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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

2254 messages,  Last post on Jan 23, 2013 at 7:44 AM

You are in the Honda Accord Forum.

What is this discussion about? Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan

Messages Page 219 of 226

#2178 of 2254 Re: [darkchaos1] by mldd2003

Aug 28, 2011 (12:59 pm)

Replying to: darkchaos1 (Jan 04, 2009 9:00 pm)
And did this problem affect you afterwords? is your D4 light still off?

#2179 of 2254 Re: scooter42 [42scooter] by madvibes

Sep 23, 2011 (10:55 am)

Replying to: 42scooter (May 17, 2011 4:37 pm)
I am having the same issue Scooter.
I have a 02 EX 4dr and boy oh boy, when i got it new took it to the dealer about 5 times after experiencing the problems on the road but "like always" the problem never occurred when it was brought to the dealer.
 
im at 78K and the issue is starting to reoccur.
Its driving me nuttssssssss!
i will call the dealer and inform them on what i am aware of.

#2180 of 2254 1999 accord by jabh12

Oct 29, 2011 (7:22 am)

hi, i bought a used 1999 accord and when i went to inspection i failed because of codes p0505 and p1457. Can anyone explain and help or more details please thanks

#2181 of 2254 trouble codes by MrShift@Edmunds HOST

Oct 29, 2011 (10:11 am)

505 is a malfunction in the Idle Air Control System---could be the IAC valve, or perhaps a good cleaning of the throttle body might fix this, or also an idle adjustment might work
 
1457 is a malfunction in the EVAP (Evaporative Emissions Control System) and has to be tested with a smoke machine for vacuum leaks (could also be a bad gas cap).

#2182 of 2254 1999 Honda Accord Coupe LX with V6 Engine is Overheating... by riffraff

Nov 12, 2011 (10:45 am)

Car started overheating at idle or in traffic this past Spring and I can't figure out how to get it to stop. Replaced the stock Honda thermostat with an autoparts store thermostat. Also replaced the thermostat sensor with an autoparts store sensor. Basically, as far as the sensor and thermostat goes, I used local autoparts store parts, instead of Honda parts.
 
The fans don't come on. The drivers side fan will come on, but more often than not, you have to push the AC button to get it to come on. The passenger side fan doesn't come on at all it seems. I plugged it into the drivers side plug and it works, so I don't know why it's not coming on when plugged into it's own plug.
 
The top radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose only gets warm. The dash guage sometimes goes from 3/4 to fully hot at idle. The problem is becoming more and more common as the months go by. Only thing buying me time for the moment are the cold temps. Please help.

#2183 of 2254 Re: 1999 Honda Accord Coupe LX with V6 Engine is Overheating... [riffraff] by MrShift@Edmunds HOST

Nov 12, 2011 (11:15 am)

Replying to: riffraff (Nov 12, 2011 10:45 am)
If the overheating is only at low speed or idle than you have an AIR circulation problem, not a coolant circulation problem--so it seems like this is about the cooling fans, not the thermostat, radiator, water pump, etc.

#2184 of 2254 2000 EX-L V-6 AT - general experience by zaffo1

Dec 13, 2011 (12:03 pm)

I am driving the 2000 Accord I bought new for my mother. Only had 66,000 miles, so you can see it is not driven too much. Some specific issues I have had that I thought I would share:
 
Won't idle / Check Engine Light / stalls
 
This symptom started popping up at about 59,000 miles and 10 years of age. The idle became suddenly very rough and would even stall. It ran fine once over 20 MPH or so.
 
This is typical of an air leak in the intake some place that I used to experience with my Fords. I looked and looked, but could not find a cracked hose. The Ford hoses would crack and your idle would go bad. The other culprit is the IAC Idle Air Control valve. In my Fords it never went bad, I just cleaned it every couple of years. Looking for the obvious answer, I went looking for the IAC on the Accord. It is in between the throttle body and the intake and has cooling lines routed to it. It is also held in place by tamper proof 5 pointed star security bits. These I ordered from Amazon for $15. When I got the valve out, it was obvious this was the problem. A can of Gumout was needed to clean the oil and carbon build up that was blocking the valve from functioning normally. The part was $110, so I cleaned it up really well rather than replacing. It worked well and the car has been perfect since.
 
I had the timing belt done at 10 years at a local indy shop.
 
Just recently I replaced all 4 rotors and front calipers. The rotors and calipers are original. Front rotors had been machined once at the dealer years ago with prior pad replacement. When I went to replace pads recently, The caliper started to leak when I pushed the piston in. 2 rebuilt loaded Nissin calipers went on along with new rotors - rear got new pads and rotors - for $320. Flushed and bled the fluid, and the braked feel and act 100%. I am very happy.
 
This car looks and feels better than any bought new and kept 10 years or longer. My Fords were just as reliable and trouble free, but did not hold up cosmetic ally.
 
My 2006 EX-L V-6 is holding up very nicely with 60,000 miles. It just got 4 new rotors and pads and feels good as new - for $200. Just keeping up with oil, coolant and transmission fluid changes is enough.
 
Brakes pads and parts are cheap enought that I just replace and buy remanufactured rather than try and machine or rebuild. It is easier too.

#2185 of 2254 98 Accord EX, ticking noise when running A/C by truckie4life

Jan 04, 2012 (11:16 pm)

Ok, so I have a 98 Accord EX, 4 cylinder, 5 speed. When I turn on the A/C to "1" or "2" setting for A/C or heat, you hear a ticking noise. When you turn it up to "3" or "4", the noise seems to quiet down a little but you can still hear it.
 
So what can it be? The blower? The compressor? Trash?

#2186 of 2254 does low battery power cause error codes by royalrooter

Jan 28, 2012 (7:56 am)

2002 ex 4 cyl - went for sticker and 2 readiness codes are showing up, cat converter and evap failure. The only engine light code I get is the 420 for the cat converter. I put in an after market converter a year ago and the tester says if I can clear the evap failure I can get a sticker. Question is, the code for evap doesn't show up when I put the OBD II on it only during the readiness scan. Some have suggested this could be due to the battery being low, which it is, but not sure if I want to invest in a new one yet without knowing how much more I will need to do before getting a sticker. Would low battery power cause an evap failure?

Messages Page 219 of 226

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