Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 8:15 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
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#5233 of 5901 Re: 2004 Honda Accord EX 4cyl--personal experience after 185,000 miles [elr [temj12]
Mar 10, 2010 (3:22 pm)
I thought that this body style all had timing chains.
The V6 engines all have timing belts, even the Acura cars have timing belts.
What have you had to do to yours in 185,000?
The only repair I've paid for is a driver's door lock actuator (it started to move slowly up and down), which I changed myself ($35). The windshield wiper motor recall, and radio light extended warranty were paid for by Honda. Can't complain about that.
My 03 EX (L) V6 only has 75k miles on it, but the timing belt change interval is 7 years or 105k miles. It will be 7 years old in September, so the belt will be changed shortly after that. I think the timing belt would last till 10 years (that's about how long it will take me to get to 105k miles), but I'm not going to chance that. I already have the Helm factory manual, with all the details, but I'm gathering helpful hints from techs, and pictures from how-to's on the internet. It seems the main concern most people have is removing the crank pulley bolt, but we have tools where I work, than can remove much larger/tighter bolts than that little thing.
#5234 of 5901 Re: 2004 Honda Accord EX 4cyl--personal experience after 185,000 miles [elr [temj12]
Mar 12, 2010 (8:06 pm)
In response to your question, "what have I done to ours in 185K miles"? Mostly, oil changes religiously every 4 to 5k miles; serpentine belt change at 100,000 miles; coolant changes every 50,000 miles--Honda coolant only; changed and flushed pwr steering fluid at 90,000 miles; tires--Michelin MXV4 S8 replaced at 90,000 miles, because they were rotated every 4k miles( replaced with Michelin Primacy MXV4, better, smoother, sturdier, more responsive ride); A/T fluid drained, refilled every 15 to 30k miles; alignment every 15 to 30K miles as needed, that is why we got "killer" miles from our tires--the tires are "V" rated, about $155-$165 apiece, but worth peace of mind for safety for my wife; and finally, pads and rotor(s), replacement as needed, which for us has been once for the front, and 2X for the rear rotors. O yeah, just replaced all the heater and radiator hoses, at 185,000 miles! Honda parts hold up great, and I usually pick them up at cost, from my local dealership. You can also establish a buying relationship w/ dealers parts dept. or receive them from Rockauto.com . Hope this helps?! edhollow
#5235 of 5901 Re: Door hesitant to latch... [tankbeans]
Mar 15, 2010 (7:25 am)
I'd tell the body shop what's happening. They should be able to correct it pretty quickly... the seal takes some manipulation and funky tools but it shouldn't take them long to see what's going on.
Mar 20, 2010 (9:19 am)
I have a 2003 Accord Coupe and my rear tail lights won't come on. My brake, reverse and signal lights all work. I've changed the bulbs and checked the fuse and they are all ok. What else could be wrong?
#5237 of 5901 03 Accord LX Sedan 4cyl Front Brakes Sticking
Mar 23, 2010 (5:19 am)
The pads on my LF caliper have been hanging-up and dragging on the rotor. A few days ago I removed the pads, cleaned the hardware/backing plate for the pads and lubed all contact points/sliders using a brake lube that I received from the local dealer.
I did notice that the pads fit very tight into the caliper bracket to the point where I had to hammer them back into place.
Itís been a few days and I now have the same problem. Iím thinking of taking it apart again and filing some metal off of the brake pad baking plate so that they fit easily into the caliper.
Is there an issue with this approach of slightly modifying the backing plate? Under normal circumstance I would think that the caliper piston is the cause however the pads are in the mounting bracket so tightly that they may not be backing off of the rotor.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Note that these are the original calipers with 62k and newer OEM rotors and pads (about 15k miles).
Mar 23, 2010 (9:43 am)
might be the contact switch on the brake pedal itself (the gizmo that decides you are pushing the brake pedal down so the tail lights should be switched on).
Try putting the parking brake on with the car running. Pretty sure that will turn on the brake lights too, right?
#5239 of 5901 Re: tail light [stickguy]
Mar 23, 2010 (11:47 am)
I've never heard that the parking brake would engage the taillights. I should look at that myself out of pure curiosity.
#5240 of 5901 Re: tail light [stickguy]
Mar 23, 2010 (12:50 pm)
It won't turn on the brake-lamps.
Mar 23, 2010 (1:50 pm)
I thought that when you put the parking brake on while the car was running the brake lights went on.
Easy enough to find out I guess!
#5242 of 5901 Re: 03 Accord LX Sedan 4cyl Front Brakes Sticking [avalanche2x]
Mar 23, 2010 (2:08 pm)
The pads should not be tight in the calliper brackets. You probably have rust build-up on the calliper brackets, making the clips tight against the pads. Take the pads and clips off of the brackets, and scrape any rust off. If you are using oem pads and shims, you should be able to remove and replace them with your fingers. If you need to beat the pads in with a hammer, they're way too tight. I may have saved a link, with a video on how to clean the callipers. I'll try to find it.