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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair
4940 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 8:06 AM
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I have a 2003 EX 4cyl. with 72K Miles. In the first snow storm of the year, my ABS light went on and my wheels would lock up, making my car just about undriveable. I was able to make it home and brought to my mechanic the next day. They replaced the calipers on my rear brakes, and the light went off. The next snow storm, the light went on again, and my wheels locked up. This time I had the car towed to my work parking lot. The next day, I drove the car and the light went off after about 5 monutes, and drives fine. My mechanic couldn't find anything else wrong. It sounds to me like a sensor problem when it snows, but I don't understand why the wheels are locking up? Has anyone experienced this??
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Replying to: mfish99 (Jan 06, 2009 7:24 am) Does that mean that while you were driving and then applied the brakes, that one or more of the wheels locked up and began to slide on the slippery surface, and if so, which wheel(s)? Or, do you mean, that the brakes applied themselves and locked all four wheels, preventing you from driving the car? Or, do you mean something totally different from those scenarios?
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Replying to: kiawah (Jan 06, 2009 7:55 am)
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| I have an squeal/grinding noise that appears to be coming from the pulley. Does anyone happen to know if it is possible to replace the belt tensioner pulley without having to R&R the tensioner assembly? Thank you. | |
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Replying to: mfish99 (Jan 06, 2009 8:02 am) The car was stopped at a Stop sign. Applied the gas pedal gently, but no movement for a few seconds. I could feel the wheels spinning. The V6 has the TCS, and the TCS light didn't come on during that time. I noticed when that happened, the front wheel wells were filled with slushy snow on a slushy snow road. If the wheels are spinning, the brakes are not locked up. |
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I read several posts about how hard it was to change the air filter on the Gen 7 Accord so I was a bit leery about it. However, it didn't take that long nor was it that hard. I read about removing intake hoses, etc., but all I did was loosen the four screws holding down the air cleaner housing cover. I did have to pull on it toward the engine to get it up and out from under the frame but it wasn't that tough. This was on the I-4, the V6 might be harder. I also changed the cabin filter... that puppy sure gets dirty.
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Replying to: tallman1 (Jan 06, 2009 11:26 pm) 1) Use a wrench instead of a screwdriver. The screw is made for either tool. I found that the screws needed a decent amount of force when cracking them loose for the first filter change. I tried using a screwdriver the first time and ended up almost stripping the tops of the screwdriver indentation off. A socket wrench made the job a lot easier. 2) Use an extension from the wrench that will reach one or two screws that are deeper down in the bay. This is at least the case for V6 models... not sure about I4s.
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Replying to: tallman1 (Jan 06, 2009 11:26 pm) But next time I am in there I will try and see if there is an angle I am not seeing. Not to plug a product but if anyone has not ever used K&N, (or similar cleanable filter), they are worth it. Well, they are worth it if you plan on keeping the car until it dies. Just a little food for thought. |
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Replying to: accord6mt (Jan 07, 2009 7:57 am) I agree. I saw the potential for disaster so I used a socket right away. They are on very tight so it takes some muscle to loosen them. It is good that they don't come out of the housing though. I hate trying to retrieve dropped screws/bolts.  The I4 has screws that are deep as well so I agree that you need an extension. And yes, it is a tight fit but if you really force it, you can get the housing out of the way.
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Replying to: tallman1 (Jan 07, 2009 9:01 am) |
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