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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair
4942 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 4:52 PM
You are in the Honda Accord Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: langjahr (Jan 05, 2009 12:54 pm) If you are going to be tuning your car then you would be fine. However, if you are ready to tune things out you should already be familiar with this. I would stick to OEM and save the money and potential damage by using a plug that was not engineered for your engine. Also, if you are looking for 5hp gains you should be driving a different car. Accords are not meant for "performance" like that. You probably would never noticed 5hp, the only advantage would be engine life through ease of moving the vehicle. Once you start passing 25-30hp you should start to feel the difference because of the power to weight ratio. The Accord is not a drivers car. Buy something that is small and light. Then small HP gains would be noticeable. Those are my two-cents. I am sure there are others who can correct anything I have said or provide a different perspective on plugs. Good luck! |
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Replying to: bvdj84 (Jan 05, 2009 8:36 am) Mrbill |
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Replying to: deliciousbass (Jan 05, 2009 5:51 am) One thing you may want to check. Take the cover off the master cylinder, and check to see if the rubber boot is hanging down. If it is, push it back into the cover. This has been known to cause the Brake light to come on, on older Accords. It may still apply. |
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Replying to: f0rl0rn (Jan 05, 2009 1:02 pm) Yes, the rear brakes do wear faster than the front (on many 7th gen Accords). My rear brakes were changed at 47k miles, and the front were just changed at 60k miles. When you push the calliper piston back in (rear only) you have to turn it clockwise, while pushing. Then line up the groves in the piston with the tab on the inner pad backing plate (should be square with the calliper). There is a paste that comes with the oem pads, that is to be applied between the pad backing and the shims. This paste is supposed to keep the brakes from squealing. If the new pads don't come with shims, use the old ones. There are different opinions on wether or not you should have the rotors turned when replacing the pads. IMO if the brakes are working fine, and there are no deep grooves (1/8") in the rotor, I would not have them turned. It will only make the rotors thinner, and weaker. You just have to break the new pads in carefully. I have a link explaining this, if you want to read it.
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Replying to: elroy5 (Jan 05, 2009 3:34 pm) I'm going to wait until 60k when I take it in for its check-up and have them check it along with my alignment and all that fun stuff. I'm not handy at all. I can change pads and filters that's about it.
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Replying to: langjahr (Jan 05, 2009 12:54 pm) All any plug can do, is burn the gas injected into the cylinder. If the plug is not burning all the fuel, you will smell fuel coming out of the exhaust. As long as the oem plugs are in good condition, I don't see any other type of plug adding HP. A lot of people like to buy higher resistance plug wires, and not matching up the rest of the ignition system. The way I hear it, if the spark plug wires are stronger, they will only put more pressure on the coil and other ignition parts. I say keep everything OEM. |
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Replying to: tankbeans (Jan 05, 2009 3:52 pm) Sorry, but I was talking about rear disk brakes only. Should have made that clear, I guess.  My old truck had rear drums, and at 60k miles they still looked brand new.
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Replying to: elroy5 (Jan 05, 2009 4:16 pm) 
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Replying to: tankbeans (Jan 05, 2009 4:20 pm) |
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I have a 2003 EX 4cyl. with 72K Miles. In the first snow storm of the year, my ABS light went on and my wheels would lock up, making my car just about undriveable. I was able to make it home and brought to my mechanic the next day. They replaced the calipers on my rear brakes, and the light went off. The next snow storm, the light went on again, and my wheels locked up. This time I had the car towed to my work parking lot. The next day, I drove the car and the light went off after about 5 monutes, and drives fine. My mechanic couldn't find anything else wrong. It sounds to me like a sensor problem when it snows, but I don't understand why the wheels are locking up? Has anyone experienced this??
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