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#434 of 1859 1995 Honda Accord EX 5 speed manual Ignition Switch
Aug 11, 2006 (4:00 pm)
I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed the door locks unlocking and locking again within seconds. During time I "thought" I noticed the tac and speedometer go to zero. Well I drove home last night, no problems, but coming to work today about a mile from home it died! In trying to restart it would catch but immediely die again. I noticed that holding the switch in the start position the engine would run but when I let it go it would stall again. I got it towed to a Honda mechanic, not dealer and he stated immediately that it was a bad ignition switch. There is a "recall" on 1997-2002 Honda's for faulty ignition switch. I called Honda Customer Service and they stated my VIN number was not covered. The part costs $40 but with labor will cost $160. Anyone else had this problem??
My Accord has been excellent, bought new 12/29/94 and now has 116K. Have had new CV joints, master brake cylinder and brake pads changed during that time.
I also own a 2007 Honda FIT Sport which I love..I should say my wife loves, she won't let me drive it..
#435 of 1859 Re: 1995 Honda Accord EX 5 speed manual Ignition Switch [vcarreras]
Aug 11, 2006 (5:03 pm)
Everything indicates that the problem is your ignition switch based on what you've described; but the only thing that pays my attention is that a faulty ignition switch has nothing to do with your lock system (they are in different circuits....unless you have some security system installed that controls doors and the ignition of the car) and also, I have never seen an ignition switch dying suddenly (usually it starts failing little by little.
I will suggest the following:
- Its known that Honda accord ignition switch had a flaw for models of those years; and also that you could increase the switch to fail if you have too much weight in your key ring. Try cutting the "fat" of your key ring.
- Try using a electrical contact cleaner. There is a post in this forum with the details on how to do it.
- Check your alternator and battery. I have the suspicion that your alternator (and the voltage regulator) has failed and maybe the reason for that strange behavior of your electrical door lock is because of that (maybe some over voltage from the alternator which at the end has damage the ignition switch). If you found that this is what it happen then correct this first before changing anything (most probably there could be some other problems....maybe sensor that has been damaged).
My Accord is the same model but a 95 and with 145k. I have never experience your problem but I have learned a lot of my electrical system due to a problem that so far no mechanic has been able to fix....it is a random problem.
Let us know what you find. Good Luck!!
#436 of 1859 Re: 1995 Honda Accord EX 5 speed manual Ignition Switch [jjv99]
Aug 12, 2006 (6:35 am)
My Accord does have a security system, dealer installed, that when the car is started the doors lock immediately. The car started having problems about a week ago when it took about three tries to start. But the real problem did not start until last Monday when I was washing it and the doors locked. The keys were inside but not in the ignition. I had to get my wifes keys to unlock it. I will have my Honda certified, but not dealer mechanic, check everything out this morning before I pick it up. I will let you know what he finds out. I just hope this is not the beginning of problems. It has been so dependable giving me 28-30mpg back and forth to work.
#437 of 1859 Honda with a Ghost
Aug 12, 2006 (7:02 pm)
1996 Honda Accord LX with some sort of electrical issues. For unknown reasons the doors lock/unlock, lock/unlock, lock/unlock repeatedly for a minute or so at a time. This can happen while driving, parked, etc. The ghost is locking and unlocking my doors to the point of killing my battery and alarm system.
HELP!! Does anyone have any answers?
Aug 12, 2006 (8:14 pm)
How often is the oxygen sensor suppose to be changed? I heard that pre 1985 cars are supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles and pre 1990 every 60,000 and pre 1996 are supposed to be changed every 100,000 miles.
I get terrible gas mileage on my 1994 accord auto ex. Complete tune-up have been done along with a new catalytic converter and exhaust manifold. Are there any problems that can cause bad gas mileage getting 15 miles per gallon. Thanks
#439 of 1859 Re: Honda with a Ghost [dixee]
Aug 13, 2006 (3:27 am)
do you have a key fob? if so, leave it at home. use just your key. if the ghost goes away, you know where it lives (i mean haunts).
if you don't have a key fob, my thinking is there is wire crimping to one of the doors, probably the drivers or front passengers for the lock/unlock, or possibly, there is a defective switch in one of those doors for same.
#440 of 1859 Re: o2 sensor [dridmang]
Aug 13, 2006 (7:48 am)
Check the codes of your computer. Most of the times, the computer will detect any unusual readings from the sensors.
Also take out your spark plug and check its condition ....I know that you have done a complete tune up but you never told us how was the state of the s.plugs. By checking its state (physical state of the electrodes...it is very important to take note of the color that you see) you could tell exactly what is the problem during combustion. Also, include all the details that has been done in your "complete tune up".
Checking the state of the sensor is not difficult; but before concluding that the problem is your O.sensor; you need to check the following (these are the main reason why you could have a high fuel consumption):
- Dirty or clogged air filter
- wrong Ignition timing
- Errors returned by the computer (also known as ECM).
- Prob. in the fuel injection system (most of the times the ECM will detect problems with it also).
- Low tire pressure
- Fuel leak.
- Emission system problems (the O.sensor check is part of this item)
About changing the O.Sensor after certain number of miles it depends if you are rich or not....lol...just kidding. Usually the only components that you need to replace after certain number of miles without checking its state are the ones that if it fails could produce a bigger problem (i.e. timing belt) but the other components usually are changed just by inspection or if it is detected that there is a failure with it. Periodical inspection of your car after a certain number of miles its good (a must for older cars...specially axles, brake lines and engine).
#441 of 1859 Re: Honda with a Ghost [dixee]
Aug 13, 2006 (8:06 am)
The lock/unlock electrical circuit is not that complicated. You have a 2 way switch (lock/unlock positions) that are connected to a relay which at the same time feeds a solenoid or Actuator which is the one that does the actual physical job (all these components are inside your door). Now if you have a security system connected to your door system I'll recommend to disconnect it so you could isolate the problem (and check if the system works). Based on what you said, seems that you have a false electrical contact (which most probably is in your switch because mechanical parts usually fails first than electrical ones) so check that one first...specially the one from the driver; which usually is the most used. Hope you find your ghost
#442 of 1859 Re: Honda with a Ghost [dixee]
Aug 13, 2006 (8:17 am)
Our family has a Honda Accord 1994 with the same problem.
I have just today, removed the door panel from the door that was making all the noise. I found that it is the door lock actuator that is the culprit. I don't know how to fix this actuator. I just know that when I disconnect the plug to it the noise and problem go away. I imagine I will have to purchase another door lock actuator and install it myself.
The problem door we have is the right rear door. When you lock the door it makes a loud whining/buzzing sound. Then when you walk away, it continues, sometimes through the night.
It is very annoying, so for now I'm just unplugging the power to that right rear door lock actuator.
#443 of 1859 Re: 1994 High NOX read [frankiem]
Aug 13, 2006 (8:54 am)
Check the codes in your ECM (computer) after 30 min. of driving. Most of the times, sensors will work fine when engine is cold but could failed when engine gets warm.
Also, provide more details (things that you have change before the test, tune ups, any changes to the EGR system, last time you change your catalityc converter).
Anyway, NOX is produced when combustion temperatures exceed 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. EGR systems and cat.converter are systems created just to reduce the amount of NOX (and other gases) produced....so before changing anything in your EGR or cat.conv. you need to focus if your engine cooling system is working fine. I'll recommend to have somebody else repair it because in most of the states, the money u spent repairing this problem with a state certified mechanic counts against the min. limit they req.. For example in my state, the min. is 350, so if for some reason the mechanic is not able to repair the problem; the state will pass the emission test if you show them the receipt (needs to be from a certified mechanic from the state) of what you have spent. Hope this helps.