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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1849 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda Accord

Messages Page 90 of 186

#887 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [yemm] by thegraduate

Aug 01, 2007 (10:23 am)

Replying to: yemm (Aug 01, 2007 8:02 am)
I was pretty darn sure that by 1990, all Accords had EFI.
 
Edmunds agrees. Here's an excerpt from their "Model History" of the Accord, this particular section speaks about the 1990 model. (Skip to the last paragraph).
**********
 Home > Honda > Accord
 
Honda Accord History
  
1990-1993
 
The 1990 Accord was completely revamped, inside and out. The fourth-generation Accord grew in size, power and popularity (in fact, the Accord was the best-selling car in America for three years in a row, 1990-1992.) The hatchback was dropped, leaving a notchback coupe and a four-door sedan as available choices. Wheelbase was increased by nearly 5 inches (now 107.1 inches), and weight went up, though even the heaviest Accord, the EX four-door, still weighed less than 3000 pounds. Styling in and out was very clean and purposeful, with a low beltline, large greenhouse (window area) and slim roof pillars that minimized blind spots. The uncluttered and chiseled appearance of the '90 Accord gave an overall impression of quality and solidity. This notion was confirmed when one simply hopped in the car and shut the door or turned a knob to put on the headlights. Doors shut with a solid "thunk" and switchgear had a precise and satisfying action.
 
In keeping with Honda's logical system of offering a few versions of each car with increasing standard features (as opposed to the American car makers' philosophy of offering a confusing array of options and option packages), three trim levels were available. One could choose a basic DX, a well-equipped LX (which, as before, had power windows/locks/mirrors, cruise control, A/C and a decent stereo cassette all standard) or the top-shelf EX (which added a power moonroof, alloy wheels and 5 more horsepower to an LX).
 
On the mechanical side, carburetors were history, as fuel injection was made standard on all Accords. The new 2.2-liter engine pumped out 125 horsepower in DX and LX trims, and 130 horses in the EX. Other changes included electronic control for the automatic transmission and motorized front shoulder belts (the latter to satisfy government safety requirements).
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The link to this page is here

#888 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [yemm] by lastwraith

Aug 02, 2007 (11:47 pm)

Replying to: yemm (Aug 01, 2007 8:02 am)
You sure you don't have one of these sitting up in your engine right at the top near the windshield?

#889 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [yemm] by corkscrew

Aug 03, 2007 (12:08 pm)

Replying to: yemm (Jul 31, 2007 7:19 am)
Go to this link and click on "overview"
http://religion.p5.org.uk/techauto/mainrelaydefine.html Do these systems apply to you? The main relay controls the fuel pump. If you live in a hot climate where the temperature is 90F/34C and the cabin temp is high, check out the main relay. The two words in your post that caught my attention are "tropical and humidity" Hope this helps

#890 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [corkscrew] by corkscrew

Aug 03, 2007 (1:29 pm)

Replying to: corkscrew (Aug 03, 2007 12:08 pm)
OOPS..under main relay symptoms click on green arrow for carb models. Yes indeed sports fans, some had carburetors.

#891 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [corkscrew] by lastwraith

Aug 04, 2007 (12:00 am)

Replying to: corkscrew (Aug 03, 2007 1:29 pm)
Good page!
 
As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.
 
Anyway, good link at least.

#892 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [yemm] by corkscrew

Aug 04, 2007 (4:08 am)

Replying to: yemm (Jul 31, 2007 7:19 am)
Hello Yemm,
As a frequent traveler I remember seeing carbureted autos in europe in the early 90s. Do you reside outside of the U.S.? In any case, if your mechanic says you have a carbureator look at the fuel pump.
 
Regards
Corkscrew

#893 of 1849 Re: difficult time getting it to start! [lastwraith] by thegraduate

Aug 04, 2007 (8:10 am)

Replying to: lastwraith (Aug 04, 2007 12:00 am)
As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.
 
You are right, no carbs after 1989 for US Accords (the 2.2L was the only engine, and its fuel injected.)
 
But, the 1990-1993 is the fourth generation.

#894 of 1849 1994 Accord Break Light Problem by gallonofwater

Aug 06, 2007 (3:45 pm)

I own a 1994 Honda Accord with a break light/rear light problem. Whether the car is on or not the rear light (dim light not the break light but still the same bulb) stays on and wont turn off unless i disconnect the battery. I checked all of the fuses and the lights still stay on. Does anyone else know what is wrong with me car? Thanks

#895 of 1849 Re: 1994 Accord Break Light Problem [gallonofwater] by elroy5

Aug 06, 2007 (4:35 pm)

Replying to: gallonofwater (Aug 06, 2007 3:45 pm)
I suspect the brake position switch is either broken mis aligned, or needs adjustment. the switch is located either above or below the brake pedal. You may have to remove the lower panel on the dash to find it. Good luck.
 
PS: If the car is an automatic, is it difficult to get the shift position lever out of park? Or more likely in this case, will it move out of park, without pressing the brake pedal. This could confirm some things.

#896 of 1849 1995 Accord Wagon - Time to give it up? by ddunbar

Aug 07, 2007 (3:01 am)

My 1995 Accord Wagon has 106,000 miles on it. I've owned it for a little over 2 years now. The rear brake calipers recently froze and so I just replaced those plus pads and rotors. The tires also need replacement now. The car is a little bouncy and so my mechanic recommends replacing the struts when I get the new tires so as not to damage them. I also have just noticed a leak in the exhaust, and it seems I need a new muffler and pipe between the muffler and catalytic converter. Final bill including the work I just had done on the rear brakes is around $2300. Is it time to sell it off rather than putting more money into the tires/struts/exhaust? Or, am I likely to be past big repair bills for awhile?
 
One more note. The transmission seems to work fine, but my mechanic noticed the car is a bit slow to get into gear. Is this a sign of trouble ahead soon? The transmission fluid looks fine.

Messages Page 90 of 186

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