the accord well over 100k miles. I think it was somewhere w/in a hundred to a few hundred to fix. Otherwise nothing out of that. With my 2007 Accord, I messed up some rubber seal or something when I was standing out of my sunroof to do something and since I finally got around to taking it to the dealer just a little bit after warranty expired, they split the cost of with me making my total $50
The 2004 Accord (bought 4/2004( is at a little over 166,371 miles and the 2007 accord (bought 9/2007) is at a little over 36,611 miles. Not sure what the CR-V is at.
The extended warranties would have been a waste for me on two cars so far.. mostly a waste on another - but still have a ways to go w/ mileage so could be wrong on that.
#5391 of 5901 Re: Idle Learn Procedure Request [alamocity]
Sep 05, 2010 (5:26 pm)
I'm a little confused - what's this whole idle learn procedure all about? I have a 2004 accord i4 sedan, 2007 i4 coupe, and 2007 cr-v ex-L. Bought all new
#5392 of 5901 Re: 2004 Accord front shocks replacement [lilengineerboy],[daveturner]
Sep 05, 2010 (5:50 pm)
lilengineerboy: Thanks for the information on shocks, some good lessons learned with your write-up. I'm handling the maintenance for 4 cars between my wife and family. On our two higher mileage cars, 2004 Accord (166k+) and 2007 CR-V (70kish? 80kish?) haven't done anything w/ shocks.
daveturner: I've bought from tirerack before and had a fine experience. Also have used tirerack.com to get prices down from local B&M places. My favorite place to go when replacing all 4 tires is wal-mart. I feel their price is low and you can come back for a tire balance and rotation for a lifetime
#5393 of 5901 Maint for 06 Accord lx
Sep 05, 2010 (6:18 pm)
i have been going through the past posts of this forum and they are great.
I just bought an used 06 accord lx. the car is in good condition and has under 40k miles on it. I wanted to know, is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system? I have had a bad experience car shopping with dealers so i dont trust them now so i thought i might get to know this here.
Also, i was a bit disappointed that TPMS is not standard on 06 accord. I saw these cheap 5$ valves at the store which indicate if the tire pressure if below/above 27psi. are they reliable? i am a lil nervous because when you fix them, the tires valve will be open 24/7 and the tires will have to depends on these fixtures. whats a good way of monitoring tire pressure?
Sep 05, 2010 (7:21 pm)
have not ever used those caps, but I know what you are talking about.
Simplest solution is to get a good quality digital gauge, and just check them on a regular basis. Do it weekly at first to get a baseline, and if all the tires seem to hold air normally, even once a month should be sufficient, unless you do really high miles per week.
Other than that, visually inspect them frequently for damage, or a noticeable sag (though it would have to be real low to stand out).
Also check them before you take any longer trip, and especially when the weather changes (coming up fast in the NE!). tires can lose ~1# per 10 degree temp drop, so they may be fine at 80, but 5#low at 30.
always check them cold. I like to check cold, then hot the same day to see how much they expand. Then you can make a mental adjustment if you have to check or add air when they are hot.
Sep 05, 2010 (7:23 pm)
also, the simpler versions don't actually tell you that your tires are low. they basically tell you that 1 is different than the others. So, if all your tires are low but evenly so, no warning.
the fancy ones actually take individual readings, which is much more worthwhile IMO
#5396 of 5901 2004 Accord I4 @ 166371 miles (what's happened since 2/2010, what's next)
Sep 05, 2010 (10:45 pm)
Replying to the last post I made (back in 2/22/2010) regarding my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord I4 EX Sedan. At the time, the car was at something over 152,124 miles. I had discussed the oil change I just had done along w/ the tire rotation and balance from walmart. I took it to Firestone w/in a couple weeks after to have the alignment done along with a list of inspections that I pulled ahm-ownerlink.com. They were:
150,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance: Inspect drive belt
140,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance:
Check front and rear brake wear
Check parking brake adjustment
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
Inspect suspension components
Inspect driveshaft boots
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect fuel lines and connections
As far as I know, all these things were fine (I took care of all service items/inspections before then). I don't have that write up on me.
Today the car was at 166,371 miles. I finally took car of the air filter and cabin air filter (not sure when the last time I took care of them was - I think something in the 120k miles). Not sure when I grabbed the Cabin air filter but the air filter was $23.95 from the dealer after being priced down as low as possible for them to match handa-accessories.com's online price of $20.49.
Also today, had taken the car to Firestone to have the alignment done (Have lifetime alignment from them, had the tire rotation and balance done - also free lifetime from walmart - I believe in August. Like to have alignment after rotation and balance). According to the printout, It was taken from -.07 total toe/.02 steer ahead front, .32 total toe/0.0 thrust angle rear to -.05 total toe/.01 steer ahead front and .05 total toe .01 steer ahead. There was something about aftermarket parts for a correction but it wasn't needed? My brother picked it up so I'm not sure. In the paperwork, there's a printout which has the following:
Front camber: Nothing
Front Caster: Nothing
Front Toe: Nothing
Rear Camber: honda/Acura EZ Arm XR - 2 options: 67290 (Specialty Products) / 5.67290k (Eibach)
Fear Toe: Nothing
Ride Heigh: 4.4540 (Eibach) Sportline Performance Lowering Springs
Quite of things going on in the car according to Firestone. Will be taking to Honda dealer today for an oil change so I'll hear their opinions. then I'll go with whoever's the better option:
1) Brakes and Rotors - the biggest thing.
- QC537 Ceramic Disc Brake pads PD537 ($69.99) + R Disc brake rotor(2x$105) + $90 labor = $369.99
- QC914 Ceramic Disc Brake Pads PD914 ($59.99) + Brake Rotor (2x$68.99)+$90 labor = $287.97
These are pretty dead. Looking at the visual inspection writeup:
LF: 85% worn/.901 rotor, RF 85% worn/.900 rotor/LR95% .301 Rotor/101?%worn Grooved .290
If I go w/ the dealer for the brakes, they'll be Honda OEM. If I go w/ Firestone, I'm not sure who they'll use. I'm torn on what's best, this post from lilengineerboy stood out to me amongst quite a few posts discussing this.
2) Battery (Marginal) at $94.99 + $15 labor - My brother mentioned jumps have been needed lately. This I've gotten from Sears I'm not sure how many years back - I want to say in or before '07 because I remember being upset I didn't take the battery to dealer because I thought I read something about a warranty full replacement.
3) Brake Fluid flush (test strip failure) - $20 parts, $60 labor, $23 addition labor to bleed ABS - $103. I already knew this because I'm pretty sure last one was around 3 years ago (car's 6 years old so makes sense). I've purchased two bottles of the Honda Brake Fluid so I'm hoping that'll soften the blow of price. At Firestone alone, it would knock off $20 from the parts cost (however, when I brought up, they said it must be parts they acquire - however, for my '07 CR-V brake fluid flush I had done a few months back, they did allow me to bring in my own brake fluid and made the cost $80ish I believe).
4) Serpentine/700K7Poly Rib belt - $46.99 parts + $100 labor = $146.99 - not sure what this is all about
5) Fuel System Flush suggested- cost? - not sure what this is all about
6) Headlight - 9006 halogen capsule $13.99 + $30 labor
They also mentioned tires but I'll cover those in a separate post.
Seems that's all that was checked, they didn't do a Complete Vehicle Inspection. Usually if I ask for it they will for free instead of the $20 since I'm a gold rewards member.
Lastly, there's a mention that the maintenance and ABS lights are on. The ABS light has been on for a while. The maintenance light should go away once the next oil change today. The oil changes I supply my own oil (Mobil 1) and Honda oil filter so it keeps the costs low. I was going to go w/ Mobil 1 5w-20 instead of the 5w-30 based on the discussion that followed from my last post ( lilengineerboy's post and tankbean's post) but I only had the 20 on me. I'll get back to the 5w-20 next time.
It's also worth mentioning that I've pushed this oil around 14k miles - usually I aim for not much above 10k miles. I didn't mean to, just lost track
I've also mentioned all the things Firestone has pointed out in a letter. And also, as per ahm-ownerlink.com's maintenance schedule: 160,000 mi Inspect idle speed - I've asked them if they can look into it (assuming the costs aren't too bad).
Let's see what happens.
#5397 of 5901 Update on the Good Year Tires on 2004 Accord EX I4
Sep 05, 2010 (11:11 pm)
Just did a long post on what's going on w/ my 2004 Accord EX I4 at 166,3xx miles. I didn't get into details of the tires though. I have a separate chain of posts going regarding that so I thought I would keep it up. I'm replying to my last post on the tires where I discovered that my dad had put on 4 Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RS tires.
Right now, the tires are seem to be fine - at least according to the Firestone Courtesy Check. The front outer/inner is at 5 and the rear outer/inner is at 6.
in lilengineer boy's reply to that post, he mentions the downsides of having the smaller tire. He also mentions the limited options for 16" tires and what I could do with 17" tires (I didn't know that was an option - but wouldn't that also cause problems like the smaller size?). chucko3 also mentions that these tires were downgraded in both: speed rating & load index and that's probably why they wear out faster.
I'll start looking into replacement options through this thread