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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair
1580 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2008 at 1:54 PM
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We have a 1999 Accord (97K miles) that cuts off while driving. The flashing "green key" and a blank lcd odometer display are the only indications on the dash. The radio still works. It is worse the past few weeks with the warmer weather. It may take 4 - 6 attempts to restart. It happened in the summer/fall 2007 and I took it in to the dealer for a day; then an independent shop (for a week). They couldn't replicate the problem. We drove the car for over 1,000 miles during the winter months in Metro Atlanta, GA with few or no problems. The ignition switch was replaced under the 2002 recall. A garage I took it to this week said it was the ignition switch. They said their certainty was high. They also said it should go to Honda because they have to program something when they replace the ignition switch. I spoke to an auto electric shop that someone recommended and he said it didn't sound like the ignition switch. I've read a lot of the forums and I'm frustrated. We also have a Silencer Security System disabler on the car that was on the car when we bought it new from the dealer. Thanks, |
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Just a disclaimer - I am NOT a car person! I wish I were, but sadly mechanics intimidate the crap out of me. Anyway... My '98 Accord has been having some starter problems for the last few months, so we recently took it to a Honda specialist (local mechanic), who replaced the starter. However, when I picked it up, I discovered the following: 1) the left F/R windows will move from the driver's controls 2) the right F/R windows will NOT move from the driver's controls, but WILL move when using the switches on the right side doors 3) the power locks don't work, either from the remote, the lock switches (on either driver or front passenger door), or from manually locking the driver door (which would normally lock all doors simultaneously) I've checked the fuses and they all seem to be ok. I doubt this is a problem that I could fix myself but I thought I'd ask around. Does it sound like this is something my mechanic broke, or perhaps just forgot to plug something back in, or what? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks. -Abby
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Replying to: gaskins27 (Apr 22, 2008 3:16 pm) |
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Replying to: gaskins27 (Apr 22, 2008 3:16 pm) I believe this is your cure.........sounds crazy but give it a try and let me know. With key off, turn window wiper speed control to about half way between quick and slow. Turn on wiper switch. Then turn the key to the accessory position and leave it for about 10 seconds. then turn off everything, NOW turn on the key and try the windows and locks. I bet they work......... I can't find my paperwork on this and if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try to find more on it. Good luck, George
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Replying to: georgew1 (Apr 24, 2008 7:02 pm) I forgot to tell you.......turn on your window wiper stitch to "intermittent" BEFORE you set it midway between slow and fast. Then turn the ignition switch to "ACC" for several seconds. Everything off and then try your doors and windows. That should do it. George |
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I've owned my 1998 4 cylinder Honda Accord for a bout 2 1/2 years, and since I got it, it has had this problem which no one can seem to solve. It started off by cutting off when driving my car after it had been sitting for a long period of time (like overnight). When I would push the accelerator the car would shake a little and just cut off (which has put me in some pretty dangerous situations). I found that if I felt the car shake I could prevent it from cutting off by giving it more gas (which works most of the time). Of course it would never do this for the mechanic, because after driving to the mechanic (who is across town), it would have been running for a while, and the car never did this after it had been running for 15 min or more. I finally had to leave my car with my mechanic so that he could see this for himself. He was not exactly sure what it was, but he gave me a tune up, and it was better for about 4 months. Then it started again, after a trip to Bakersfield, which is an hour and a half each way, my maintenance-required light came on. I have taken it to 2 different mechanics that could not diagnose the problem. It has even been hooked up to the computer that reads the codes, but no code shows up. Also now when I start my car I have to immediately hit the gas or else it will cut off. I work as a valet and have noticed that most of the Accords (that are the same body style as mine) have their maintenance lights on too. Is this a common problem amongst 1998-2002 Accords??? I really do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that might not work. Please help!!! 
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I'm getting some pretty high quotes for a timing belt, water pump and tension assembly replacement and wanted to see if this is in line with the current market rates. Also, I'm getting this done in Manhattan which will surely add an unnecessary premium, but I have no choice. Getting an average of $925 for the three parts including labor. Some additional work will be done such as cam seals and something with the crankshaft (?). Does this sound way out of line? Also, my car just hit 100K and runs very well - EXCEPT - when I have to start the car multiple times within a short period (~ 3 times within 3 - 6 hours). No problem the first time, a bit of sputtering during idle on the 2nd time, and the third time, the car will turn over and rpm's will reach ~2000, then slowly sputter down to a stall. The only way I can manage to start the car is if I give gas for a minute or two before it stalls out. Any ideas? |
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Replying to: ilovemyhonda (Apr 28, 2008 10:01 am) |
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I'm new and this is my first posting. I have a 2000 Accord SE (2.3L) with 190,000 km (120,000 miles). There is an annoying clunking in the front end that is most heard at slower to average speeds over bumps. I've done the following over the last couple years and am getting fed up with the noise and the costs of changing things that don't correct the noise. Struts - changed about 2 years ago - reused the springs and there are not cracked, and not sure if the top bushing/plate (or whatever it is) was changed. Swaybar bushings and links were changed about 6 months ago (front and rear). Passenger upper ball joint/control arm was changed about 3 months ago. Front brakes were done about a year ago and are still good. As far as checking play, etc. I can tell you I've had a few mechanics have a quick look at it while doing other work on it and they say the front end is fine. I think most check the front with the wheels hanging and they don't notice anything. I've gotten fed up and done my own checks and find the noise when the tires are on the ground. If I bang my fist at the top sidewall of the driver tire, I hear a definite clunky rattle. My guess is its the wheel bearing. But I'm not fully sure because when I raise the car and spin the wheels, it doesn't feel ratchety, and I only hear slight humming from the pads on the rotors. There is no grinding or humming when driving the car. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
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Replying to: mcola (Apr 29, 2008 6:15 pm) 
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